Problems Starting the "B"

Recently I have had problems starting the car. Harder turnover with the clutch pedal depressed, easier when it's in neutral. But either way, it takes a good 3 to 4 minutes of trying/stopping, and trying to get the B to start. Once started, tends to want to die with the first depression of the gas pedal, but after warming up, is fine..idles fine, drives fine...Will RE-start fine when warm. The headlights do dim a little when trying to start. The fact that it gets harder to turn with the clutch pedal pushed in concerns me....any ideas?? Thanks.

It is normal for the engine to crank a little slower with the clutch depressed than with the trans in neutral. With the clutch in, you have the small additional friction of the throwout bearing pressing against the pressure plate. This is the same reason that the car will normally lose a hundred rpm or so when idling at a light, if you depress the clutch. I always start mine in neutral.

One possibility for the slow starting might be that the battery is starting to die and is losing its charge. Or the alternator could be going and not charging the battery enough. A fully charged battery should show about 12.5-13 volts, although this is not sufficient, in itself, to conclude that the battery is okay. They can develop a high internal resistance, that only shows up during cranking, when the starter is drawing a high current.

The starter could be on its way out, as well.

If you have another car that you can borrow the battery from, try using it (assuming it is okay and fully charged) to start the B. If it starts normally, then take the battery and have it tested, which requires equipment to put a heavy load on the battery. Most auto parts stores should be able to do this.

It could even be something as simple as corroded battery terminals. Remove and clean the terminals and try it.

If the battery checks out, it may be the alternator that is not charging the battery fully. Check easy stuff first, like the electrical connections and belt tension. The belt should deflect about .5 - .75 inches when pressed at the center of the longest distance between pulleys. Again, an auto parts store should be able to test the alternator.



Good luck.

Paul gives most excellent advice.
In addition, depending where you live, winter is coming on and the temp difference will affect your starting. Given that everything is fine once the car warms up, I would guess you have had chilly mornings lately. (This is where you reply that you live in Hawaii).

Finally had some cool and damp weather in the eastern Kentucky mountains. My bgt would not start 4 days ago after 40 degree temp and two inches of rain arrived. Used to have the same problem with a 1970 volkswagon. Moisture had to be wiped off the inside of disributor cap or let it sit for a day or two, then no problem. Happy to say that bgt cranked fine today. She just wants to run faster or further. Good sign in a car, especially a 71 bgt. May you all b similarly blessed

WD -40 cures this problem of moisture in the cap

What about choke issues? Could that be it, depending on manual or auto choke.

You might also check the connections from the battery to the starter ( both ends) for corrosion. A little corrosion will cause resistance and a resultant drop in voltage to the starter.
Low voltage to the starter will also cause the lower cranking rpm with the clutch depressed to be more noticable. The lower rpm is normal, due to the friction load when the end play in the crankshaft is taken up by the thrust washers.
If you measure the voltage at the large terminal on the starter with a meter while attempting to start, it shouldn't fall below about 9 volts or so, if it does you've got resistance in the circuit somewhere.
H.

I have the same problem with my 73B, my starter runs verry slowly, not enough to start the engin. Its start verry easy when some one push the car. The problem was the - cabel from the battery and its conection to the chassis.

WD-40 is correct for this John. WD-40 will get that moisture out in a New York Second. Did you know that it's one of the best ways to kill wasps? Spray it on those stinging insects and they lose power. I've found that PB Blaster is a better penetrating oil for loosening seized parts. WD-40 is also legendary as a @*$(. Simply spray where needed.

It works so well on wet points, etc. because that's what it was made for. The WD in the name stands for Water Displacer, formula #40. The lubricating properties are a bonus.
Class dismissed ;-)