MGB: putting the b to bed for the winter

i know that there is an artical written on waking a sleeping b but does anyone have a check list on putting one to sleep? my be is going to sleep for the winter except for the suspension rebuild, ujoint, and overdrive repair that i plan to do this winter but what other items should i protect fuel system, electrical, and so on any ideas and sujestions on products would be appreciated thank as always
stephen

Here's what I do.

1. Raise the top. Wash exterior and vacuum interior. Apply fresh coat of "Black Again" to rubber bumpers.
2. Add Sta-Bil to tank, fill it with high-test, and drive the car a few miles to get the oil hot.
3. Return home. Change oil and filter. Remove battery and place on wood shelf. Connect tender.
4. Top off air in tires. Put car on skates. Push in corner of garage.
5. Place a can or two of Damp Rid in the interior. Place printed copy of "Awakening a sleeping MG" on the passenger seat.
6. Cover car. Walk away until spring.

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1268658,1268658#msg-1268658

-Jim

James has some good ideas but ,I am old school you shouldn't put a car to sleep no longer than a mouth especially these cars!, they need to be run year round. I do understand some of live in areas where winters are harsh. Luckily I am not in one of those areas. Still just go out and start the engine up to keep the gas, oil, and engine internals awake.

I don't disagree with the suggestion that our Bs, and LBCs in general, are sensitive to extended periods of non-use. However, I do live in an area with sometimes harsh winters. What's worse is that PA does treat the roads with corrosive chemicals. PENNDOT recently began using a calcium slurry that is actually more corrosive to steel body panels than was regular old road salt. The slurry does admittedly clear the roads of ice and snow in a more expedient manner.

Anyway, the presence of salt, etc. on the roads means driving the B during the winter months is something I will simply refuse to do. My B is 99% rust free and I want to keep it that way. I would suggest that starting the car and running the engine for a few minutes, but not actually driving it, may have mildly adverse effects on the engine's internals.

-Jim

In addition to what Jim "Tall Man" does, I spray chrome, floor pans, trunk, bare metal,
engine bay, carbs, etc. with WD40. I also put dryer sheet in the interior, mothballs
and mouse traps underneath the car.

(click on image to enlarge/hosted offsite)
[URL=http://img239.imageshack.us/i/carcoverzd4.jpg/][/URL]

tedjr

I also spray Stabil fogging oil into the cylinders. Remove the plugs, spray according to instructions and put the plugs back in. I'm old school but I put the car up on jack stands. No sense having the springs and tires under stationary load during very cold temperatures.
So,
Sta-bil in full gas tank
Sta-bil fogging oil in cylinders
Car up on jack stands
Clean, possibly wax car
Regular floor paste wax on all the chrome
Switch battery off with disconnect switch
Or remove battery and maintain with trickle charger
Put the top up, fastened and all snaps snapped.
Go out into garage every night and read it a bedtime story.

thanks for the replys, so i take for granted nobody has had any ill effects from stabil in the tank? and i'll be working on the suspension all winter so she will have to be on jack stands, i'm going to try again this winter and plug in one of those electronic mouse chasers next to the car and hope that that works but i'll also try the moth balls also thanks again
stephen

For additional protection against the mice I placed small cans over the air intakes on the air cleaners and the exhaust pipe. Then I put on the 'mitten'. (Picture is from early point in resto process)