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Mar 10, 2010 08:32:13
danthefitman

Morning guys,

I learned a thing or two last evening.

I learned I have the "larger" starter motor of the two - there's a smaller one too - that came with MGB's. Both Lucas.

We unveiled the metal ring at the base of the starter, to peer inside the mysterious starter and gaze at the Brushes (which aren't) brushes at all - they little blocks that ride on the commutator. I was given Starter 101 and Solenoid 101 and learned plenty.

My starter works but is at least 75% worn out now and since I have the engine out - I'm going to refresh, rectify any existing issues. The Commutator is worn down pretty well - and as described to me, the little brass colored rows on the commutator, should have a slight 'edge' in their Rows - though mine are worn smooth - something that happens. The starter works, but it is noticeably gunky inside...and the Solenoid Copper bolt post that the wires connect to - is loose and stripped. I have considered getting just the "Cap" for the Solenoid, but not going to do that. I am just going to replace the Solenoid. My brother sent me a Solenoid, but it has the wrong flange on it and won't fit the long bolts / holes in the starter itself - (see attached) image. So I can't use it. I'm going to send it back to him, thanks anyway Jeff.

Please let me know what you all think, I would very much appreciate it. Thanks, Dan

Mar 10, 2010 09:19:46
bardan

Get one of the small, light gear reduction starters. They are new, and are not made by the "Prince of Darkness"





Mar 10, 2010 09:25:48
Ralph 7h

Dan,

the starter on your pic was used until late 1972, then the smaller one was introduced. One of the PO's might have swapped it in the past for a second hand exchange unit.
Anyway, there is no mystic on this kind of starters and you can service it yourself, I think.
Try to find the Lindsey Porter book for DIY restoration of the MGB. It will guide you step by step with pics and information, not only for the starter but on the entire details of all mechanical parts of your car.

Ralph

Mar 10, 2010 09:41:12
Redwind

I recommend a new gear reduction starter also. Just make sure you put some shrink wrap on the lower dizzy clamp. British Starters will have at your door lightening fast.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-MGC-Modern-Gear-Reduction-Starter-Motor-MGB-GT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5184b1c221QQitemZ350118593057QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Mar 10, 2010 09:54:23
danthefitman

I'm going to stick with this Starter. I'm going to consider all alternatives. We'll see, keep the comments coming in fellas! Either I'll rebuild it, or have someone rebuild it, probably the former. I did just find out a local rebuilder, ABE Electric - from an MG friend referral - ABE Electric on Hawthorne...for $122 rebuilt with Solenoid replacement too, 1 year warranty. What do you think? Randy's the manager there - and I gave him the number on the side of the Starter for an I.D. I'm going to stay local with my rebuilder too.

Mar 10, 2010 10:30:45
sws615

Probably heresay, but Autozone will sell you a rebuilt unit for about your quote on rebuiding yours....and it's guarenteed for life.

Mar 10, 2010 10:50:21
Steampunk92

Just get it rebuilt! The 'Prince of Darkness' electrics work great as long as they're maintained well, and rebuilt properly; I've had VERY good success with getting my stuff rebuilt by the local auto-electric outfit. I started doing this based upon the advice of John Twist, and I'm not looking back because the original Lucas components are of far higher quality then the new crap you get from Moss & Vicky. Remember, everything back then was DESIGNED to be repaired, so all it needs is a little bit of TLC to get it working perfectly again and keep it working for many years to come. Electrical components have to be the most over-sold part of any classic British car restoration, as people believe that Lucas electrics hide some mysterious dragons that will come out and bite, though this simply isn't the case. Take it apart, clean it, repair it, replace all wear components and you'll never have a problem with it......

Yours Truly,
Sam

Mar 10, 2010 10:53:51
danthefitman

I agree Sam!

Mar 10, 2010 11:13:41
ingoldsb

These starters will last forever if they are rebuilt periodically. VB seems to list more parts than Moss.

My guess is that you will need a brush set (actually carbon blocks) - p/n VB 0-653, the bushing (commutator end) p/n 0-611, the bushing (drive end) p/n 0-6515, the "Bendix" starter drive p/n 0-795. You'll have to look to see what solenoid parts you need. Don't trust my numbers - check them to make sure they match your starter model.

If you don't have the rubber cover (most have been discarded by DPOs) I recommend you get one. It keeps a lot of dust and dirt out of the starter and it will last longer.

Mar 10, 2010 11:20:45
Steampunk92

"If you don't have the rubber cover (most have been discarded by DPOs) I recommend you get one. It keeps a lot of dust and dirt out of the starter and it will last longer."

Ditto, this is really important if you want to keep dirt from getting into your starter. It's a pain to clean and fit, but it's worth it in the end..... Try and find a used one, as they are cheap, and all they need is a good soak in some Simple Green or Marine Clean.

Yours Truly,
Sam

Mar 10, 2010 11:27:45
oily-hands

What Sam & Terry said.- rebuild.

Or always park on a downslope so you can bump it off. :D

Mar 10, 2010 15:14:53
danthefitman

Makes sense Terry. I'm going to price the parts, then see the technical side of it, via a Manual; then decide if I might do the repairs or have a local authority rectify my starter needs. The Starter is worn. Since it's a starter from an earlier car - and I don't think it's been rectified in the past 20 years - she's ready to renew.

I'm pumped to get this module done of my project, of OD Gearbox install, clutches, various bits, crossmembers, seals for engine and gearbox and on and on.

Next up will be Slave Cylinders and check the Master as well. I don't know how to diagnose a Master Cylinder for proper function, besides if it Works or Doesn't work - so that'll be a new learning curve.

And I have two Starter Covers - one that's ripped, one that isn't - which I'll put over my starter in the Red car.

Quote: "
These starters will last forever if they are rebuilt periodically. VB seems to list more parts than Moss.

My guess is that you will need a brush set (actually carbon blocks) - p/n VB 0-653, the bushing (commutator end) p/n 0-611, the bushing (drive end) p/n 0-6515, the "Bendix" starter drive p/n 0-795. You'll have to look to see what solenoid parts you need. Don't trust my numbers - check them to make sure they match your starter model.

If you don't have the rubber cover (most have been discarded by DPOs) I recommend you get one. It keeps a lot of dust and dirt out of the starter and it will last longer."

Mar 10, 2010 21:13:38
golf

Blocks ?? they are the brushes.

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