rack, gaiter, oil question on a 77B

Ok, I DID search this topic and read the posts (even the apparently perennial grease vs gear oil debate:) ) and, well, aaaahhh, let me just run this by you before I do it this weekend. Here is what I plan to do to remedy a cracked, dripping gaiter...

1. remove tie rod ends, noting position, etc. to maintain toe-in.

2. remove old gaiters

3. clean up the area, if the oil on the rack ends looks clean, then I'm going to assume that little or no grit got into the small crack on the gaiter and I will install new gaiters on both sides leaving one loosely attached at the rack-tube end.

4. somehow or other I will then pour oil uphill :eyeroll: using a turkey baster or something until 1/2 pint of gear oil ends up in one of the gaiters (not counting the quart or so that will end up running down my arms onto the shop floor of course)

5. tighten this gaiter clamp and reinstall tie rod ends.

6. somehow, presumably by magic, the oil in this gaiter will work it's way uphill into the rack, completely through it and all the way to the other side :eyeroll:

So have I got this right?
My Haynes manual is useless in this regard so I'm counting on you guys to set me straight.

Thanks,
Ren

You have it right. The oil will flow from side to side, lubricating and flushing the rest of the system on its own. I prefer to oil through the top plate but either method works.

Hey Steve:

Thanks for the quick response.

When you say "I have it right" does that include the part about the quart of oil down the arms onto the floor?:eyeroll:

Thanks,

Ren

That's why I prefer the top cap, but that's just me. :) Harder to get to and more work to do it, but potentially cleaner.

If the 77 is like the 78, the top plate on the rack is very accessible. I did the same procedure you are describing but snugged up clamps at the ends, then just added the oil through the plate or cap, as the man from CA said. You have to remove the inner piece inside the removable plate...that's easily done. Then you don't need the turkey baster and you eliminate the mess.

And as an added benefit you won't have to remember to rush out and buy your wife a new turkey baster...cause you know she's gonna need it in a couple of weeks.

Thats why I prefer grease (not debating your method) ;)
You left out #7
Check toe in.
RS

Jack up one side and put the oil in (turkey baster or whatever, but I used an oil can) and tighten up the clamp around the tie rod - in my case none got gots on the floor and none has leaked out since.

Mine's been a greaser for ten years. All climates....Hot (Florida), very hot (Nevada), very cold (Michigan).

if you jack the car up at the side, not in front, then you don't pour oil up hill. <G>

LOL Mac! You statement is so true and simple that it eluded us all. :)

AAAA

a subject near to my heart. my first event on this board, the gatier had failed , water got up in the rack , i pulled out of a heated garage into 10 F weather and while at 100KPH on the road the water in the rack froze *tighter than old Dick's hatband*

that's fun , steered like a log truck..

i cleaned the rack with carb cleaner and a green pad, then oiled it up with MMO, installed the new rubbers and 75-120 gear oil
while i was at it i corrected the aimof my wheel . you will want to check, reset your toe -in but thats a whole different string , beat to death too...

for your viewing pleasure//

reading threads am I getting it right that some are pumping grease into the rack instead of oil and is it ok to do this I am about tosort this out on 1949 YA 1955 Magenette ZA 1967 Roadster Have got the oil not yet tried it in grease gun as I understand this is the way to go but grase woud be much easier and how much grease would you need to drain off oil

OK, Thanks!

I think I'll try adding oil through the top-plate as it a) makes more sense to me to put the oil where I want it to be and b) I will be pouring oil downhill, something I have demonstrated success at doing before. ;)

My 77B has a cardboard-type splash-guard covering the area above the rack between the front of the engine and the back of the radiator. It looks like if I remove this splash guard, the top of the rack will be easily accessible from the engine compartment, yes?.

Referring to the picture (that I hope is attached):
1. I should remove the cover plate, the shim and gasket (#14 and #12) and then lift out the cylindrical part shown between #12 and #10.
2. put in about 6 fluid ounces of oil
3. drop the cylindrical thing back in place and then the shim, gasket and cover plate

Sound good?

You guys are a great help and I appreciate your patience with my questions.

Ren

Harold, I've never heard of anyone using grease in a YA rack. I would recommend against it for many reasons.

I think that about sums it up Ren. And by the way, welcome to the crowd. We can always fit in another Yank with a white rubber bumper car.

We all just landed here at some point or another...and have benefitted from the collective brain trust.

Pretty soon there will be some newbie posting and asking about the right way to service the steering rack or replace the gaiters, and you'll be a card carrying expert like the rest of us.

How far up is Topsham?

Hi Albert:

Topsham's not too far up, just 30 minutes north of Portland next to Brunswick. I do have a soft spot for the chrome bumper B's , but I think mine looks snazzy, too.

Cheers,

Ren

More by luck than by design, as the wheel is turned from lock to lock the gaiters act as pumps as they reduce and increase in capacity. But you will haave to get new clamps. I tried a cable tie on one. I got it really tight but still it won't withstand the pressure of the oil when changing from full left to full right lock.

thanks for all this help, I am in the middle of the front rebuild my self, glad to run aross this...