When accelerating hard, my gear shift lever makes a rattling sound. Any idea what is loose or happening? Probably an easy fix but it sure is nice having everyone on the forum to ask :)-D
Rattling Gear Shift Lever
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MGB & GT Forum: Rattling Gear Shift Lever
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Check your u-joints, they will cause gearshift rattle if worn.
If it is the walnut knob type simply remove the knob and fill the space above the threaded metal insert with silicone and reinstall. Gets rid of the natural drum effect of the hollowed out knob.
Frank
If it is the walnut knob type simply remove the knob and fill the space above the threaded metal insert with silicone and reinstall. Gets rid of the natural drum effect of the hollowed out knob.
Frank"
X2. Just did this with my wooden shifter and was one of the most rewarding repairs I've done (rewarding = simple + pleasant results)
Three other items:
[list=1]
[*] Plastic bushing 461-110 on the bottom end of the shift-lever.
[*] Plunger 462-440 and spring 329-010 in the upper section of the remote assembly.
[*] Transmission and motor mounts shot.
[/list]
No OD and your knob is plastic?
Open the top, there is a slot on the back (dash board) side of the shifter.
inside is a squirrel nut
Using a pair of right angle needle nose pliers, pop the tips into the slots on the squirrel nut and turn it clock-wise firmly.
Your rattle will go away thoroughly.
If you have the wooden handle or O/D you are on your own, sorry.
There are three bolts, with the spring washers under them, securing the plate over the "pivot ball" cast into the actual shifter. The three bolts came loose on my transmission every so often, and rattling shifter was the result!
I think it was a clever feature designed by MG engineers to signal that maintenance is needed. When this happens, you know you are supposed to:
1. Remove screws securing shifter boot and pull the boot up. (It's easier to remove the knob then separate the boot from the shifter, but not required).
2. Remove three bolts securing plate over shifter "pivot ball," carefully removing spring washers too!
3. Remove the shifter, then clean, and thoroughly grease the two balls (end and pivot) cast into the shifter.
4. Clean and grease the shifter "pivot socket" and the nylon "end socket."
5. Reinstall everything, properly tightening all fasteners, and be amazed at the precise, silky smooth shifts - rattle free!
I'm monitoring this class, and taking some really good notes. Duncan, that's one of the best clues I have run across!
Michael, I know what I am going to do tomorrow!
If it is just the knob rattling, some teflon tape round the shifter thread will also calm rattles.
Sounds like a Sunday project for me too! I have the same issue. Figured it was something simple like needing grease or a bushing. Just hadn't gotten around to asking.
As always, Thank You MG Experience! (tu)
Thanks everyone! I will probably get around to working on it this next week. I'll let you know what I find B-)
There are three bolts, with the spring washers under them, securing the plate over the "pivot ball" cast into the actual shifter. The three bolts came loose on my transmission every so often, and rattling shifter was the result!
I think it was a clever feature designed by MG engineers to signal that maintenance is needed. When this happens, you know you are supposed to:
1. Remove screws securing shifter boot and pull the boot up. (It's easier to remove the knob then separate the boot from the shifter, but not required).
2. Remove three bolts securing plate over shifter "pivot ball," carefully removing spring washers too!
3. Remove the shifter, then clean, and thoroughly grease the two balls (end and pivot) cast into the shifter.
4. Clean and grease the shifter "pivot socket" and the nylon "end socket."
5. Reinstall everything, properly tightening all fasteners, and be amazed at the precise, silky smooth shifts - rattle free!"
John Twist also gave me a good tip, if Duncan's approach doesn't fix the problem: when you have the metal top plate off, peen it gently with a medium sized hammer to ever-so-slightly flatten the curve on top. This will compensate for wear and reduce the internal clearance. It worked well on my high-mileage (216K) GT, but be careful, it is easy to overdo it and get a really stiff shifter.
Mike and Duncan - I owe ya one! I took the top off the plastic knob, and the funny little nut wasn't loose, it was laying in the bottom! It had fallen completely off the threads. Took a bit to get it started, but got it on and solid.
Figured, hey, why not. Took the shifter out of the box, and pretty much dry as a bone. Cleaned and lubed, and shifts like a dream.
Recomend this to everyone!
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