Reinstalling Roadster Windshield

I just finished installing new glass & seal into the frame...(hint, there are people that do that for a living, get them to do it.) I've also got the new frame to body seal inserted into the frame. I've placed the windshield assembly onto the car and am letting it sit for at least 24 hours to help compress the seal before bolting it in. My question is do you really have to apply a sealant under the F2B seal and under the post pads. Won't the new rubber fitted properly provide enough seal protection? If a sealant is needed, which type is best to use? Black Silicone or NP1 one part urethane made by Sonneborn or Black Alex Plus Acrylic Latex Caulk plus silicone or something else?
Pete

I reinstalled mine last year and when I did I used black silicone caulk. it blened in very well with the seal so where it squirted out you could wipe it away without any mes showing. After installing the windshield I took every chance to get it into the rain to see where the inevitable leaks were coming from. When I located them I used a medical syringe filled with more caulk to inject more sealant under the seal. This was extremely effective, during the drive to Stowe, Vt for the British invasion I had NO leaks. Anyone else out there drive through 'Floyd' remember that adventure?

There is a special silicone for windshiles. It is tinner than the regular silicone and will gravitate to the areas that may. The areas that leak are usually around the post or at the top bow. You can get the silicone at any auto parts store or order it from VB.

i'm just finishing installing the F2B seal on the windshield of my '77. Did you have difficulty mashing the new seal down far enough to get the 4 bolts in?
Any tips or suggestions to make this job less dreaded?
thx

Gary, check your e-mail... I outlined the whole deal for you which is too long for this BBS.
Pete

Tom, you must be refering to "flowable silicone". I think that is great for glass to frame seal, but I think it needs a "channel" to trap and contain it, which doesn't exist under F2B seal. I just am not sure which would be better in the long run-NP1 one part urethane sealant (which really is rubbery and very sticky) or black silicone which in time seems to withdraw into itself and releases itself from whatever it has been sticking to. I'll probably end up using the permatex black silicone because cleanup is easier than NP1(which takes lacquer thinner or Xylol for cleanup) Haven't gotten that far due to rain for the last day and a half, so the windsheild is still in the relaxing stage on the car under a tarp.
Pete

Carl, Probably the way that I will go. Floyd was bearing down on us here in West Palm, but turned away just 60 miles to the East of us. A few weeks later we got hit by Irene which snuck up from the south over land. Not much of a storm (75mph winds) but it still snapped in two a beautiful mature Mahogany tree that was in our front yard. The B came thru just fine.
Pete

Just a short tidbit. Moss recommends a liquid soap solution to lube seals during installation. A local glass shop who has experience with roadster windshields recommends using spray silicone instead soapy water . I tried it and it was easier and much neater than soap.
Pete

Straight liquid dishwasher soap works great. It's just as slick when it's dry as when it's wet and washes away clean, never any residue. As for sealing along the bottom: I used 3M black strip caulk. Put it down where the rubber was going to contact, installed the w/s frame, and removed the excess with a toothpick and a rag. You can't tell I even used a sealant looking at it.

John, I've never heard of black strip caulk. Is it a rope caulk only black? Sounds like the perfect way to do the sealing.
Pete

Pep Boys sells NicSond Ribbon Sealer, which is the same stuff. It is sold as a square bead coil with the layers separated by wax paper. It\'s probably all you need to seal against leaks and protect the window framing from rust. After installation you can apply a liquid sealer, if you\'re a perfectionist.

Before installing the windshield make sure you\'ve got a straight window opening by measuring the diagonals

It's pretty much what Vernon described. Any brand will do, I just happened to have 3M which is available at most parts stores.

I have a box of that stuff that I wondered what to do with; it was got for the fenders to wells.