I had planned on removal of this switch and soldering it so that I could restore dash lights, but ran out of time this weekend. Now in planning this for the future I begin to wonder if I need to remove the dash to access this dimming switch. I guess I concluded that if I removed the console I could get my hand up to the switch, remove the wires, and take out the switch to complete soldering operations and then reinstall. Perhaps it's not that easy and the detailed instructions on dashboard removal in the Library will have to gollowed. What think ye folks?
Jim
removal of dashlight reostat
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MG Midget Forum: removal of dashlight reostat
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I would remove the dash and clean all of the connectors if you haven't already. It took me 15 minutes or so to remove my dash and gauges. Anyway, if you can solder the wires together w/o, give it a shot.
Matt:
Fifteen minutes sounds really fast. As I read how dash removal on the MGB is accomplished in the Library, it sounds complicated and potentially more frustrating than engine removal, e.g. must be careful of temperature guage wires, label everything, choke control is disconnected at carburator, ground connections, etc. Am I missing something by following those directions? Do you have any simpler instructions for the Midget? Any hints would be appreciated as I'm tired of not knowing my speed when I'm driving at night and worry about missing some important data.
Thanks,
Jim
Don't waste your time on removing the dash when you don't have to, If the dash lights are not working turn the rheostat a few times (each way) and the dash light should light up, if not remove the speedometer, remove the wires at the rheostat and bypass the switch,
X2 on the speedo.............the rheostat can then be reached through the resultant hole in the dash. It can be a bit of a SOB to get the speedo out tho', because the defroster hose makes it hard to reach the knurled nuts that secure the gauge if you have large hands.
# 3 on wiring together. If remember correct the rheostat has spade connections on it. 2 on each terminal just move wire to same terminal as other wire. Dash lights are barely bright enough for me with mine bypassed. Maurice
Matt:
Fifteen minutes sounds really fast. As I read how dash removal on the MGB is accomplished in the Library, it sounds complicated and potentially more frustrating than engine removal, e.g. must be careful of temperature guage wires, label everything, choke control is disconnected at carburator, ground connections, etc. Am I missing something by following those directions? Do you have any simpler instructions for the Midget? Any hints would be appreciated as I'm tired of not knowing my speed when I'm driving at night and worry about missing some important data.
Thanks,
Jim"
Jim, I apologize. I may have embellished a bit. I menat that if you want to get a good fix, take the time to take a part and clean all contacts and address everything. The choke cable wasn't too bad, the temp pipes are a pain though, now that I think about it. I lose track of time sometimes. I get in a "Midget time warp" and lose all concept of time. Sorry, for the exaggeration. :beer:
Matt:
Not a problem. Were I not so afraid I might screw something up by removing the dash, I would probably lose myself in such a project and conclude it to be a fifteen minute effort. I guess that's a big concern with me creating more damage by "restoring" my car.
Am I going to be able to see anything with my sixty-five year old eyes when I get these dash lights fixed? If not, is there an upgrade I could complete that might improve the dash visibility at night?
Jim
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