Spridget Tech Talk (MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite)
Pulled the head for gasket issue but now I want to clean all the head stud threads(top and bottom)
Whats the favorite way to remove and replace the studs? I always used the double nut method but maybe there is new tecnology!!!! When replacing the studs how does one know when they are tight? Is there a torque spec for studs?
Not real happy with a blown head gasket. It was over 60 here in PA today and my midget is sick!!!
Grumpy as usual
Toby
While anyone is reading along here hows about some information on SEALING the head studs back in.
Lock tite, silicone, permatex of some sort, anything????
Stud installation....
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?3,1716414,1716414#msg-1716414
As Rick's site says- just run the studs down, no torque required.
I used to double-nut to get them out but just got a stud remover from Harbor Freight and now they come out much quicker.
Obviously it is REQUIRED AND IMPORTANT to clean all of the stud threads when they are out!! and it is good to lube them (I use some grease) when you put them back together.
BillM
Google "studs sockets" you find they are relatively cheap set of stud sockets out there, the set I had for 20+ years come with 4 stud sockets, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, and 7/16, cost uner $20 bucks when I bought mine, a real nice tool to have for LBC engine, always make sure with a stud socket you get them down on the unthreaded shoulders, otherwise you flatten out the threads, rendering the stud useless.
Clean them real well and resist using a cheap tap or die to clean the threads as they tend to remove meat in the wrong places. Get actual thread chasers or solvent/lightly blast.
The studs should not require any sealant but it has been suggested by many sources that putting a little permatex gasket sealant on the studs that go into the water jacket is a good idea. I put a drop or three of motor oil on the studs in the blind holes.
Anything ought to work since the bottom end of the studs are supposed to be screwed all the way into the block and are not *supposed* to turn while you torque the nuts (so a coating *shouldn't* affect the torque value). If they don't go in by hand (no tool) you have a boogered thread somewhere and should rectify it.
I believe anti sieze would be better than oil. Does coolant actually weep up a stud in the jacket?
Agreed and yes. But you have a gasket so it doesn't go anywhere troubling, just makes a mess and makes the stud much harder to get out for a rebuild.
So its like going to to different doctors....they never agree !!
Do we seal head studs or not? Hey HAP are you listening? As a racer and a professional engine rebuilder.....Do YOU seal head studs into the block when you build an engine for a customer?
Any confidential answers can be PMed to me to protect the inocent.
Studless in PA
Toby
Hap's answers are in the thread I mentioned in post #3. :)
Rick
Arp makes a special lube that comes with there hardware
You can use 30w motor oil but it gets a differant torque spec... Which comes in the instal instruction
Snug is finger tight
The ARP hardware has to be broken in aka stretched... This is done be torqueing the hardware to spec 3 times
Prop