MGB: Replaced clutch master and slave-not much resistance

80MGB...i opted to replace my master and slave clutch cylinder when the clutch started failing a few weeks ago (new clutch about a year ago). Finally did it this weekend. Got new stuff from Vic Brit. The only thing I DID NOT replace was the short hose to the slave (that hose looks like a bugger to get a wrench on). It is showing some cracks but no obvious leaks.
I used some Valvoline DOT 3-4 brake hydraulic fluid, and had the wife help bleed it last night. After pushing through 2-3 ounces of fluid, I'm getting very little resistance and the slave is not moving very much. There are no leaks

So, do I need to replace the short hose to the slave? Maybe it's giving enough now that the slave is good. And there are two ports on the slave, one for the bleed valve and one for the hose. The bleed valve came threaded into the end of the cylinder but I moved it to the side position where my original had been located. I wouldn't think that would make a difference??

Any thoughts? Thanks! We're finally getting some warm weather back here in the NW and I'd like to get it back on the road.

I bet you still have air bubbles in the system.

You put the bleed valve in the right place. If that hose is showing signs of cracking, that could certainly be your problem, in addition to what Richard said. I had to push the push rod into the slave with bleeder open to get the rest of the air out.

Replacing Clutch Slave Cyl hoses and bleeding

HOSE
replace the hose. takes about 20 min, not counting jacking up the car and rigging jack stands.

1) remove the distributor. do so by not loosening the clamp on the dist body, so you won't loose timing when you piut it back. about 5 min.

2) then reach down and remove the hard line connection from the fixed end of the hose. 1/2" wrench. use a 15/16 or 24mm socket to undo the nut that holds the upper end of the hose to the mount tab. it should not be real tight.

3) wiggle the hose loose, and unscrew it from the cylinder.

you cannot undo the hose from the cylinder without freeing the other end. you cannot easily free the other end without coming down from the top (no room to swing a wrench). you can't easily do that with the distributor in the way.

BLEED
There are two ports on the cylinder. one is for the bleed valve one for the hose.

There are two ways to bleed the thing and the procedure you use will determine which port the bleed valve needs to use.

1) the conventional "pump the pedal" procedure requires two people and the valve needs to be in the uppermost port.

2) the other procedure, what I call "push bleed" uses a syringe or similar to inject fluid into the bleed valve in the lower port and filling the cylinder, the line, and starting to fill the MC. this requires only one person. You can make your own lashup with a 60 cc veterinarian syringe and plastic tubing or you can find something like it at auto parts stores.

most of the cylinders I've seen have the bleed valve already in the lower port (for the push bleed procedure) which is why many assume it is in the wrong port.

Once Mac explained his "push bleed" system I tried it and have never looked back. I'll try to find the picture of the stuff I found at the parts store.

Thanks again Mac!!!

Yep, that is THE way to do it!

Great tips especially for changing the hose which I suspect is causing some of the problems.

Great advice, especially on the hose change and push bleed technique.
Gives me hope I'll be on road again in a day or two...and save me from waking up the wife at 10:30 to pump the pedal, so to speak.

I bought the bleeder/vac system from Harbor Freight (about 25 bucks) and basically pulled the fluid through the system. Once I had a steady flow, a couple of push-bleeds with my son on the pedal gave me great results. I did replace the flexible hose, they fail from the inside and can collapse from the pressure.