restoration observation

I'm about to put my car on a rotisserie i have about 3/4 done; took tomorrow off to finish it. Thought i'd check out some pics of how others hooked up their cars to them to validate my plan to hook the rear bumper mount plates isn't a dumb idea... not a single rubber bumper car pictured in the 30 or so pics i found. Every one -- at least every one showing how the rear end was attached -- was a chrome bumper car. Seems no one restores rubber bumper cars.

I'll take a closer look after i remove the fuel tank, but for now I'm thinking the bumper mount must tie to the frame rail so should be a good spot to bolt it up.

I rotated our 75 R/B to clean up the under side- see the picture below.

I did it on the cheap in my mums substantial brick built garage - 2"x4"s from the roof beams to the floor - did the trick ok - no probs - just fabricate a unit to bolt to the appropriate bumper mount holes at the rear (and front)- you'll spot the most suitable when you get the bumper off.

Remember that BALANCE is important too. What is on or in the car when it goes on the "spit" will make a difference. If it is off too much one way or another it will be difficult to rotate safely.

Remove everything that you can before hooking it up. No suspension, no cross member, no interior, no windshield, and of course no engine or transmission

Jack

Absolutely agree - when I rotated the shell it was clear of everthing bar the wiring harness - and well secured before being worked on.

rficalora Wrote:

I would be nervous bolting to just the valence. However, the bare shell is relatively light. The guesses around here were about 500 pounds. so you are supporting 250 pounds on the back. With a number of fasteners, even small ones, it can be well distributed over the valence. The pivot point I used is about 3" below the flange on the trunk, see picture, it is a little high as it tends to be bottom heavy, and I don't have floor boards yet. I would drop it about 1/2" if I had to do it again.