sebring valences

Has anyone done these in steel or converted your rear valence to flush fit? Got any photos/recommendations/tips?

Tom,
Some cars have done that. You can see them at Britishv8.org
steve

I have an aluminum front and rear valence. Sorry I don't have a digital camera to take a shot.

The front one I bought from Targett Motor Sports; the rear one from Ebay UK.

The rear one is an amateur make, and will need some fudging to make it work.

The front one is very professionally made, with vent tubes going to the front brakes for cooling.

mine is the fibreglass kind but i blended it in rather than leave the joint lines

I have an ally front and fibreglass rear
Regards
Tony

Mine has a fibreglass front and rear although I may chamge the front soon to an alloy one from MG Motorsport in the UK. My rear isn't fully smoothed in at the moment although I may change this also in the near future to get closer to how the originals looked

My rear is all steel - just a stock panel fudged to fit flush. The bits below the taillights and in the bumper recess are hand fabbed. Sorry - no pics on my laptop to post!

Thanks for all the pics. Nice work-the variety is helpful/insightful

Neil, that is a great looking ride - I had your pic rotating through my screensavers. Close to the look I'm going for.

Jeff - your approach is what I was thinking of. It looks sorta straightforward with a little fabbing. Any hidden surprises or things that were unusually tricky or things I should know/think about before I start carving up my car?

Keep in mind that the weld seam takes on a different profile. The entire back panel will not be smooth form top to bottom unless you cut the upper sheetmetal loose from the body when you weld the valence to it. Its a LOT of work to get the panel to make the smooth curve from top to bottom, or a LOT of body filler. Once you mock up the new panel in place, you'll see what I mean about the profile.

Jeff,

did you "double skin" going over the top of your original or cut the valence at the bumper line and pull it out/fill in the gaps? From your description, sounds like just pulling it out without the mods gives a bit of a "V" shape? Do I understand that if you cut the sheet steel from the support you can roll it/soften the curve a little - same with the valence panel.

Would you do it again or go with glass?

I'm doing a sebring-esque conversion on mine now. I got a rear fiberglass valence from www.morspeedperformance.com. I opted for the custome one he makes with the rear license plate cutout.

As for the front...I got a fiberglass one from Moss. Warning: these are meant to be used with sebring fender flares (which isn't stated anywhere) and the curve is way, way too wide.