signals working now, have question update, thanks

I bought that good guide to the MGB electronics everyone recommends and after reading it a bit decided to check the hazard switch. Well it was bad. So, I rebuilt it and got the hazards to work as well as the signals. Now I still don't have brake lights and was wondering, since the signals are now working does that mean I don't need to worry about the fuse box since it must be working now? If so what are the most common causes of brake light failure. I was going to check the switch by the brake pedal itself first, good idea? Then what would be the next couple steps.
Thanks
B

clean and put dielectric grease on all connections encluding the bulb sockets they tend to corode also check the connections t the fuse box again clean and grease i used a dremel tool with a wire brush on low speed to clean mine andno more problem i would also check the switch and clean the connections on it hope this helps
stephen

Check the bullet connectors in the boot area.

Clifton

And the ground in the boot area. a clump of grounds tied together on rear by the latch. everything else you said and what you have been told should do the trick.

Can I just replace all those darn bullet connectors with new ones that aren't bullet connectors. I figure as long as they are new and are covered so no metal could accidentally ground that any connector could work in place of those.

You could replace them all but I think that's unnecessary. Like any connection, they have to be clean and rust-free to work properly. Sure they're a bit of an "old design" but connected properly, they'll work as well as any other.

Good advice on where to start with your brake light issue. I'm not familiar with the later brake light switch (my experience is with the unboosted, dual MC design with the brake light switch in the pedal box). Based on that, I'm sure the later brake light switch must have some kind of adjustment to it. Another area to check.

simon is rite you could but why not just clean and grease all of the connectons and you shouldn't have any more problems the dielectric grease will help give you a better connection and if you have a dremel tool or equivalent with a small wire wheel cleaning the connection isn't dificult nor does it cost much good luck and keep us posted on your outcome
stephen

Brian, don't be mislead on the subject of bullet connectors by folks who think bashing Lucas at every turn shows how much they know about Brit cars. They are almost never the problem. The bullet itself is as good a connector as anything a hobbyist could use to replace it. The snap connectors that join the bullets together are a weaker point, especially in the engine room where they are subjected to heat/cold/heat/cold. They can get brittle and break inside.

If you are finding that the snaps are brittle and broken then just buy new ones and replace them. Then you are good to good for another 30 years. Grease the bullets when you put them in if you want, some guys think that is the cure for all ills. I think it is a bit of overkill but it won't hurt. Dielectric grease will not give you a better connection, the opposite is true. A dielectric does not conduct, in this case its only purpose is to help keep corrosion from the contact.

Check the switch at the pedal box first.

I would also check the toothed nuts that hold the rear lamp assembly to the car, that is where the brake light bulbs gettheir ground. Back the nuts off then snug them back up. The little teeth bite into the body metal to ground. This assembly can fool you since the tailight has its own ground wire.

thanks again for the help. All electronics are working now, brakes, hazzards, signals, wouldn't have done it without all the great advise.
Thanks again
B

Good news, Brian. Now go for a drive to celebrate!