I've read the multiple archived threads on this until I'm confused. (It's easily done.) Will a small hole drilled at the bottom of the crack stop it from spreading?
stopping the crack of doom
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MGB & GT Forum: stopping the crack of doom
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Did you read this article in the library
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/crack-of-doom.html
Thank-you. I did read the article. I just wondered if the hole would hold it if no further repairs were made. It seems quite a few members are driving around with the cracks. Have they all drill-stopped them or do they leave them alone? Doesn't water get into the door via the crack?
At a minimum, drill stop and weld closed, but the best method is welding in a backing plate.
well drilling a hole in my cymbals on my drum kit dosn't stop cracks,anyone help with that one! (inserts smily if I knew how)
:)? Just type : [colon] and then ) [close parentheses]. :)
You'll have to ask Brian Bennett about the cymbals, Les. :)
I've always wondered if drilling the crack and then attaching a plate to the back of the door skin using JB weld or epoxy would do the trick. I would think that a little filler and some well feathered touch up paint would make it almost undetectable, and you wouldn't have to worry about the heat of welding.
I use a small piece of white masking tape (white car) to cover my crack. So to speak.
When you cover your white crack with white tape does it show skid marks? hehehe
Doesn't that hurt like H** when you remove that White tape from your crack?
Just thought it would be a good time to throw my 2 cents in about the crack of doom. Ever notice that is almost always a roadster door that cracks and not a GT? The reason is: the wind wing is not adjusted right.....I know, I know, but before you blow me off read on a little further.
The wing is not straight (parallel with the cars center line). With the top down, roll up the door windows and then look at them from the rear of the car....goofy huh? Not like that on a GT. Most (all) MGB roadsters are pushed further out of killter when the top of the wing is pressing against the windshield pillar. I have fiddled with whatever was needed to make the wing straight (elongating holes, etc.) on the car's centerline and having the same curve as the windshield pillar so it won't bind when you slam the door. I have made alloy doors for my race car and never had a crack when using this method. This takes a lot of patience......but for me it is worth it when I look at the alignment of the wings with the top down (not to mention never having to fix the crack).
Just my 2 cents.
Just rename it the 'crack of charm'. How bad can it get?
Mike
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