Symtoms

What is the sympton for:
a bad distributor igniton condensor,
a bad coil,
and valves out of adjustment?

My point's dwell angle reads 56 degrees .Is this OK? Maual says 60 degrees.

Thanks,

Larry- Taken one at a time...1. Bad condensor - No Fire 2. Bad Coil - No Fire 3. Valves out of adjustment - Lack of power, depending on exactly how out of adjustment they are.
Your dwell angle is OK.

Bad condenser might work well up to 2500 rpm and then crap out causing significant miss. Bad coil might cause weak spark and incomplete combustion - exhaust will smell rlike unburnt gasoline. Back up your dwell angle test with the feeler gauge test on the points. What symptoms are you seeing? Basil

To add to above...

Bad condensor....either side of the points contact surface have a crater or a metal buidup.

Bad coil,...can have hot starting problems.

Loose valves ... noisy and retarded opening early closing cam timing, possible breakage of the valve/rocker/pushrod/follower system by hammering.

Tight valves...as they get tighter they won't seat and engine will start to miss, if you don't pick this up, the valve will burn out.

Runs crappy !

These are the symptoms from a previous post. Just trying to gather as much info as I can.


My 73 B I bought to restore, is at the point where I could drive it if it wouldn't lose power and stall after driving or idling for a few minutes. I changed the fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, coil wire, and sparkplug wires but it stilll stalls. I still need to change the points and condensor. I also need to send it to Jeff to have the distributor rebuilt because the advance does not work but I don't think this is the problem with the stalling and lack of power.

These are the symptoms: The car starts fine and idles fine at around 900 rpm. If I drive it down my driveway and try to drive it back up it doesn't have the power to make it and it bogs down and stalls. If I turn the car off and back on for after only a few seconds it seems to regain enough power to make it up the driveway which is pretty steep. Turning the car off and turning it back on seems to give it a bit of life. It may be a little premature to ask these questions without doing a complete tuneup but I just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas for a quick fix. Although nothing seems like a quick fix on this car.

Thanks,

Check your gas tank vent.

Where is the gas tank vent? I changed condensor. Runs the same. Can rev up to 3000 rpm in neutral (don't want to try any higher) sounds strong for a 15 seconds then bogs down no power and even stalls. I'm leaning towards fuel issue. Can fuel pump work but not produce enough pressure? I could test this. Maybe crud in lines? I guess I'll finish tune up (adjust valves) then trace fuel flow if that doesn't help.

90% of all running problems are distributor related. 90% is a for sure thing.

My sons car did this, exact;y. The advance mechanism was gooped up. When cleaned and a set of springs replaced the car ran 100% The car was a 69 Chevelle. He was sure it was the carb. He is 22 and knows everything. I did show him how to diagnose distributor issues. Now he knows more.

Either learn to fix it yourself or send the dizzy to Jeff. To continue from here you need to know if you have the right dizzy and have it work 100%. It makes a big difference.

Chances are the coil, points and condenser are ok. Get a set of points just in case. You should always carry a set in the glove box.

Larry,

I think you are right. I'll sent the dizzy to Jeff first and rule that out. I've got plenty of things to work on in the mean time. Per Jeff ( I sent him a picture) the dizzy is from a 68 my car is a 73. Right off the bat something is screwy,

Thanks,

Larry

The fact that it improves when you let it rest would indicate a lack of fuel or condensor coil going out. I'd do what Clay suggested by just taking the gas cap off and seeing how it ran that way. If no improvement, do a solid tune-up.
And yes, a dieing fuel pump could have that symptom.

It might be a weak fuel pump to. When turning the ignition on for restarting, the pump primes the line until sufficient presure is reached. Then it stops pumping. Presure drops when driving and if the points of the pump are not ok, it will not start pumping again on drop of presure as designed.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carbs and put in a tee-adaptor with a presure gauge and recheck down and up your driveway.

Is it blowing black smoke.?

Is the choke jammed on?

No black smoke and choke is open. I ordered a fuel pump tester. I think I'll test fuel pump and see if there is pressure as I rev engine per Ralphs suggestion. Pressure should be around 3 psi? Will also get dizzy rebuilt.

I'll contribute...bad ground pigtail in the distributor. will seem to run fine until you put load on it.

Could be a plugged exhaust, too. Any dents, crimps, or mice nests in the exhaust?

Ren

Pump output volume .

Has new exhaust so that is not problem. Pump output could be problem. I am going to check with fuel pump gauge. I have one on order. I'll keep you all posted when I figure this out.

SU's? Checked for oil in dampers? How are air filters?

How do plugs look?

Have Weber Carb and took air cleaner off for test so I don't think that is the problem.

The float height in the Weber is a really common problem. It would allow you to "run out of gas" if the float bowl doesn't hold enough fuel.

If the mechanical advance is not working, your car will run worse at higher rpms until it just falls flat on its face at 3000. A vacuum leak from the vac advance would make things even worse. I'm here for you when you're ready!
Jeff

Here is my latest update. Checked the fuel flow by letting gas run into a coffee can. No bubbles. Can filled up in a few seconds so I don't think it is the fuel pump. Checked compression: No 1 cylinder 130 psi 2-140 3-150 4-135. Should I be concerned?

I packed up my distributor and am sending to Jeff at Advanced Distributors tomorrow. After I get it back and install it, if the car still runs crappy I'll assume it is the carb. I'll check my valve adjustment too...havn't done that yet.

Better not to fiddle anymore until the dizzy comes back.

Don't touch the valves yet.

Just put that in and time it and see if problem persists.

If you have recessed valves and they are losing all clearance after a brief warm up, best to find that out separately.

If it is cured by the dizzy, then by all means do the valves anyway then.

Nuthin' worse than doing a few things together and curing it, but not knowing what the exact rpoblem was.