MGB: The Fundamentals of the Weber 32/36 Carb, electric choke...

I have a newly acquired 77 B with a 32/36 Weber Carb, twice inlets. The choke is positioned parallel to the valve cover, and it is the electric choke variety. I realize there's a few 32/36's: I don't know which specific 32/36 I have, yet. Does anyone know which one of the three listed below, I would have? I went to this site for Weber : http://www.webernorthamerica.com/weber_carburetor_schematics.html (and haven't paged through the site very much). I did take a quick peek at the schematics though. A bit greek to me thus far.

1. 32/36 DFEV
2. 32/ 36 DGAV/EV
3. 32/36 DGV

I have fiddled around with the mixture screw - below the idle screw, and it only made the car run badly. I turned the screw all the way in until it stopped, then backed it out from there. I had the idle screw set too high for idle, so I backed it down. It wouldn't start for a while, then I got it started, after fiddling around with the mixture screw - only the plugs became so badly fouled that I need to replace them now. It is running very rich. That's all I know. Anyone know of a good how-to text manual with images to help me out? I understand that the mixture screw works this way: Clockwise: Lean / Anti-clockwise: Rich

I haven't checked the floats yet - though I know that's one thing I can do - but haven't yet. I've never taken partially apart this carb, so I am a bit apprehensive until I do this new task. :eyepop:

Dan you have the DGA/EV. Adjustment guide on 2nd link. Good luck.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Weber_Carburetors_s/2.htm
http://www.roadlessgear.com/html/techarticles/weber/#bench%20assy

Edited to include 2nd link.

Dan try these links.
http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm

http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/TuneWeber.html

Don't forget about power. Are you getting good clean spark? Timing right?

When you fiddle with the idle adjustment screw, the engine must be a full operating temp. Lean it up until it slows, back it out till it slows again, and then go 1/2 way back in. That is it for mixture adjustment.

You jets may be worn or something like that. I would adjust the idle mixture note above first and then go to the timing, spark, etc before tearing the carb down.

Download this PDF and save.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf





Dan, the fast idle adjustment is for setting the choke idle. Don't play with it if not necessary.

SEE POST BELOW...

[quote=danthefitman]
[quote=grn78rd]
Don't forget about power. Are you getting good clean spark? Timing right?

When you fiddle with the idle adjustment screw, the engine must be a full operating temp. Lean it up until it slows, back it out till it slows again, and then go 1/2 way back in. That is it for mixture adjustment.

Your jets may be worn or something like that. I would adjust the idle mixture note above first and then go to the timing, spark, etc before tearing the carb down.[/quote]

Jon: I agree - I though haven't adjusted the distributor postion yet, as it relates to timing/spark. My distributor has the Pertronix ignition, though with the factory Coil. I have not checked timing, (and have only done it once - though I need to do this with my once used Timing Light). I am going to remove the distributor and examine it, to do a basic check/overview as well. And I plan to determine spark/timing before I go tearing into the Weber. I bet my timing is way off - and distributor, coil config is not right either.

[hr]
Question[/b], When I changed the "factory" coil in my 79 to the Pertronix Coil - it went from Ballasted to non-ballast Coil, I know that much. What about Voltage of coil? Are both the factory coil and the Pertronix Coil the same voltage? Ever since I changed to the Pertronix Coil/distributor insert in my 79, she runs like a dream (twin SU's)...

[b]Question[/b]: With the factory coil and the Pertronix insert in the distributor in the 77 - will that mis-matched pair cause issues/problems?

I'm experiencing...'the engine is still running' issues, [b]when I turn off the key to the OFF position, via the ignition[/b]...then it shuts off or sometimes it doesn't (so I have to put it in gear and let off the clutch).

When I had this same issue with my 79 when I made the transition from points/condensor/factory coil to Pertronix Coil, Pertronix Insert, into my existing Distributor - my 79 did the exact same thing. Since I didn't know what to do about it, I took it over to my local shop - and the mechanic saw a loose wire with a connector on it, right near the coil - so he unplugged one of the wires I had on there - and switched connections with the loose wire - the "run engine running issue after the key is turned to the OFF position, stopped happened, right away. [b]It wasn't dieseling - just the engine was running normally - though the [color=#FF0000]IGNITION LIGHT[/color] comes on in the off position, but...but the engine is still running.[/b]


[b]The mechanic told me at the time what he did - but he and I have forgotten since.[/b]

[color=#FF0000][b]Anybody know how to rectify this issue? Note: I've looked at my 79 coil wire configuration and then back at the 77. I've placed spade connectors on the loose wires from the old ballast wire hookup on the 77 to the coil, but nothing changed, (the engine still continues to run, even when I turn the key to the OFF position).[/quote][/color]

Dan, I also recommend for your sanity that you position the carb on the manifold so that the throttle linkage is facing to frontside of car, choke facing left fender instead of facing the valve cover. It makes adjusting the settings a lot easier without burnt knuckles. I call it the "reversed position" just because it is reversed now from where I used to have it. (The previous pictures of the carb and manifold on the bench was the old mounting position. ) I now have it turned around. See new pictures:

Do not rush to take the carb apart. Try all the settings first, spray it with Gumout carb cleaner. These carbs are fairly bullet proof. My choke is a water choke (rare breed) so it will look different from yours because it has heater hose running into it and out of it. Anyway with the choke facing fender you can adjust everything with a screwdriver. When I had it the other way with choke next to valve cover I had to use a small open end wrench to set the idle speed, and burnt my knuckles on the header trying to adjust the mixture with a screwdriver.

Yo guys, Awesome input - again like always - I've discovery info that I didn't know existed...as if a light bulb clicked "ON" in my brain. I have a fellow MG enthusiast stopping by later this week - to guide me through the diagnostics of this Weber.

Firstly - we'll remove it - examine the internals, get it calibrated correctly, then switch the position so I don't cook my hands like yesterday, trying to move that freak'n idle screw - OMG - it was literally impossible! Especially as she was rattle'n and runn'n rough - and popp'n out of the carb, (right in my ear!). Man, if that's be'n a grease-monkey, I just graduated to the 2nd grade. :eyepop: I gotta get some new plugs and get out my timing light - so we can determine spark/timing as well.

I know just enough now to be dangerous! :hot:

You will be so happy after you switch the carb's position.

[quote=comart45]
You will be so happy after you switch the carb's position.[/quote]

Peter: Golden advice, Golden! :beer:

Dan,

You talked a lot about the Pertronix insert that is in the distributer. Had one installed on mine back when I was trying to run a very rich ZS carb. However, even though the stock coil I had in the car was brand new, it apparently is not a "hot" enough coil to match up with the Pertronix unit you have in the car. I had a different coil installed out of a Porsche that my mechanic had available. More spark to the plug to help with the total burn.

I think you are on to something with regard to the coil.

Peter

I am struggling to comprehend how your water choke works connected to the heater hose.
My take is that the water going thru the choke needs to be hot to disengage said choke.
Therefore if you leave heater turned off the choke will never heat up.
If you turn off heater then it will cool down and reengage.
Am I missing something fundamental here?

Dan,

I did a Pertronix upgrade earlier in the year. The Pertronix Ignitor needs a 3 ohm coil to run properly. The stock coil, I believe, was a 1.5 ohm. I've tried to use the Pertronx Flame Thrower 3 ohm coil, but had two bad ones back-to-back. I think there is a bad run of these out there, or QC went downhill. I ended up using a 3 ohm Lucas Sport Coil (Model DBL105)

There are other things to take into account to on the 1977.

Here are some threads I started with my journey of installing a Petronix on my car.

Thread 1[/b]

[b]Thread 2

The second thread shows how I hooked it up.. the problems I was having all had to do with the bad coil.. after the Lucas coil went it, the car ran smoothly.

Hope this gives you some info.. you can always call me with questions (you have my number I think).

John