MGB: Tips and tools for pulling my 77 stock Steering wheel ! ?

Hey guys,

I don't have access to the correct puller, hence my post.

I borrowed a steering wheel puller from my neighbor, (pictured...same exact one) - and the fingers are not long enough with included bolts to extend out enough - for the bolts to affix through the fingers, then to a metal strip cross the back of the wheel, with bolts running through, to leverage the wheel off the splines. As I would have to affix a metal piece cross the back of the wheel - through to the holes (in the made up plate) so I could run the bolts through the holes - and affix nuts to the bolts. If I had a larger version of the image show - I could make a metal strip - with holes and run the bolts through - and affix nuts.

About 8 years ago - my local shop loosened my 79 stock steering wheel with a larger puller and it worked lickity-split, though now they don't have that one any longer! Darn it! I was out there today, they have a couple pullers; one is exactly like the one pictured, the other is of the three pronged type with claws, though it only digs into the rubber backing of the 77-79 stock steering wheel. I better not drive the 77 as it's not licensed and not road ready - so I need to borrow a puller and pull the wheel at home.

I was told by my local shop that removing the three bolts that affix the steering column to the underbelly of the footwell, thereby dropping downt the column a few inches allows for a leveraged position to tap/pound the wheel from the rear? Anyone know of this technique?

Okay - what is a sure-fire way to do this - without ruining the wheel, or does someone know how to effectively, without complete disassembly, remove the steering wheel!?

Dan,

I have the puller you need. Too bad we didn't know about this when you were down this way last month!! If you're interested in buying it from me I'll let you have it for 1/2 of what Moss wants for them. I will probably never have the use for it again, so basically we'd be splitting the cost. Let me know if you want it and I'll put it in the mail tomorrow.

Chuck

look at the john twist video on youtube no puller needed

[quote=sg]
look at the john twist video on youtube no puller needed[/quote]

Steve : How??? Got a link????? :smoking:

Dan, you can get this for $15 and shipping from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824



Or, you can go to the local auto parts place and get a harmonic balancer puller. Most will have them in the tools area for $10 or so. It's basically the same thing.

[quote=jdeluke137]
Dan, you can get this for $15 and shipping from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824



Or, you can go to the local auto parts place and get a harmonic balancer puller. Most will have them in the tools area for $10 or so. It's basically the same thing.[/quote]

John, I have that puller tool - (from my neighbor) and the bolts. Either I don't know how to use it properly - or, the one I have's fingers aren't long enough? I've never done it, so there's a chance I'm not seeing it, using it right? Where on God's Green Earth to a affix the bolts to???????? If someone can provide an image of a 77 to 79 wheel (same), boy - I'd sure like to see it! Or a detailed description for me and others that aren't able to formulate a question in detail - so we all know!

Back the nut off to flush with the threads of the shaft,put Your knees under the steering wheel and put pressure on the wheel with Your legs,using a hammer and a brass drift punch "RAP" on the nut/shaft very firmly,May need to repeat the procedure several times to get it loose.

The John Twist method doesn't work well with the later cars because of the collapsible steering column. It tried it and finally gave up and bought the proper puller to avoid damaging the column.

[quote="Car Prep Inc."]
The John Twist method doesn't work well with the later cars because of the collapsible steering column. It tried it and finally gave up and bought the proper puller to avoid damaging the column.[/quote]

X2 only works on early cars get the right tool!

[quote=MrMarty51]
Back the nut off to flush with the threads of the shaft,put Your knees under the steering wheel and put pressure on the wheel with Your legs,using a hammer and a brass drift punch "RAP" on the nut/shaft very firmly,May need to repeat the procedure several times to get it loose.[/quote]

I don't want to make-love to the wheel, just remove it! :bouncing:

So, the way I understand what you've written is this...(assuming you know I have a 77 stock steering wheel...yes?)

I sit in the drivers seat, place my knees up behind the steering wheel, and pull with my thighs, towards me, (pressure) on the wheel, then with the wheel nut, backed off to the top of the bolt-shaft I use a Hammer and (and I don't have a Brass Drift Punch) what ever that is? -- and RAP on the steering wheel shaft until it loosens?

I've already tried rapping on the shaft with just a hammer - not too hard - and not had any luck getting the wheel to move. I don't have alot of faith in the method you suggest.

Dan, I forgot you've got a 77 there - the puller I pictured won't work. You need this one:



Available from Moss for a mere $44:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=51101&SortOrder=1

[quote=jdeluke137]
Dan, I forgot you've got a 77 there - the puller I pictured won't work. You need this one:



Available from Moss for a mere $44:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=51101&SortOrder=1[/quote]

John: Do the clamps come with the device? **I trust not? Have you used the device and does it -- work? I checked the Moss site, the clamps aren't included...hey - at least they include the device and not just a picture that looks cool, jeesh!

Dan, I haven't used it, but I bet Chuck has this one. He has an 80 model, and said he has the proper puller. He said he got it from Moss - sounded like he'd sell it to you for half price - see his post above.

...yes I've already PM'd him. Sounds like a good deal, we'll see. I'm not going to drop the column and pound the wheel from behind, sounds like a waste of time.

Dan:

I would ignore the John Twist video, it is too easy to frig up the steering shaft whacking it with a hammer, plus what the poster above said about the collapsable steering column. Here is how I have gotten steering wheels off of both my 93 Miata and 1978 MGB: Take the center nut off, sit in the seat and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle and pull on the wheel; then wiggle and pull at 12 and 6 oclock. Repeat. A few wiggles later and both wheels were in my hands! (Granted both hubs were non-rusted, stock set ups, YMMV)

Paul

[quote=jdeluke137]
Dan, I forgot you've got a 77 there - the puller I pictured won't work. You need this one:



Available from Moss for a mere $44:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=51101&SortOrder=1[/quote]

That's very much like what I came up with to pull mine, except it did not work. My wheel was on so tight it just pulled the stamped steel area inside (collapsing the rubber outer boot area) until it distorted so badly I couldn't use the clamps anymore. I ended up cutting the wheel off with an air chisel before I got on the actual hub with a real puller and pulled it. Even then, I had to chin myself on it and then rap the end with a hammer. I was pretty relieved when it finally popped free. This short description also omits the part about me popping my thumb out of joint holding the puller as I was attempting to tighten it, but I guess it's irrelevant other than to say "be careful."

I've got pictures, but not on this computer, we'll see if I can dig them up later.

Just one of those ten minute jobs that can turn into half a day or more...

Sean, Wow - doesn't sound fun. So did I hear you say that you used the Puller that Chuck wants to sell me - and that John said works? Did you use the Moss version (pictured above)? Or another version? I don't plan on cutting my wheel off - (of the 77). I just want to replace a broken turn signal switch, geewiz. :I3:

I'll keep reading this post - to see what unfolds. I am in no hurry to dislocate my thumb or bash myself in the chin.

Dan you might try a little penetrating oil the night before pulling it as well.

I don't have any penatrating oil - need to get some. It there a device that you could attach that would cause a high frequency of vibration to that affected, frozen area? I think that would work,eh?

Most cars, you can replace the turn signal switch by dropping the column then removing the column shroud. I don't remember if that will work with 77-80.
The wiggle method will work sometimes.
If you go to the knees behind and hand pulling while the other hand is holding a brass drift, you need help to swing the hammer. The reason you use the brass drift (looks like a brass chisel only with a rounded off end) is because any banging around on the end of the shaft will likely bugger the shaft threads making it nigh impossible to replace the big nut. DO NOT HIT THE SHAFT WITH JUST A HAMMER!
Edit:
And this is one place where the 77-80 cars really suck! Earlier years you can get a real puller in place easily and produce results. If you pull on the back of a rubber wheel, you just mess up the rubber.

I just replaced my turn switch on my 80LE and had to pull the wheel. I bought the pictured one (plate and c clamps) but it wouldnt work on the LE wheel, so I got the cheap one from HF and it popped off.

Doc

[quote=chris]

And this is one place where the 77-80 cars really suck! Earlier years you can get a real puller in place easily and produce results. If you pull on the back of a rubber wheel, you just mess up the rubber.[/quote]

Like Chris said,

Also I second the use of penetrating oil.

The puller I used was like the one Moss is selling.

[quote=ingoldsb]

[quote=danthefitman]
[quote=MrMarty51]
Back the nut off to flush with the threads of the shaft,put Your knees under the steering wheel and put pressure on the wheel with Your legs,using a hammer and a brass drift punch "RAP" on the nut/shaft very firmly,May need to repeat the procedure several times to get it loose.[/quote]

I don't want to make-love to the wheel, just remove it! :bouncing:

I've already tried rapping on the shaft with just a hammer - not too hard - and not had any luck getting the wheel to move. I don't have alot of faith in the method you suggest.[/quote]
When You were rapping on the shaft did You have pressure towards Your chest as applied with Your thighs???
A drift punch is a larger size punch say like 1/2 inch dia or bigger and cut to the specific needs at the moment rather it be steel or brass.I would not hit the shaft with just the hammer as others have suggested.Be sure to leave the nut on the end of the shaft so it is flush with the top of the threads otherwise the steering wheel may pop loose and fly into Your chest or face and also the nut will somewhat protect the shaft and threads from damage.
Mine MG B is a 77 but I have not had to remove the steering wheel as of yet.knock on wood.

I too bought an orignal signal set up that slides over the shaft. I yanked and pulled on that wheel. I tied a rope to the wheel and around the roll bar and pulled!! That SOB would not budge. I read some tips on the site, and having read many "be careful, you will break" postings, I gave up. Maybe it's time to try again, but I'll tell ya that thing feels welded on!!

Just thinking....i haven't done it yet either, but will......have you tried taking the propane torch and heating up that nut and stem to see if that might help break break it loose??...just a thought.

Got the wheel off my '78 using the Twist method in just a few seconds. No damage at all to anything and my wheel was VERY tight. If you hit it perfectly square you should not have a problem. Hit it crooked and all bets are off.

[quote=wallyorange]
Dan:

I would ignore the John Twist video, it is too easy to frig up the steering shaft whacking it with a hammer, plus what the poster above said about the collapsable steering column. Here is how I have gotten steering wheels off of both my 93 Miata and 1978 MGB: Take the center nut off, sit in the seat and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle and pull on the wheel; then wiggle and pull at 12 and 6 oclock. Repeat. A few wiggles later and both wheels were in my hands! (Granted both hubs were non-rusted, stock set ups, YMMV)

Paul[/quote]

I agree fully, just lean back in seat and pull on each side alternately.

Bashing with a hammer is for the idiots.

I attempted the Twist method tentatively, then, because I am not a mechanical wizard bought the correct puller for the job and it popped right off. The PO had used several incorrect pullers and had no success. I think it is rather to one's comfort level rather than a statement of intelligence.

Doc

Just pulling on a wheel with hands is so easy once you have seen it done.

Using the BFH is just like guys trying to remove tie rod ends.

It is an art to hit in the right place and hard enough maybe twice.

Newbies bash forever too lightly in the wrong place and give up with a mangled bent steering arm.

Steering wheels have arms with steel inside, as you wriggle/waggle it, it flexes on the spline and just pops off.

Although I would have someone help with a hammer if I was removing an original wire spoked wheel, but that 77 would fall off with hand pull pressure alone.

Like Mark Chopper Read said about toes and using boltcutters on them.

I luv it, they (the toes) just pop right off.

Loosen the damned nut about 1/16", find a large, heavy socket in your tool box, large enough to slip over the column shaft, small enough to not slop over the big nut, and a BFH. Sit in the drivers seat. Push your legs against the bottom of the wheel, and pull with your left hand on the top of the wheel while tapping the socket with the BFH. I might add I've been doing them that way for decades and never harmed a socket, a shaft or a nut....or the BFH.

I kind of feel bad, the wheel on my 78 came off with just a bit of thigh pressure down low and my hands at the 10 and 2 positions. Use some penetrating oil and put slow even pressure on it. Once it starts, it will probably just pop off.

[quote=ingoldsb]

Here is a picture of the one I cut off.

I first cut the rubber away from the outside so I could see what was under it. I determined that there was a stamped steel portion that was welded to the tapered center hub and cut that portion off. I then used a regular puller on just the little center hub and with lots of tension on it, I rapped the center area of the puller with a hammer and it popped loose!

I don't think most people are going to have this much trouble with it. I usually either wiggle the wheel loose, or am able to use a puller without much drama. Needless to say, I used anti-sieze on the taper and splines before putting the new Moto-Lita hub on. I would recommend that practice to anyone. I also don't feel the center nut needs God-like torque, either.

Sean

Yo Guys,

Well after a bunch of hours, over the course of a few days - failures, failures, failures - success. The Moss tool doesn't work**. A three pronged "Puller" from Harbor Freight, doesn't work...the only thing that worked is a BFH approach. I used the center bolt that came with the Puller that my neighbor lent me - to hold with the nut atop/level with the top of the Steering wheel bolt to smack it several hard-times - and magic, the steering wheel popped off.

Though - in the process of trying the Three-pronged Puller from Harbor Freight, I bent my steering wheel a bit - still functional, but slightly tweaked.

** The 3" C-Clamps to hold down that Moss plate don't work; why you may ask? Even with a third C Clamp - the plate isn't large enough - and it tilts, because the designers didn't think to make the top section a bit taller - so the leverage wouldn't create a tilt at the top section of the Moss puller plate. The only true way to do this I have found is with a BFH! Just remember to set the steering wheel nut atop the shaft so the tip of the bolt doesn't distort, thus never being able to get the nut back on again.

Anybody have a late model steering wheel they're willing to part with for cheap or trade (that's not bent or thrashed)? Let me know, thank you. Dan

Even with the nut on the shaft, you can bugger up the shaft; it tweaks sideways. Do a search on Gerry Masterman and steering columns.

[quote=MrMarty51]
Back the nut off to flush with the threads of the shaft,put Your knees under the steering wheel and put pressure on the wheel with Your legs,using a hammer and a brass drift punch "RAP" on the nut/shaft very firmly,May need to repeat the procedure several times to get it loose.[/quote]


This is the real deal..........works every time............