Tips on installing LEDs or Mini-Halogens to dash lights.

I searched but found very limited info. Can I get step by step detail instructions on how to install these without taking off the dash. Suggestions on size and where I can also find them.

I've tried several different types of LED's without much improvement. Some have recommended painting the inside of guages white (factory is light blue), some have recommended halogen bulbs and some have recommended bypassing the rheostat. I did all three at once.

If I had to do it again, I would install the halogens and bypass the rheostat and test the results BEFORE I spent the time and effort in painting the guages. It's very delicate work taking them apart and it is very easy to mess up the faces.

The halogens draw too much current for the rheostat, so by-pass it before you turn on the lights or you will be by-passing it 2 seconds later because you fried it.

The halogens are expensive, but the results are amazing; I can see the guage lights on while wearing sun glasses on a bright, sunny day! They are as bright as any modern car's guages.

I got my halogens from Jeff Zorn at Little British Car Co.

Hi Dakine,

I replaced the bulbs in my '80 B with LEDs from these sources:

http://www.superlumination.com/
http://superbrightleds.com/

I do not know if the bulbs in your car are the same. I would recommend removing sample bulbs and matching them to the offerings on the web sites. I did not have to remove my dash to get at the bulbs (except for the "Engine" indicator which is located between the tach and speedo - I left the old bulb in place as I could not get the tach to come free from the dash and I could not reach the bulb). The sockets containing the bulbs generally twist out or pull out. Then simply remove the bulb from the socket, insert the LED and reinstall in the gauge or indicator where it came from. Check the pictures in the Moss or VB catalogs - they may give you some clues.

I had to get some threaded bulbs for the instruments as I recall. They were listed as "Miniature Train" bulbs here: http://www.superlumination.com/trainbulbs.htm (scroll down a long long way) The ones with the inverted lens send more light out to the side.

The indicator bulbs were BA7s shown on this page http://www.superbrightleds.com/BA9S6_specs.htm (scroll down a long way)

I can offer the following:

1 - LEDs are BRIGHT. If you use them for the turn signal indicators or the high beam indicator... you may wish your didn't.
2 - Even though LEDsare bright they do not seem to make the old British gauges much brighter.
3 - The normal dimmer will not dim LEDs - they do not draw enough current to be effected by the dimmer potentiometer.
4 - LED bulbs are great for backup lights, license plate lights, courtesy and boot lights (all of these were "festoon" bulbs in my car. Hot, dim and a pain to find unless ordered from Moss or VB. The LEDs do a great job.

Ken

The deal with LEDs is that they're directional. Superbright now offer some that have multiple LEDs per unit, as well as some that have 32 degree and 90 degree fields of focus. These are new (to them, anyway) - they didn't offer them when I replaced the old bulbs in my dash. I've been using the halogens from Jeff Zorn also.

The main problem with halogen bulbs is that their life-span is shorter than standard bulbs. (LEDs last pretty much forever.) The main advantage is that they're bright.

Changing bulbs can be done without removing the dash, but it's not fun. If your hands are about the size of a 9-year old's, and kevlar coated, you're probably good to go. Otherwise, get ready for some cussing. It's worth it in the end, but still no fun.

I just swapped the dimmer switch from my new/old (OD)...rock on -- 77 B - with my non-working 79 switch - and man - what a difference. It's as if the 77 switch has never been used! Bright - clear and I can see them dash lights again!

Only thing is - I have to get the clock light working -- probably a burn't out bulb. What is the size/wattage of the bulb I need?

Thanks for the bright idea! :thumbsup:

Dan - the clock "should be" a BA9s. The switches use a smaller, BA7s bulb. For the '73, the larger gauges use an E10-base screw-in bulb. I think it's the same in the later cars like yours - the "newest" one I've taken apart was a '76, so I wouldn't swear to it though.

This is a no brainer. The rheostat is basically NFG. Just bundle up all the wires together, and wow the stock light will work just great. No need to look any further or spend any money.

Great stuff guys, AWESOME!

The best part is LED's will almost never burn out. They are bright enough, but are not super bright. That they put out no heat, and draw less power are also positives given the delicate rheostat. With any LED, they are on or off and are not really dimmable. IMHO the hardest one to get out is the second top light on the speedometer. It can help to remove the heater controls from below the speedometer to clear up more space to work. You can then unscrew the clamp so the unit can be rotated thus allowing access. Putting a mirror on the floorboards and rigging extra lights can help. If you are a jumbo-sized person, take out the driver's side seat.

I know lots of people have bypassed the reostat. I took a different approach and found a spare one on ebay and took it apart to see how it worked. On the older reostats at least, it is very simple, a slider bar and a spring on a board. I took some electrical contact cleaner and a very fine brass brush and cleaned the spring and sliding bar along with cleaning all of the contacts, the case etc. What a difference. I have very bright lights on high and I can adjust it lower if desired.

I am going to pull one apart just for curiousity.

Okay - what about the one shown here (late model B B)... I just swapped out my 77 to my 79 (such tough duty)...not really... :thumbsup:

Though my original Dimmer doesn't work hardly at all. Can this one be taken apart, (successfully)...cleaned and reassembled? I will do it ya know!

My main concern (short of the cost) with the Halogen bulbs is the extra current they draw over the standard bulbs. Can a Mark 1 B's wiring take the current, and will the extra heat at the bulb damage anything?

I took mine apart and cleaned it as well. I didn't notice an enormous difference.

One of the things I notice is grounding issues. With normal age the grounds corrode and aren't as good. Making sure you have clean, least resistance to ground as possible will do wonders for your dial lights. Dirty grounds adds resistance. So essentially you're dimming the bulbs in there the same as if you put a resistor to ground.

Its more work to clean all the grounds but worth it. Best to go through the whole car if you choose and make sure all grounds are as clean as possible.

Dan,

If you want to try to open it up, look on the back of the switch. There should be some small tabs that can be pried open. You'll need to remove the knob. Then the back should pull from the front. They are really a simple device.

Cris