vvvibration......

I've had my 80 mgb for three months now, and just am enjoying it to no end. i've learned a bit already from this forum, and out of necessity to repair minor things on my own on this car. with some success.
my lastest issue is....tonight i was heading home after a nice 20 mile jaunt. and noticed the car vibrating pretty strongly in third gear. when i pushed the clutch in it stopped. and when i revved the engine with the clutch in it stopped. so i know its not tires, balance, alignment etc.... and its not the engine. it seems to happen when i'm in 2nd through 3rd gear accelerating moderately. does this sound like a gearbox or trans issue. i'll check fluids tomorrow. alittle direction would help though.
thanks, robert

Drive shaft U joints maybe.

u joint

I'll third that opinion - U-Joints!

Limey Wrote:

John Twist of University Motors has a clip on YouTube you might check out. Don't try to match his speed on the job, however. He's a wizard.

If you buy new u-joints, be sure to get the ones with the grease fittings.

You can get the joints at NAPA or just about any parts store. Not hard to find and quicker tham ordering.

Steve

A recommendation if you do replace your U-joints (which is probably the correct diagnosis). Order a set of Hardy-Spicer U-joint replacement bears and crosses (H-S part # HS-194). You can get these from Moss (#268-060), and you may even be able to get them through local retailers.

Why Hardy-Spicer and not a generic kit? Because, 1) they were the OE supplier, 2) they are designed for the MGB and have the correct lube fittings (important for their long life), and 3) they are very well made. The point here is to specify this brand (even the venerable John Twist does!) when you buy some. You will just be happier with the outcome many many miles down the road. And by all means, check out John Twist's video on the subject. You may not be able to do the job at his lightning speed, but you will get it done right. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDX17xf9grA&mode=related&search=

as bob said hs ujoints. from a standing start, shift into first ans listen carefully for a clunk or click do the same in reverse. if so, jack up car to get underneath and visually and manually inspect joints. move the shaft, if it moves independent of the flange at either end ujoint is worn and s/b replaced. if you have ramps, use them or this might be a good time to get a pair. proper jacking and wheel chocking is of paramount importance.

bout an hour each for the dshaft out and in, especially if this is your first time. and and another hour or two pressing the old joints out and new in, no magic in it and proper tools, made or purchased are essential. might e worth habing the dshaft balanced at a local shop. also make sure on dshaft installation you line up the joints on the shaft and yoke, so that they flex together.

mick Wrote: