want to get my sills done?

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Nov 18, 2009 22:09:36
nicholas74

Looking for someone local and reasonable in the CT area. The bottom drivers side seems pretty rotted out but the underside seems fine and the passenger side doesn't look too bad but does have visible rust and some chipping of metal. The inside drivers side floor isn't pretty and has a hole by the break but I think the floor is in reasonable shape and with some sandblasting should look good. I'm just looking for some direction and a possible person or shop that is recommended. Thanks for the help.

Nick

Nov 19, 2009 03:17:56
Phantomracer

check out your local MG clubs.

You can call some body shops..see them scatter like rats deserting a sinking ship!

To do it right will be an insane amount of labor if you pay for it..

Another option is to do it like I did..take an autobody class and DIY

Doubt you will find many takers on the cheap...to be done properly anyway





Nov 19, 2009 04:07:00
NOHOME

What you are talking about takes around 100 hours of $omeones time. Body shops around here are $65-100/hr!
Body shops do not want this work since it is outside of their skill set.
Maybe you can find a person working out of their shop who will do this for you? If they are not MGB focused, I would make a point of learning how to do this job in my head and then explain how I want it done. Frequent scheduled visits are the way to make sure things go smoothly in these instances. When farming stuff out, you are still the project manager and largely responsible for results.

Doing it yourself is not really difficult, just that 100 hours is a lot of time to find.
I posted this in another thread, but here is a link to how I just did one by splicing in new rockers into the old ones. Bit different approach but results were quite pleasing.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3385137

Pete

Nov 19, 2009 04:21:00
Phantomracer

Quote: "
What you are talking about takes around 100 hours of $omeones time. Body shops around here are $65-100/hr!
Body shops do not want this work since it is outside of their skill set.
Maybe you can find a person working out of their shop who will do this for you? If they are not MGB focused, I would make a point of learning how to do this job in my head and then explain how I want it done. Frequent scheduled visits are the way to make sure things go smoothly in these instances. When farming stuff out, you are still the project manager and largely responsible for results.

Doing it yourself is not really difficult, just that 100 hours is a lot of time to find.
I posted this in another thread, but here is a link to how I just did one by splicing in new rockers into the old ones. Bit different approach but results were quite pleasing.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3385137

Pete"


I would buy that. I figure I had 80 hours into doing the sills on my GT, which were not terrible. I also did a bit of slicing and dicing instead of replacing the entire panels. Worked out well.. great results I think http://www.seeberg.com/mgb/gt/pass_rocker/index.html

There are tons of posts on this forum about this job, lots of pictures for inspiration.

Nov 19, 2009 04:57:59
Les Brown

Pete,thats the best breakdown of this job I've ever seen,well done.1 more in my favorites file:thumbup:

Nov 19, 2009 06:57:41
mbgator

I agree. I just completed this project on my '80 B. Replaced the floors, sills, rockers, (inner and outer), castle rails, etc. I guess I have 100+ hours in the project, not including paint.
I took the car to several body shops both large and small and nobody wanted to touch it. Was way outside what they wanted to work on. They want to replace nice clean pieces for insurance companies, not work on an older car.
I bought the pieces from Mr. Roop, purchased a welder and taught myself to weld. Over the winter, between trips - got the job done. Might not be pretty, but it'll hold.

Mike

Nov 19, 2009 07:10:37
mgbgts

A pro who does it for a living, can do it in less hours. If he's not to high on his rate expect to spent $3500 and up (not including paint)

Nov 19, 2009 07:37:20
Phantomracer

Quote: "
A pro who does it for a living, can do it in less hours. If he's not to high on his rate expect to spent $3500 and up (not including paint)"


That would have to be a really low rate! I would guess it would take a minimum of 80 hours to do the job properly by a pro. At a standard rate (on the very low end for boston) of $80, is $6400 + parts and materials, so no less than 7 grand P+L. I would add more for a roadster since you have to deal with R+R the windscreen and do more bracing than on a GT

I have seen my mechanic do 2 sill jobs, each took no less than 2 weeks, not working on any customers cars (over the winter naturaly), for him and his other mechanic to do it.

I think 80-100 hours is in the ballpark and quite a fair estimate. If it is worse than expected (It always is!) and have to do floors too..then add many more hours!

Plus even finding a pro to do this level of work would be hard to do. I can't think of anyone locally to me that would do it, even if they could. Most shops prefer fender-bender insurance claims they can bang out in a day or 2.

Nov 19, 2009 08:30:46
mgbgts

A local guy that retired a couple of years ago charged $3500 when he quit. so thats where I got that number.
I can easily do it in under 100 hours including floors, and not hack it up. I usually just charge by the hour and not the job, so I've never really came up with good overall numbers for stuff like this. The last one I did I even cut the whole back of the car off to get it straight and level (it had been rear ended in the past, and another rear clip put on half-a$$ed and crooked) put it back on and rebuild part of the healboard, in primer with doglegs, and I know I didn't go over 100 hours.
Now I am a cheapskate myself, and would never pay the price most are charging if I were having work done, which ends up leading me to be cheaper than those guys around you (I feel bad charging that much, I really need to get over that), and in need of raising my rates so I am probbably on the low side with my numbers.
Most guys like me who specialize in these tend to charge a little less per hour, or drop a couple hours here and there on the big jobs like this, because very few people would re-do these thing if we were charging $7k plus for rockers, add on the price of a paint job and other resto work, then the cost can get pretty high pretty quickly, and then people would start tossing them rather than fixing them, That's the very reason why comercial body shops will turn you down, they can keep the smaller less time consuming jobs flowing through at their full rate, and that's also the reason there are so many hackers out there, they don't want to put the time into doing it right if they can't charge all that time. They cut corners everywhere do a crappy job, and make it look decent on the outside for a more affordable price.
In order to get a reasonable price, AND get a decent jod of it, you have to search out the guy in your area that has a real passion for the cars, and cares more about doing good workmanship, than filling up their wallet.

Nov 19, 2009 09:44:26
NOHOME

Les:

If you like looking at pictures of "works in progress" here are two others I am currently working on. My poor GT sits unloved and undriven since I decided that fabricaton was the fun part of the hobby for me.

The Healey 3000:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2472007

The little Healey (bugeye)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2203663

Pete

Nov 19, 2009 10:05:21
carlheideman

When we do rust repair on MGBs at Eclectic Motorworks, we're usually looking at about:

40 hours for sills, doglegs and front fender bottoms
80 hours if we need to add castle sections, minor repairs to floors, and full lower rear quarter panels
90-100 hours if we add floors.
We'll often spend a few more hours on doors, bent trunk lids, etc., to finish the metalwork--then it's off for paint.

We're $70/hour for this kind of work--it's unfortunately very expensive.

As a shameless plug, we offer a hands-on MGB welding seminar for do-it-yourselfers about twice a year--our next one is Dec 4-5. http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/rustrepairwelding.html

--Carl

Nov 19, 2009 10:18:12
Phantomracer

Quote: "
When we do rust repair on MGBs at Eclectic Motorworks, we're usually looking at about:

40 hours for sills, doglegs and front fender bottoms
80 hours if we need to add castle sections, minor repairs to floors, and full lower rear quarter panels
90-100 hours if we add floors.
We'll often spend a few more hours on doors, bent trunk lids, etc., to finish the metalwork--then it's off for paint.

We're $70/hour for this kind of work--it's unfortunately very expensive.

As a shameless plug, we offer a hands-on MGB welding seminar for do-it-yourselfers about twice a year--our next one is Dec 4-5. http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/rustrepairwelding.html

--Carl"


So at least I was in the ballpark. Still is a great value to buy a car done! That would have been the smart thing for me to do! But I thing it is a rite of passage to do at least one car!

great idea offering seminars. As mentioned, many voc tech schools offer welding and autobody classes..Of course not MGB focused..but thats where I learned. It is nice to see services offered to DIY'ers to learn how to do it properly

Nov 19, 2009 10:45:18
nicholas74

Cool I'll look into it. How much for the classes.

Nov 19, 2009 10:47:43
Les Brown

this is a good place to start......

mig welding

Nov 19, 2009 10:54:30
Be Coming

I strongly recomend Carl's seminars for anyone contemplating doing rust repair work on their MGB. The amount of information and technical expertise you have a chance to accumulate is incredible and the welding skills are applicable to any automotive project.

kelvin

Nov 19, 2009 10:55:05
Phantomracer

Quote: "
Cool I'll look into it. How much for the classes."


Looks like Carls class is $500 for 2 days for his focused class on rust repair and unibody.

The classes I take are $200 for 10 weeks (30 hours) for general autobody, with full use of the shops tools (welders, spot welders, paint booth, body tools etc) This would vary greatly from school to school of course. The classes are great. keeps me out of trouble!

Nov 19, 2009 13:39:17
pooch2

Prices are strange.

Here a panelbeater can only charge about $31 AUD an hour for R and R and repairs.

Funny that bog merchants over there are getting $100 USD an hour.

Mechanics here vary a lot but out of the metro area, they go from 70 to 100 bucks an hour and they need a LOT more equipment than a panelbeater does.

Nov 19, 2009 15:50:32
neher

At what point does it make more sense to go with a hertitage shell, especially with the pound crashing.

Nov 20, 2009 09:46:16
Steve Lyle

Re: when do you get to the Heritage shell point?

Last time I checked, a Heritage shell was $10k + shipping in the US, I'm sure it's more now. That'll pay for a LOT of bodywork. You don't hear about people in the US going that route much, especially given the relative availability of rust-free cars in CA/AZ/NM/etc..

I sense it's a more common route in the UK - they've got a much smaller pool of rust-free cars to draw from.

Nov 20, 2009 10:27:58
Les Brown

Quote: "


I sense it's a more common route in the UK - they've got a much smaller pool of rust-free cars to draw from."


your not wrong there!

Nov 20, 2009 10:33:41
AVIMAX

Yup $10k. Last spring before I began my sill replacement, I toyed with the idea of a heritage shell since I am doing a complete restoration anyways. They guy I get my panels from told me he found 3 in the States, a CB roadster, a RB roadster and one GT. They were $9999 USD, not painted, no shipping. In the end, I decided to do the work myself. In fact I'm still working on it. This is my first time welding and it is a great learning experience if you are up to it, have the space, and lots of time. It is a lot of work, but so far I am enjoying every minute of it. So far I am replacing both compete sill assys, both rear fenders from the chrome strip down, both rear outer wheel wells, both floors, both dash side panels (just in front of the A-pillar where many are hacked for speakers), both door skins and both front fenders. Total in parts so far is about $5k (Canadian). Half the cost of the shell, and in the end almost the complete outside will be new. Keep in mind if all you need is sills, the heritage shell is probably not the way to go. You have to completely dismantle the car and there will be a number of new parts you will end up buying, either because they just don't look good enough for the new shell, or you damaged them during disassembly.

Nov 20, 2009 11:09:15
nicholas74

Not sure I have this much time on my hands, what about video? And I don't think I could o it with out some help and a ton of tools that i don't own? I don't even have a real jack, all I have is the one from my Scion and let me tell you getting it on an off cinderblocks was the hardest project yet. Let me see if I can contact someone at my local MG club? Thanks
At some point I would love to take some classes.

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