water pump leak??

OK, like a moron, I changed everything on my car but the waterpump...I've never had one fail. I've read several posts about this and I'm wondering this...

I've got a small leak...I guessing out the "weep hole" probably after the car is turned off.

I installed one of those octogon caps with the temperature gauges built in that Jeff from advance was selling...13psi I'm thinking

Wasn't the original cap a 7lb cap?...could it be that the extra pressure required to spring the cap for the overflow is not opening and in turn "weeping" out the hole...

I just filled it with radiator fluid for the first time and don't know if it is trying to displace "overfill"

anythoughts...just replace the damn water pump...right?

david

After years of use, the seals do go bad.
Replacements are available from most chain auto parts stores and MG parts suppliers.

Summer is coming. replace it.

Did it sit dry for a long time during the rebuild? Probably.
Replace it now for safety. It isn't all that tough.

pressure test the system to 14-15 pounds. then you can see where it is coming from.

A new pump is not that expensive and replacing it not that big a chore. An old one that you don't know the history of will always be a question mark, but a good quality new one at the very least gives you your own history with the car, and less likelihood of a surprise down the road. By the time most water pumps start leaking at the weep hole, that is your notice that it won't be long before it will fail from lubrication starvation as the leaking coolant washes out the bearing lubricants. Antifreeze and water are really poor lubricants.

thanks guys...I guess I really new the answer to the question before I posted but was delaying the inevitable.

thanks!

david

Before you change the pump, give it a little time.

A water pump seal is different than a common oil seal, in that it works by having 2 surfaces rubbing on each other rather than a seal on a shaft, as you might imagine.

In original and replacement pumps up until a few(15?) years ago, a carbon face would run against either a cast iron face, or steel face. The slight friction would keep the surfaces clean and exclude water. What often happens in a pump that's been sitting for even a season is that rust forms on that ferrous surface and doesn't seal well and may even gouge the carbon. Try to give it a chance to reseat, or runoff the rust particles. Best done with radiator cap off, and let the car idle, and provide a catch pan. It may take a half hour or so, so watch the heat gauge, and add water if necessary. The slipperier the antifreeze the longer this may take. You want a little wear to occur to clean the ferrous side.

Yes, there is a rubber component of the seal that cold have perished, but this may be worth the time to try. New, modern pumps and some newly made reproduction pumps, and even some pump remanufacturers are using a ceramic cartridge seal which is a lot more friendly as the carbon face runs against a ceramic face all but eliminating the rust issues.

Hope this helps.

Peter C.