I have A couple of questions on the weber conversion for my 79 B.
I have the weber installed and the accelerator cable attached but when I let up on the the accelerator the carb doesn't snap back to idle. Am I missing a spring somewhere?
The other question I have is this hose coming out of the engine block to the left of the removed distributer.It's a long one and I think it may have gone over to the old manifold.
If it's part of the emissions can I remove it and block it off?
Thanks for any help
Took another look at that hose it looks like it had water coming out of it.I assume it went over to the old stromberg carb at one time.I can block it off now that I have a manual choke carb now right?
weber 32/36 DGV install help
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James,
I have two springs on my weber's throttle bracket to pull it back. They attach to a short bracket coming off off one of the manifold bolts.
Some more knowledgeable (most anyone here) will need to answer your other question--I think both hoses to the left of the distributor are oil lines--one from the filter and one to a pressure sensor/cut off switch?
That hose closest to the distributor is a rigged up something. The hole is where the block coolant drain is supposed to be. I'm going to guess it was rigged up to make up for no water fitting at the back of the head for the water choke.
You can put a bolt with sealing washer there or a drain cock, your choice.
That hose closest to the distributor is a rigged up something. The hole is where the block coolant drain is supposed to be. I'm going to guess it was rigged up to make up for no water fitting at the back of the head for the water choke.
You can put a bolt with sealing washer there or a drain cock, your choice."
Were`nt that a pipe plug???if so a standard drain cock will fit.
I thought maybe I was missing a spring or had done something wrong.
Here is what I have now,
No mention of springs in the so called instuctions.
Thanks for all the help
yup. you get to engineer your own return spring lashup.
you might also look at your cable set up as well. doesn't look to me like you'd be able to get full throttle with that. check by having someone floor it in the car then see if you can move the carb linkage "more open". Another engineering problem you'll need to face. (several approaches...one is to raise the pull point on the linkage, the other is to lower the cable mount.)
You need one or two springs down to the manifold bolt. Otherwise the condition you mention will continue. As for the water line from the picture you show one open hole is for the heater outlet to the heater. I don't know what the lowest hose is. The other two are upper oil line to filter and oil line pressure line.
The attached link will get you a good hook up for your Weber and it's related hoses. Get your springs line up and good luck.
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/weber-hose.html
Here's my return spring setup. Nothing original, someone else on the forum had a post about it.
Before you call it quits, you might consider turning your carb around. That way you will find it very easy to make idle and mixture adjustments. It only took me about 8 years to figure it out but having the carb face the other direction makes life easy. Mine has a water choke so that's what those hoses are for. I also ran the engine vent hose to the intake manifold instead of the air filter. You also may want to bend the throttle cable bracket so that the tube part is in line with the cable itself when it comes out of the tube. This will prevent the cable from wearing a slot in the side of the tube over time.



Peter, someone had mentioned to me that the float bowls on the back may lead to stalling/hesitatin on hard acceleration. I have mine arranged as yours and haven't had an issue--have you?
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