Well, I bit the bullet.....

Got the engine pulled for the clutch job, and I was going to do the big end bearings like was suggested, but I got looking at the cam, and some lobes are a LOT more rounded on the top than others, so....I ordered new cam, lifters, entire rocker assembly, major engine rebuild kit, clutch kit, front motor mounts, etc. from Brit-Tek. I decided not to get a rebore 'till I get a look at the cylinders, so I didn't order new pistons, just standard rings. Also bought the dual row timing upgrade, new radiator (car slipped off the floorjack and squashed the old one.) Now a question....How far should I go on the head? Car has 78000 miles on it, used no oil, didn't smoke, had decent compression, etc. Can I get away with just lapping the valves, leaving them as is, or what. I will put new seals on, but how about guides? Thanks...I know this is long, but this is a first rebuild on this type of engine for me.

Well, if I was going that far, I would have a qualified machine shop look at it!! I would think that a valve grind is in order!! It will be inexpensive if nothing needs to be replaced!! When it is rebuilt, the compression will change, so it will bring out any weakness in the system!! Good luck Vern!!

Try to find a machine shop recommended by a local MG club. The machine shop I selected really botched up the valve job and it ended up making a second trip to a different shop to get straightened out.

With 78K on the engine you will need to have the head worked. I can assure you that the guides have wear. You also may have some valve stem wear. Another thing I would never go through a motor with out setting the head up for no lead gas. Also have it decked, have you block deck checked, you boar checked, the crank at least polished, replace the oil pump, water pump, temp sender, thermostate, oil pressure relief valve, valve springs, and the fly wheel surfaced. I suspect you didn't need to replace the rocker assm. I have never had to replace the assm. Just the shaft. I would also have the block and head hot vated. If you don't do these things it will come back to bite you.

I was gonna say that, but have gotten tired of getting flamed!! Thanks Tom!!! They all respect you and your work!!

Okay, now the only problem is convincing my wife that I need to spend the cash, and finding a machine shop in the Reno area that won't screw it up. It's a 79 so it should already be set up for unleaded gas.

There was nothing done to the head for no lead gas. The head were all the same in that respect.

How do they get away with using a catalytic converter without building it to use no-lead gas? So, what do I need to have done besides the stuff you mentioned before? I've got everything taken apart, no obvious problems. Not even a ridge around the top of the cylinders. Just carboned up some. Big end bearings were just beginning to show brass on the edge of a couple of 'em. Valves look good too. Cam was worn on a couple of lobes, though. Soft metal? Still searching for a machine shop that doesn't look like a junk store inside.

As far as the head you need bronze silicone guides and steel harden seats for the exhause.

And stellite valves.