What else should I get?

I'm about to make another purchase from Victoria British and want to make sure I get everything I need at once (i hate to pay shipping). I have a 1969 MGC that I'm bring back to life after being stored for 10 years. I'm trying to follow the Autoist guide to awake a sleeping car (what a helpful checklist).

Here is what I have done so far:

new rear wheel cylinders

new brake pads

new rear bearing oil seal

removed and cleaned rear end parts

Parts I already have to install

distributor cap,rotor, points and condenser

new front flexible brake lines

front caliper rebuild kits

valve cover gasket

new thermostat

brake cylinder rebuild kit

clutch rebuild kit

slave cylinder rebuild kit

radiator cap

water temp switch

Items I'm going to buy this time

new clutch hose

new fuel pump (just gave out)

all new gaskets for upper end of engine

I already know I need two new rear hubs (there almost spun). I'll be waiting to get them when I get all new chrome wire wheels. Is there anything else I should get. I'll be tearing down the front brakes and hubs this weekend. Is there any seals or gaskets I will need that should be replaced when doing this? Thanks for all the help in advance.

David McCloy

<> Checked the U-Joints?

<> Pinion Seal

<> Fuses?

<> Checked Bulbs?

<> Wipers/Blades

<> Maybe 2/3 Valve cover gaskets - Always helps to have a spare.

<> Maybe new lock washers for the calipers when you put them back on.

<> Fan Belt

And you'll order again. I would wager, by the time you get the car on thr ground and running, you'll have ordered at least 3 more times or driven 40 miles to the nearest Brit Shop!

All that stuff is available at local parts stores. The best thing he can do is to inspect everything near anything he's working on and make notes of what he thinks he'll need. Buying parts for a rebuild takes a lot of forethought and planning to keep from buying something at the beginning of the job that you can't use until near the end. I made about 4 big orders during my rebuild and each one took at least a week to plan out what I could use until I was ready to make the next one. Work, scrimp, save, plan, order, and it went like that for 18 months, but it went smoothly.

David,

I'd suggest doing the rear brake hose as well as the fronts if you've not already done it. Also, I think there are small air filters in the brake boosters that should be replaced. I've not looked at C calipers yet, but IF they're similar to B calipers, and IF you plan on splitting the caliper halves (all the books say don't...) then get the seals that go between the halves.

Maybe spark plugs and wires. A few oil filters to put on the shelf, if you don't already have them. Drain plug crush washers (both for the sump and the one on the filter head), as well as any fiddly bits you may be missing out of the filter can. Perhaps the big oring that goes between the shell of the can and the filter head, as the ones that I got with my last filter didn't fit properly. Coolant hoses.

That's all I can think of for now!

Rear brake adjusters, if they're froze up. Biggest difference I've made on my brakes so far. And John's right, you can get a bunch of this stuff locally and save money, both on the part and shipping. Don't buy the VB head gasket, go down to Advance Auto or whereever and get the Felpro. Huge difference in quality.

Check all rubber bushings.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm sure I'll get very friendly with V.B.

Good ideas, thanks for the suggestions..

My boosters are bypassed. I don't even want to think about getting new boosters right now. Moocho $. replacing all flexible hoses for all systems is already on my list.

I read about the not splitting the caliper halves. I'm not understanding that. When I brake down the caliper there is two pistons on each side. Do each of the pistons then break into two additional parts. Kind confusing. I'm sure I'll understand it once I get them off the car tonight.

Thanks again for the suggestions,

David

I already cleaned the rear brake parts and both adjusted looked fine. Not completely sure how they work or how efficient they are. There different on a C model then they are on the B I have that I'm used to. I'll definitely take your advice on checking local auto shops. I've already had problem with the shop not even showing a MGC model. All they show is MGB. Thanks again for the advice.