I recently got started on my next dyno engine and was checking and prepping various parts for it tonight.
Who can tell me what is wrong with this picture?
What's Wrong With This Picture?
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Looks to me like the dishing is off center, but it could be the camera angle.
Sean, I'm not sure if it's what you're talking about but those stamped letters have a high ridge that I'd surely knock down before they become a hot spot. Basil
It's an ashtray made to look like a piston with a handle! :devil:
I'm with Paul. Probably stamped wrong. Makes ya wonder what else they messed up?
Yep, there's no way "front" could be the front with the way it's stamped. Somebody messed up.
Didn't the Austin Marina mount the 1800 engine transverse for FWD? That would orient the stamp correctly. (As would drifting an MGB sideways) :)
Just thinking of it, may be it is OK to mark the pistons this way when they were made for the Landcrab Austin 1800 Maxi, that shared the B-Series engine in a E-W installation.
Bore&strok are identical, as are the crank and con-rods.
Just thinking of it, may be it is OK to mark the pistons this way when they were made for the Landcrab Austin 1800 Maxi, that shared the B-Series engine in a E-W installation.
Bore&strok are identical, as are the crank and con-rods."
I had one of those and the pistons were marked normally, the front of the engine being the water pump end.
Not the Marina Greg they where RWD. but the follow up was the Maestro and that was FWD.
There is a good chance you can find a connecting rod to work with that piston if you go to the SCCA end of season runoffs at Road America. (Look in the trash bins!)
What, y'all never heard of the "Sidestroke"? Now maybe I can also find some pic of the "Breaststroke "to go with that for ya!
Pete
I think you guys got the idea. It's a good thing I know which way it really is supposed to go!
The piston is a County piston and yes, I'll be checking every other aspect of the set (ring grooves, etc.).
Not the Marina Greg they where RWD. but the follow up was the [s]Maestro[/s] and that was FWD."
no swearing on the forum please,kids read this too.
I have also seen piston sets stamped .040" over, when they weren't - and in one case the owner had the engine bored without the pistons (although I would think no reputable shop would attack a block without pistons in hand) and found out too late.
I always mike my pistons and bearings (seen them marked wrong too!) before using them. I suspect that the factory foreman at AE/Hepolite had a useless nephew that they figured was good only for wielding a set of stamps because they thought it would keep him out of real trouble....
It is amazing what one sees over the years. I've even seen a set of used pistons that the 'mechanic' had enough smarts to remove from an engine, and to realize that you should mark them, but his sense fell a bit short when he chose a centre punch to mark them with, and he whaled away at them with an obviously heavy hammer, punching a divot in the crown that made them look like they'd been attacked by a wildcat driller.
The Indian that stamped it probably doesn't know what "front" means. Just got a set of .030s in. This sure isn't very reassureing. Talking to my machine shop yesterday, I was lamenting where all this stuff comes from. Valves from Argentina for example. He said they make lots of valves. SBC ones even.
OK I'll ask. In a situation like this how do you determine the front and rear of the piston? If they can make a mistake like this it might be worth double checking to make sure the front is really marked correctly .My engine is at the machine shop at the moment with County pistons. Yikes!
Argentina makes good valves. Many of the higher quality valves and valve blanks are made down there, so don't be scared of that.
When viewing the engine from the front (water pump end) the piston pin should be offset to the left, away from the camshaft. The oil hole in the rod is on the same side as well (away from the camshaft).
Argentina makes good valves. Many of the higher quality valves and valve blanks are made down there, so don't be scared of that.
When viewing the engine from the front (water pump end) the piston pin should be offset to the left, away from the camshaft. The oil hole in the rod is on the same side as well (away from the camshaft)."
With the added comment that if you are using horizontal split rods, it may not matter which way they go on the crank. Even the oil holes may be irrelevant - the Twin Cam didn't use them and never came to grief over it (over other things, yes, but not over oil spray).
And the third world makes many items as good or better than are made in the industrialized nations. In high end audio, tubes are still extensively used (valves, to the British) and the best ones are/were made in Russia and what was Yugoslavia, with inroads being made by China.
The big issue with any Chinese product is lack of quality control, and it is up to the purchaser in North America to exercise control by rejecting and refusing to pay for any product that shows up in inferior condition or not designed as per sample. I understand why Moss et al don't find it economical to check samples of every shipment, but I still resent being asked to take care of quality control myself as an end user.
This has come up a few times.
It makes sense now if that piston has been made for the austin 1800 land crab.
I think the radiator was on the left side. (Yank driver's side).
So in the pic, if this piston was to be used in an MGB, the front would be at 3 o/clock.
I understand why Moss et al don't find it economical to check samples of every shipment,
"
I agree. Some time ago I bought an aluminum hood from Moss. When it arrived the packaging was *perfect*. No marks on the box, and whoever had packed it in the UK had really done an excellent job of using foam and so forth. But the bonnet was badly damaged - and it looked to me like it was bad when packed in England.
Moss covered the damage 100% (good, old Moss!!) - but aside from several extra weeks of downtime for me, it cost Moss a fortune in extra shipping - and I'm sure they couldn't reclaim it against the supplier. I figure Moss ate almost $1000 on that order.
Now, I know it would take an extra few minutes to double check before shipping, and maybe it isn't economical on every nut, bolt and screw. But for things that are expensive or have serious repercussions (like a piston) then you would have to think it would be best to check them.
But the real culprit is the cheap owners! For many people price is apparently a huge factor. I find the parts for our cars (with a few exceptions) much cheaper than contemporary automobiles. I'd happily pay 10% more for parts if they were better parts!
It's a big Mary Jane pipe turned upside down. I said at least one lid.
Blueottie
[quote]
I understand why Moss et al don't find it economical to check samples of every shipment,
"
I agree. Some time ago I bought an aluminum hood from Moss. When it arrived the packaging was *perfect*. No marks on the box, and whoever had packed it in the UK had really done an excellent job of using foam and so forth. But the bonnet was badly damaged - and it looked to me like it was bad when packed in England.
Moss covered the damage 100% (good, old Moss!!) - but aside from several extra weeks of downtime for me, it cost Moss a fortune in extra shipping - and I'm sure they couldn't reclaim it against the supplier. I figure Moss ate almost $1000 on that order.
Now, I know it would take an extra few minutes to double check before shipping, and maybe it isn't economical on every nut, bolt and screw. But for things that are expensive or have serious repercussions (like a piston) then you would have to think it would be best to check them.
But the real culprit is the cheap owners! For many people price is apparently a huge factor. I find the parts for our cars (with a few exceptions) much cheaper than contemporary automobiles. I'd happily pay 10% more for parts if they were better parts![/quote]
X2
But it's the way of the world today. I just priced some generic parts for an 02 Buick Century today. The insurance co ain't paying for GM prices on an 02 with 200thou on it. Guy asked if I wanted the better or cheaper. So there is a choice with even the cheap stuff if you want cheap or cheaper or cheapest.
LOL I like that...high quality crap or low quality crap...at least you were offered a choice.
tc
I've seen this before. In fact I have a set marked like that installed in my MGB right now. I believe that they were marked for the transverse mount application because when lined up correctly the "front" marking would indeed be to the front in that application. This was verified by checking the wrist pin offset. So in the B the "front" marking goes to the distributor side.
The big issue with any Chinese product is lack of quality control, and it is up to the purchaser in North America to exercise control by rejecting and refusing to pay for any product that shows up in inferior condition or not designed as per sample. I understand why Moss et al don't find it economical to check samples of every shipment, but I still resent being asked to take care of quality control myself as an end user."
x2.....A friend just wasted untold hours installing a Chinese made crank in a Buick Grand National block. He checked the specs on the crank journals, installed the bearing and tried to torque to specs but couldn't get within 20 lb.ft of final spec before the crank refused to turn. The rod journals were perfect but the mains were exactly to spec only in the centre of the journals. The ~#*&^% main journals were concave. I suggested ordering some Chinese convex bearings but he didn't see the humour in it.
The ~#*&^% main journals were concave. I suggested ordering some Chinese convex bearings but he didn't see the humour in it."
Now THAT'S funny!:thumbup:
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