which oil to break an engine in?

All

The head is on the engine now and everything is bolted on minus the valve cover.
I bought a new camshaft and remember the mechanic who sold it to me telling me not to use standard motor oil during the break in period because it could damage the camshaft.

So can anyone recommend which oil to use during the break in period? The plan is to run the engine for 15 mins and then change the oil, then for 30 mins and change the oil and then for the 1000 miles.

Let me know

All the best

Al

VR1 20-50.

You need the ZDDp then, especially.

2000 rpm for about 15-20 min for cam break in.

The standard reccomendation had been 30wt ND for the first 500 miles. I would be inclined to do the same but with a few ounces of GM EOS mixed in. Then I would go with the 20/50 ZR1 as I do now.

This is my opinion alone and other more qualified will chime in.

Al

Straight 30W Non-Detergent is pretty standard for breakin.

Len

did you use assembly lube on the cam? normal procedure for first run is to run
engine at 2000 for about 20 min and change the oil filter/oil..use 20-50 as youre concerned with rapidly getting oil to all moving parts,,,its oil flow that counts!!
any name brand oil that has deisel spec written on the back is good.
shell rotella is readily available and others alsao.

Make sure that you prime the engine first and get the oil moving thru all passages.

Gang, thanks! Engine lube was used on the cam prior to installing it. I pick some 20w50 Diesel spec oil this week.

All the best

Al

Make sure that the oil has the CI-4 spec on the label.

How do you prime the engine first?

thanks.

How did these engines ever work in the first place? ;)

Bruce,
Pull the plugs and turn the engine over until you get pressure. May take as long as 2 minutes of cranking. Don't crank more than 20-30 seconds at a time.

simple....thanks clay

i saw an article in one of those street rod mags about making a pre-oiler,
out of a 4in pvc "clean out" tee fitting. a clean out tee has the normal glue
type ends on the tee run and a threaded plug goes into the "branch"..
by fabricating suitable ends on both ends of the run ,one flex hose to oil galley,
<1/8 npt most brit,japanese,american cars>on one end and an air source fitting on the opposite end of the run..fill thru clean out branch <threaded plug >
completed quantity if internal dimension is 12 in it will hold 3 qt,not counting the branch volume,or 2 qts if internal dimension is 8 in..connect to oil galley and
pressurize . 2 or 3 qts will be enough for any car engine..

if any of you ever been th an auto assembly plant and watched the initial start/run on the dyno <in floor mounted> the operator in the drivers seat runs eng in all gears to obtain a measured level of acceptance ,which is close to max rated rpm.
modern engines and lubes are a thousand times better than they were in the 50s.
the old "break in " routine dont apply anymore.

I agree. Two things are critical in break in. Ring seating and cam/lifter break in. These both occur within the first moments of running. I don't see the need for changeing the oil until the first 500mi.

alabbasi Wrote: