MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
As I steel myself to this coming Monday and the glass shop making another attempt is there any know procedure I can pass along to them?
I saw them twisting and torquing the frame so much I can't believe the glass didn't shatter. They're trying to get the top bolts in first. Shouldn't they try the bottom bolts first? I'm just trying to help them along and get this over with.
Appreciate any and all advice.
Best thing I ever did was let the frame sit on its own weight for a few weeks before putting the bolts in. It was almost easy to install it after that.
There is a thread on the UK BBS about this very topic right now in the "MGB Technical" forum.
I'll check the other forum. Unfortunately I can't blow it off for a couple weeks. If it was in my garage no sweat. Thanks Steve.
Steve. Can you send me a link to that thread? I can't find it. Only one about someone to install a windshield in South Carolina.
Look inside the door jamb - there's a little plate riveted over the area where the windshield frame bolts go...unrivet it & you can see the frame & its holes...you can put a screwdriver in one of the holes to pull the frame down while you start the other bolt...after the windshield is in place just rivet the cover back on
Oh, instead of using the OE bolts, go get a tapered wood screw---it'll rethread itself & pull the windshield frame down as it works up the taper (I think one of the '70's GM cars used those tapered bolts to hold the hood on)
You can drive the car with the windsheild completely unbolted. I did it for over a year once. I'm not saying it won't kill you if you crash the car, just that it won't go anywhere. So if it comes down to it you could still get the car home without the bolts in place. Proceed at your own risk of course! ;)
Thanks guys.
Tony. I think my plate is missing already. I pulled the dash far enough away that they have complete access to both holes. I see them trying to use a tool to line up the holes but wondered if there's a sequence. In any rate they have complet access.
I think back to when I last had a windshield put it. It was in the early 80s and I distinctly remember it was done by one guy from frame to on the car. Amazing. I remember any trouble either.
The first time I did it was by myself. The second time I paid someone else to do it. :)
Gary if they are pros; the most you need to do is get assurance that the spacers are in place....then let them do their job. Why? because if they do it wrong you have a new windshield as I did...Pros did my windshield but the tech forgot to put the spacers back in and one block from the shop it cracked in the middle and so I turned around and went back....aksed if the spacers were in and they thought so but the manager asked the tech in front of me and there on his bench were the 3/16 inch spacers that go on either side of the bottom post to frame. Result another 350 dollar windshield (tinted) free. 4 hours later instead of a week. But be sure to supply all the rubber and seals to them it is less of a hassle.
OMG Oh, instead of using the OE bolts, go get a tapered wood screw---it'll rethread itself & pull the windshield frame down as it works up the taper (I think one of the '70's GM cars used those tapered bolts to hold the hood on)
DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here's the trick and it works VERY WELL. It's right here in your favorite BBS
<http://www.mgexperience.net/article/windscreen-install.html>
Jerry. I'm just trying to help them into a better mood and do the job correctly which may be impossible. I just went through Lindsey's Resto book and they don't mention too much about getting it in.
Tom. THANKS!
I remember when someone posted that method way back when on this board and I remember Tom's enthusiam about it. I used it myself and had no real problem getting the bolts to line up. My big issue was that one fender had been replaced, which made the windscreen frame to vent window frame alignment a pain. I had to elongate the bolt holes on the passenger side so I could slide the windscreen foward just a bit more.
But, the C-clamp method worked great. I had that windscreen on and off the car a dozen times trying to get it right.
I'm about as enthusiastic as Tom when it comes to forcing wood screws in an aluminum machine thread hole. Doing so is one way to ensure being called a DPO sometime in the future! LOL!
I have had long enough to calm so as not to use profanity here.
Thank God that Tom B remembered about the archived article about using the C clamps. They make me nervous, but because of that I am at my best game!
The clamps make a 3 man and a boy job just a guy job.
That all of you have not read up on that really makes me wonder if anything I say here ever gets read or considered.
It's been years that I have used that and hoped you all would follow. Good info.
Wray, the OMG was for the term tapered wood screw. I don't think I ever showed any enthusiam for that. Now a self tapping machined 3/8" bolt is a whole nother story.
Chris, that artical changed my mind about doing the job for customers. With using you C Clamp trick. I am installing new windshield glass and seals for customers and am able to make a buck on the job.
Chris. I want to thank you for that article. I'm going to make those maniacs read it before they come back out. I did read it in the past when I was researching this in the archives but I read it months before I had to do the job and forgot about it when this whole mess appeared. The only reason I was letting them install it was because its the same price to fit the glass to the frame as doing the whole job. Thinking they're professionals AND just did a MGB two days prior they should have it down.
I feel more confident with the article and scared of those claps all at the same time.
Wait a minute. In seeing that article again my car doesn't have that sheet metal box covering the post slots. Its all exposed as in you can open the door and look right into the bottoms of the windshield posts and screws.
Am I missing some part of my car?
Yep. You're missing two metal covers. You don't have to have them, they are just for looks. Mine have been off my car for many years. I just keep forgetting to reinstall them.
But Steve! This is L.A. We're all about looks. That's why plastic surgeons are the new ambulance chasers. Who cares about anything else. :bouncing:
Learn something new everyday on this board about a car I've owned for most of my life. I guess one of the windshield people forgot to put it on last time.
Tony, got a good pair I can buy for a 1971?
I didn't write that article, just have used it for quite awhile. The piece you are missing is a tin cover that is riveted into place.
Chris. You have a pair I can sand and paint? PM me a price if you do.
I followed Chris" advice on a search for this forum. The C-clamp worked like a charm. Did it by myself. I did use a little extendable mirror to line the holes up. I had to use a round file to extend one hole on the passengers forward inner well. This allowed me to line up the windshied frame better to the vent frame. I did not pull the dash.
Also grinding a truncated cone on the ends of the threads and then chasing the threads really helps to line up the bolts and make tham easy to start. Mine had plenty of thread space left after this. And a rat tail file in one bolt hole and the coned bolt in the other - actually kinda easy.........
I'm disassembling a car right now - I can pull the covers if you need - just let me know.
Thanks Tony! Another member emailed me in the meantime. I think I'm good to go on this one.
Tom B, das what I meant. Never heard of the wood screw thing but I remember the first time the C-clamp method came up.
To recap, yep, I know you were:
A) Very much for the C-clamp method.
B) Very much against the wood screw method.
Yea Wray, the first time I tried it I was blown away how easy it made the job.
I've gotta put a new windshield in the MG I just got from Joe Reed - I'll try it, Tom.