Windshield/Vent Windows

I think I found out why the passenger side vent window rubber is too tight against the windshield. The passenger side fender, I think, has been replaced at some time and sits further back.

That being said, what are some options to move the windshield forward that half inch needed to get the pressure off the vent window?

Would it be feasible to elongate the bolt holes in the inner panel to let the windshield frame move forward? Moving the fender doesn't seem to be feasible.

The vent window can't be adjusted enough to help.

I've removed the little panel that covers where the frame goes through the fender so I can see it from underneath.

The brain trust will have to come with an answer. I'm counting on you guys. Tom, step in here and help a fellow Carolina boy.

Boy Wray, I'm for sure not the one to give advice on windshield. You know a week ago I was posting about putting the frame to body seal in the windshield frame. Well, I spent 6 hours getting that damn thing in. When I went to put the frame back on the car it poped out about 10" on one end. So now I'm back to square one. I tried today to get it back in with the old screwdriver methoid. After working with it till the tips of my fingers were numb. I got frustrated and pulled it out. I'm going to try the pull through way tomarrow. I still have another one to do. I swear I will NOT do this job EVER again. I'm going to have over 10 hours into this dumb job. You would think that BL would have come up with a better idea over the 17 years they made the B. On your vent seal situation. Have you tried loosening all the bolts of the frame and then closing the door to set everything?

Wray, is the fender has been replaced, was the car hit in the front at some point? and if so is it square? you can get some idea by measuring from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle on each side. the distance should be the same. if not, it's time for a visit to the neighborhood frame rack

Tom, when we put mine in, 2 of us inched it along using those small plastic bodyman's knives, they look like little files, but the tip comes to a point,almost. They have enough flex to follow the edge and keep things going. Even then, it took several attempts. I keep one in the glove as a soveiner.

Lady Luck must have been sitting on my shoulder when I did mine. It was the first MG I'd ever worked on, I did it by myself, it took a while, but I didn't have any big problems with it. I tend t just keep piss-anting something like that until it works for me no matter how long it takes.

I thought it was pretty easy too!! Man I must be dumb!! Lucky me!! :o)

Tom, this thing is driving me nuts. As it turns out the driver side fender was replaced. It's got to be since the three bolts on the inside are missing. That side lines up fine vent/rubber/windshield pillar. The pass side is the one I can't get to fit right. I've tried lossening the bolts but that gives very little play on the frame. The vent window is loose; I noticed that it is kicked in at the top so it touches the pillar without the rubber. I can't get the brackets to adjust right at the bottom of the vent assy. No matter how I try to position things, the pass side kicks the windshield frame up a little when the door is shut.

Maybe the whole frame is off center, although I don't see how. Unless the shims between the pillars and body need to be adjusted. When you tighten up the bolts, it's in the place it's going to stay. If I could just get it forward a 1/2" I'd be okay.

I should be riding around with the top down and the heater on. It's 60 deg and nice. But noooo, I gotta be fighting this.

About the only option I can see from this distance is to hog out the bolt holes like you said above, but a half an inch sure is a long way to go. If that was caused by the car being hit the fender would be into the door edge too.

Is the line between the vent frame and W/S pillar straight or tighter at one end?

It seems that we have never established a starting point on this thing.
Try measuring from the back top corner of the vent frame to the back edge of each door to see if they are both the same. Then measure from the top corners of the W/S frame to the rear of the door jam and see how that compares. You need to get some measurement matched to the left side to establish a starting point and know exactly what you need to do to fit things up. As long as you're trying to do two things at once and have no base line on either you're chasing your tail.

Nothing makes sense at this point. The frame to vent window angle is not parallel unless I push up on the frame and dog the bolts down. But it's still not far enough forward. Plus, the vent window touches at the top. So, I need to address both issues somehow. That's why I'm checking the lower bracket situation on the vent windows to see if they're right.

I have done several of these things. Although none have been what I would call easy. I have never had one that has given me this much trouble. I use to call myself knowing how to do this. Man, and I have another one waiting on me to do too. Neadless to say it has put me behind on my jobs. I had to get off it today and do a clutch job that I've had waiting in my shop for over a week. It's a lot more fun and less frustrating. Maybe I'll make a little mone on it as well.

I don't know Wray. The vent window is pretty much fixed. Due in part to the way the front leg is bolted. There isn't much if any ajustment to be had there. All the lower rear leg ajustment is for is the window track.

OK. The vent window hits at the top and its pretty well in a fixed position. Elongate the bottom hole to the rear and the top one toward the front. That will let the W/S frame tilt forward quite a way without making the holes very much bigger. Look at what happens there and you'll figure the rest out pretty quick.

BUT!!! If you do that, something else will bite you in the ass!! Find out where the problem is Wray!! Try and measure and see if things match!! GOOD LUCK!!!!

I said that 5 posts above this one.

I just agreed with you!!