Got all of the parts sand-blasted and painted. The oil pan, pulley, timing chain cover, valve covers, and end plates look great. Used a hammered texture on one valve cover and the timing chain cover. Just got my can of Glyptal, and coated the inside of the oil pan and valve cover. Plan on doing the timing chain cover next.

Got it all apart.

I drained the oil, and knocked off the end plate. Then realized that an engine stand would be ideal. My wonderful wife volunteered to run the oil to the auto parts store and buy an engine hoist while I continued working. What a wife!

Got the engine onto the engine stand, and removed the timing chain section, and the front plate.

When trying to remove the cam, it got blocked about 3 inches from the back. I then found out that the dizzy driver shaft was still in, and removed it. After that, there was no stopping me. Within the next 2 hours, I had the cam, pistons, crankshaft all removed. The engine block is now all bare and bagged up on the engine stand, and the parts are all bagged and labeled in a large box.

The head, oil pan, timing chain cover, and end plates are in the trunk waiting to be delivered to the shop to be degreased/causitc dipped and then blasted.

I need to review how to blast a head. I am not sure what to cover, as far as water/oil sleeves, valve guides, etc. I will be replacing the valve guides, so not sure if covering them would be required.

Guess I have a bit more research to do.

Got the heads dissassembled. The valve springs were a bit of a pain. The first valve spring compressor that I bought fell apart on the first attempt. The second one (a deluxe! ) worked like a champ with the assistance of a small hammer. After getting the heads broken down, I tackled the block. Off came the side panels, and out came the tappets. One was a bit of a bugger, but I was finally able to wiggle it free. Then came the clutch plate and then the flywheel.

I was having trouble trying to hold the flywheel stationary while I tried to free the bolts, and found a nice solution. I had the engine on the ground, and put a VERY large ratchet/socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. The handle rested on the ground, and stopped movement of the crankshaft. Then I was able to remove all of the bolts fairly easily. I broke a 3/4" socket on one, but it wasn't the best made socket, anyway.

The rear oil seal looked very good with no signs of leaking.

Now is time to drain the remaining oil and then remove the rear plate.

I have the engines, and will be rebuilding them and using one as a base for the supercharger addition to the B. The other engine will be a nice standby, or for my son's car once he gets a little older. He is only 21 months, afterall.

The first step toward rebuilding is the removal of the heads and getting those cleaned up.