GILBERT DUPRE's Journal - Clutch Rattle

GILMGA Gil Dupre
Gil Dupre Gold Member usa   Top Contributor
Chattanooga, TN, USA

Total Posts: 95 Latest Post: 2011-03-02 05:29:47
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Link to this journal: http://www.mgexperience.net/journal/GILMGA






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Clutch Rattle

Gil Dupre Gold Member usa — Posted on The MG Experience
Wednesday March 2, 2011 5:29 AM
Engine is out and inspected wear of release bearing. The carbon was worn down inside the arm casting so the arm was rubbing against the outside of the clutch pressure plate operating face causing the rattle. Also one of the bearing retainer clips was not in the proper place for retaining the bearing probably causing it to wear un even.
The operating arm pivot bolt shows signs of wear so i will replace it and the bushing inside the arm. I plan on using a roller bearing throwout to eliminate the carbon wearing out.
Waiting on parts now and cleaing engine compartment and touching up the cross member and engine while it is out.
I believe I have all the parts I need to replace gaskets etc. Im replacing the pilot bearing also. Why not?

I decided after much thought and seeing a roller bearing, I decided to go back with the carbon faced throwout bearing.



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Comments on "Journal Entry: Clutch Rattle" –

Comment by George Heissenberger at 2011-10-29 15:18:17
I'm Curious Gil on why the decision for the carbon throw out bearing. I am considering what to do when time comes to replace my clutch also.

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Clutch Rattle

Gil Dupre Gold Member usa — Posted on The MG Experience
Sunday February 27, 2011 7:54 AM
When depressing the clutch peddle almost to the floor, I get a rattling sound. At the advice of this forum I need to change the clutch and thowout bearing.
Of course this requires the removal of the engine.
Since Wednesday I have been removing all the junk needed to free up the engine. I elected to remove the engine only. I may be sorry later.
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Drain water and disconnect oil, fuel,water , ac lines
3. Remove carburators and manifold
4. Remove radiator and AC condenser.
5. Disconnect wires from alternator remove alternator
6. Remove AC compressor
7. Remove distributor
8. Remove starter
9. Remove bolts from engine to transmission
10.Remove front engine mount bolts from front engine plate.
Connect adjustable level engine hoist device and lift with chain fall or what ever device you have for lifting.
Inspect clutch devices and operating arms for wear. Check for leak from front transmission seal and rear engine seal and all gaskets on engine and transmission
Order what you need. While you wait for parts clean engine, engine compartment and surrounding areas and remove rust and paint as needed.



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Moss Tourist Trophy MGA Exhaust P/N 454-879

Gil Dupre Gold Member usa — Posted on The MG Experience
Wednesday September 1, 2010 5:18 AM
I had the luck of the draw to be selected to install and evaluated the Moss Tourist Trophy MGA polished stainless steel exhaust. This is a 3 piece system for shipping purposes.A front pipe connects to the exhaust manifold flange, a rear pipe that has the midlle hanger bracket and the muffler.
This is a highly polished to a mirror finish almost to pretty to put under a car. It can be installed with existing hangers and one extra clamp. I recommend purchasing new hanging hardware.
I took a couple of days removing the old exhaust and installing this one. I believe it can be installed in about 4 to 5 hours however.
The fit was perfect. I did a loose fit and positioned the muffler so the exhaust pipe would point inward and slightly down and clear the gas tank by about an inch. Then I tightened all the bolts.
The sound was very nice with a nice throaty sound through the gears and downshifting and a mellow rumble at cruising speed.

Highly recommended. Now I need mirrors to show it off.


NEW EXHAUST FROM REAR

NEW EXHAUST FROM REAR




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Back On The Road

Gil Dupre Gold Member usa — Posted on The MG Experience
Sunday July 4, 2010 8:42 AM
In my previous journals I was discussing the noise I had in my MKII differential, what I found and my course of action. I had never tackled this and the factory manual required a bunch of gages and measurement. First I noted where the pinion gears meshed and by feel the backlash between the two. Then I took the caps off the differential carrier bearings and marked which side eachl cap fot its original side. Since I didnt have the special tools I used my engineering training. As I took each bearing off of the differential gear cluster I carefully saved the shims. Then I measured each bearing race for thickness and recorded it. When I got the new bearings I measured the thickness of the race and recorded it. The new bearing and the old bearing races were the same as the old ones. Of course I bought the most expensive bearing that the mfg made for this application with the closest manufacturing tollerence. If they had been off by more that .001 I would have added or subtracted shims as necessary.
I then removed the pinion shaft and gear per the factory instructions.
I had made spanner for this many years ago to be able to change the pinion oils seal. I carefully saved the pinion bearing spacer shims and also the thurst washer under the rear pinion bearing. I measured the old bearing races and recorded and the shims. As it turned out the rear pinion bearing depth was the same as the new one so I was able to use the same thrust washer. The front pinion shaft bearing was .064in less in depth than the old one. I ordered more shims to make up the difference then by fitting several time was able to get the proper loadeng between the front and rear pinion bearing. I then installed the differential carriage bearing cage back on the front housing checking to make sure the pinion and ring gears mated properly.
I then installed the gear chunk back in the rear axle housing. Put in new axle gaskets and seals then slid the axles in place. Filled with gear oil and started the engine and put in gear to listen for noise. No noise noted and smooth operation.
Today after church I took it off the lift and took it for a 40 mille spin around the block. (actuall through the local MG roads) It was the so quiet I could hear the fuel pump click.
WHAT THRILL TO HAVE MY BABY BACK ON THE ROAD.



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REAR END NOISE

Gil Dupre Gold Member usa — Posted on The MG Experience
Tuesday June 29, 2010 3:47 PM
I have been working on replacing bearings in my diferential after catastophic failure of one carrier bearings noted in the last journal.
I pulled bearings and cleaned out the housing of brass bearing cage pieces. I ordered new bearings but the ones I recieved for the carrier from my supplier with Moss part number came with steel ball cages. The originals had bronze cages so I found some that matched the original. I put new pinion bearings in also. I found when installing the pinion bearings I needed some shims to preload the roller bearings. I got those yesterday. I put the differentioal gears and pinion back together today. I will probably install the chunk back into the housing soon.



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NOISE FIX

Gil Dupre Gold Member usa — Posted on The MG Experience
Thursday May 20, 2010 5:37 PM
Today I finish pulling the chunk out of my differential on the MGA.
Pulled the other rear axle, propeller shaft and then the chunk.
Disassembled the gear assembly from the chunk housing. One bearing fell apart. It was in pieces and little pieces all over the inside of the differential housin.
The more I disassembled I found that the pinion shaft beatings were full of shavings from the other bearing failure. The gears were spared thank goodneww.
Ordered from LLBC new bearing and gaskets and seals.
Ill clean it up while i wait for parts.


100 2439

100 2439




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