I received the Holley 350 CFM 2 barrel carb and manifold adaptor. When I purchased these from Summitt Racing they stated clearly that the adaptor might not fit. They where right, however, careful drilling and tapping of the manifold and a couple of new holes in the adaptor and it was fine.

I installed the carb and without touching a thing it started with no choke and idled at 600 rpm. Under load I experienced some surging but this was cured by redoing the timing. Mixture setup is very simple once the timing is set.

I used a Specter carb air intake and reducers to connect to a K&N cold air filter mounted in front of the rad support. I still have more than a 1/2 inch of hood clearance between the carb air intake and the bonnet.

We have put a little over 100 miles on this setup and it is great. Anyone want a rebuilt Rochester 2e at a really good price?

For those of you contemplating this conversion, I find the headers to be very hot, I have seen them glowing red. I will take them off this fall when I store the car and have them coated as I understand from folks on this forum this reduces heat considerably. I would recommend this be done before original installation.

I have added some pictures. You will note the car still needs body work and paint and that is the next major undertaking, until then we plan to drive it and enjoy, I looks pretty good from 100 feet at 60 MPH. The front end is still a bit high so I need to address that, the tach and finish the electrics.

We find the exhaust resonates unpleasantly above 2500 rpm, MAGNAFLOW have recommended that my Delta 40 muffler be connected directly to the resonator and tail pipes added as this mellows out the resonance. I will let you know when I have done this.

I was very careful when I removed the four cylinder motor mounts to save them in case I want to return to that in the future. I can safely say now this this will not happen while we have the car.

In summary we installed a 92 Camaro 3.1 V6 and NWC T5 from an 84 Camaro.

I purchased the installation kit from CCE, HTOB from BMC and speedo cable from the T5 to the OEM MGB speedo from D&D Fabrication. To keep it simple I converted from fuel injection to carb and distributor from an 82 S-10. I used a 6 cylinder Jag tach internals in the OEM MGB case with good results.

I had some issues with the body of our B, we knew it had been in an accident when we bought it but it has a rust free structure. As a condition of purchase the car had to pass a check on a frame machine which at a cost of 450.00 and the report said it was within factory specs. This was not true and I did not discover this until I tried to install the V6 and ran into body interference where there should not have been any. Cost me another 400.00 to get it fixed. The shop that did the original inspection back in 2002 is no longer in business.

Once that was complete the install was simple. Everything fit as it was advertised. The quality of the purchased parts was great and help from the vendors readily available. I did have an issue with setting up the HTOB but was able to get it right with help from this forum.

I had trouble setting up the timing due to interference with either the firewall or the valve cover, the tolerances are very tight but again with direction from the forum was able to find the right combination of distributor gear mesh, cap and dist. position to make it work.

Using the Rochester carb was a huge mistake. I rebuilt the carb but it was an early emission with many vacuum ports and vacuum operated progressive linkage between the primaries and secondaries. I could not get the carb to idle, it either stalled or ran at 2500 rpm. The problem seems to be between the vacuum circuits the vacuum operated secondary and the vacuum port for the dist. advance. When running at constant rpm it was very smooth and responsive, gas mileage was better than the tired old 4. Removing the vacuum operated parts and disconnecting the vacuum advance made the car a bit more drivable on the trip but unacceptable long term. As a result I have ordered a Holley 350 CFM carb from Summitt Racing. They were extremely helpful and I highly recommend them.

We finished up the conversion in early May and left on a tour of the Gaps and Notches of Main, New Hampshire and Vermont on the 28th with 15 other MGs from our local club. I was nervous about such an ambitious trial but we committed to the run last fall.

Just 2 days before we left the new OEM GM starter I purchased shorted out. Replaced that on the Thursday before departure. All appeared to be OK, although my alternator was only putting out 12.4 volts. I had it tested and the young fellow’s tester said all OK, I was nervous but took his word. By the time we reached our starting point for the trip the battery was dead and I had to keep a high level of revs to keep the car running. Luckily I used a 1980 Camaro 305 V8 alternator which is very common, readily available and cheap. After a one hour delay we started out to catch-up with the tour.

This conversion transforms the car and I made good use of the additional power and torque with which I successfully twisted a rear spring and broke a shock mount. Parabollics are great springs for stock 1800 engines but are not strong enough for added power. The upper tube shock adaptors I purchased were not strong enough for the added power. I am not sure whether the springs or shock mount went first. Now we are back I have had original B spring set rebuilt and modified the tube shock mounts with grade 8 bolts welded into the upper brackets. All seems good so far. I replaced the Monroe Sensa-Trac units with Monroe air-lift in the hope that we can eliminate bottoming out on future trips when we are well loaded.

Our trip covered 2400 miles so all in all a great break in adventure. Great friends, great roads and we are very pleased with the results and my wife loves the lighter steering feel, more flexible power and less need to row the gear shift unless you really want to move.

Future upgrades, our exhaust note while pleasing is a bit too resonant for long touring so I will be making a change there. The front end is still about an inch too high so I need to consider some means to lower the front.

There has been a lot of discussion on the forum about the NWC T5. I am using the standard MGB 3.9 rear end and 195/65 x15 tires. Spacing between gears is excellent (900 rpm between the first 4 gears and about 700 for 5th O/D when shifting at 2500). 70 MPH is a bit high at 2700 RPM especially now with the exhaust resonance. Considering how little highway travel we do I am not considering any other changes to the rear end.

I am continuing to upgrade the electrical system with relays and new fuse panel. The front is complete and I will do the rear next. Then we will drive for the rest of the year and hopefully attack the body next winter.

I should have the new carb, adaptor and air intake next week and will do another update, with pictures, at that time.

I had it out today and love it. The car is transformed. Power, smooth and lighter steering, which my wife loves.

The following narrative explains how I setup the HTOB the second time. The first time the clutch slipped under power.

In the first the important item is the upper right stud which replaces one of the seal retaining bolts.
The second shows the HTOB in place from the back of the bell housing.
The 3rd shows the stud again, the length needs to be long enough to catch the ears of the HTOB but short enough not to contact the pressure plate.
The next 2 show the HTOB in place on the input shaft prior to assembly on the bell housing and also the relationship of the stud to the bearing connections.
I must admit that this is the easiest means of calculating the shim thickness needed. I used a simple straight edge and a digital caliper. Measured first from the pressure plate fingers to the face of the bell housing. Then measured from the surface of the trans that meets the bell housing to the flange of the input shaft. I subtracted one from the other and ended up with .085. Closest I could get was one 0.45 shim leaving .040 clearance. From an assembly point of view I think it is easier to do the measurement with this method and them remove the bell housing and bolts it to the trans, install the HTOB and then intall the assembly on the engine.

I drove it today and it is very strong. Floored it in every gear with no slipping at all. Power shifted and got wheel spin in 1, 2 & 3. Did a hard drag type start. Never got any slip and the shift is tight, smooth and without drag.

As you can tell I am ecstatic. Some electrics to complete and an air induction setup. Then I am going to look for a hopped up Civic and have some fun

The HTOB arrived this week and I got it installed fine.

Put the engine transmission in yesterday and had interference between the passenger foot well on the corner just below the charcoal filter shelf and the bolt on the right head. Not sure why I did not get that during the trial fit.

Relieved the corner with my hydraulic pry system and now it fits perfectly.

I will work on the miscellaneous connections this week, fuel, electrics, cooling etc. Should be running by Friday, I hope.

I have put together a 92 Camaro 3.1 V6 with 2 barrel carb, manifold and GM HEI Ignition from an 82 S-10. The trans is a 94 Camaro T5 and bell housing.

After cleaning up the grunge and applying some paint to the engine bay I tried a first fit today. Lots of ins and outs all basically surrounding the clutch assembly. I tried to use a Triumph slave mounted to a custom bracket as per Bills posts but there is just not enough room without a significant modification to the tunnel and floor under the gas pedal.

I admitted defeat and ordered an HTOB from BMC. There is just no way to make that system work with the T5 bell housing. I suspect the S-10 will work as Scott and Bill have discussed at length but at this point I could not find an S-10 part and figured I would go with what works.

Will remove the clutch bracket tomorrow and do the final fit and measurements. Take it our for a second and last painting and be ready for final install when the HTOB arrives.

Pictures later.

We pulled Old Yellar off the road in Oct and pulled the 1800 and trans. Found some more poorly done body work from the PO's accident.
Lots of grunge and black spray undercoat.
Found a wire brush on my angle grinder best to take off everything.

Next is to remove the motor mounts, clean everything up (I hope) and put on a coat of primrose.

A few more pictures to add to the story.