Planning on a trip? Here is a list of what I carried in the trunk of my ’73 for my road trip. Other than these items, the most important item was a working cell phone programmed with my insurance company that will provide 24-7 towing if or when needed. I can call one number for towing where ever I am at. I also carry an inexpensive digital camera, and a spiral notepade and an assortment of writing utensils.


GENERAL:
Spare Tire (checked for pressure),
Tire pressure gauge, Jack & Jack handle, Lug Nut wrench,
8 x 12 blue tarp, Coveralls,
Two flat boards (for Jacking), Two 2x4-12” (for blocking),
Reflector Set, Folding knife,
Jumper cables, Tow Strap,
Fire extinguisher, Flashlight,
Old Shop Manual, Moss catalog

TOOLS:
Spark plug wrench,
Small Flat Screwdriver,
Small set of ignition wrenches,
Medium & Large Phillips and Flat screwdrivers,
Combination Philips/flat screwdriver,
Pocket Phillips & flat screwdriver,
Long-shank flat & Phillips screwdriver,
12V test light,
Standard Pliers,
Needle Nose Pliers,
Waterpump Pliers,
ViseGrips,
1/4” and 3/8” socket set
Combination wrench set 1/4" to 3/4"
Long 1/2 and 9/16 wrench,
Wire brush,

SUPPLIES:
Bottle of motor oil, Can Penetrating Oil,
Bottle Gas Line "Heet" (De-Waterer)
Bottled water, (drinking, clean-up, or coolant),
Alternator Belt,
Universal fuel pump (w/ adapters & clamps),
Fuel Filter (w/ clamps),
Two feet ¼” fuel hose, (w/ clamps)
Two feet of ½ inch hose w/ clamps,
Plugs, Points, Condenser, Cap, & Rotor,
Taillight, turn signal and marker bulbs,
Two 18 inch jumper wires w/clamps on each end,
Box misc. fuses,
Roll of 14 gauge wire (black), Roll of 16 gauge wire (red),
Electrical tape, Self sealing/sticking tape,
Duct tape, Roll of utility wire,
Tube of RTV black sealant,
Fix-a-Flat,
Tube of Goop hand cleaner,
Red Shop Rags,
Blue disposable paper towels,

Now load up and go for it!

It would seem that I have the '73 fairly well sorted out with all the issued pretty well resolved. The issue now is what to do with it. Do I continue on with a possible Rivergate conversion? Do I sell and start with another rebuild?

I see the Rivergate as being about a $1500.00 additional expense so that would be a factor.

Reliability wise I feel good about how the car "runs", but it has a whine in 1st gear that bugs me and I dislike the lack of a 1st gear syncro in the standard transmission when shifting. Also, the addition of the 5 speed would allow the motor to slow down a bit when on the highway.

Swapping out the 5 speed would allow me to perform an engine bay clean up which (to me) is in need of completion.

I have also read a bit about the "poor man's" overdrive (sort of) consisting of swapping the 3.9 rear axle for a 3.7 rear axle. This would seem to be easier and perhaps quicker.

The rear axle swap out would be reason for a going over of the rear brakes and suspension.

What to do! What to do!

One of the things that bugged me about driving the '73 Midget was a "clunk" that I felt when turning the steering wheel. About every half turn it would just "clunk". This was heard and also felt as a slight resistance or hesitation while attempting to turn in either direction.

I felt this condition to be a possible safety issue so I decided to attempt a fix. I removed the three screws that retained the plastic collar on the steering column that covered the ignition switch, wiper switch, and turn signal switch. Once off I used a Dremel tool to cut a slot in each of the two screws holding the ignition switch in place. I later replaced these "security bolts" with new 8mm-1.5 cap screws.

After some effort I was unable to get the plunger for the column lock to completely retract so I used the Dremel tool to grind the lug off. This removed the function of the steering column interlock, but as it was a choice between doing that and the column possibly locking up at some unknown future inopportune time I felt this was the better option.

The SU clone fuel pump failed on my '73 Midget. This really should not be unexpected due to the amount of crud that I discovered in the tank. The pump was a New Zeland made clone. I gave thought to replacing it with a generic universal "Mr. Gasket" type pump, or even mounting the "Mr. Gasket" pump as an auxillary standby pump, but ended up deciding on finding some type of SU branded replacement.

After some searching, I located a SU AUF214 pump for ~$100.00. The general wisdom on these pumps seem to indicate a psi rating around 2-3psi and this fell into that range.

The mounting was not an issue as the failed old pump was mounted with the OEM brackets and this pump matched correctly. I also used a little over one foot of 1/4 high pressure fuel hose to replace the old inlet and outlet connection hoses.

After connecting the ground wire & positive wire to the pump I reconnected the two small vents hose for the pump. These are needed to ensure proper breathing of the point and diaphragm areas and are not to be neglected.

Once the pump was operational it promptly filled the clear filter next to the carbs with a load of fresh rusty fuel. I removed the old filter and allowed the pump to run a couple of liters of fuel directly into some spare containers in order to flush the lines. After replacing the filter with a new one I reconnected & checked the lines for leaks. None were found, so I fired it back up and all was well.

Interesting to note that the old pump never kept the filter totally full when running as there was always a bubble of air visible in the clear filter. The new pump filled the filter and no bubble. I don't know if this was due to the old pump being on its last legs or if it was due to the PSI or GPM rating of the new pump.


As a final project on this install I decided to add an inline fue to protect the unfused fuel pump circuit. This was quite easy to perform. The fuel pump is supplied 12V power from the white wire leaving the ignition switch. The white lead leaving the ignition switch travels about 10 to 12 inches to the left side of the column where it meets a connector. On the other side of the connector are two white wires, one just a bit larger than the other. It is this larger wire that feeds the fuel pump. The other smaller wire goes to the fuse box. By disconnecting the larger wire at this point it is possible to easily wire in a hidden switch, an inline fuse, or even both.

I have been considering performing the "Rivergate 5 speed" conversion.
Overall I see several benefits from this concept.

First will be the newer transmission.
Second will be the 5th gear overdrive.
Third will be resolving the "first gear whine" that is present.
Fourth will be the opportunity to clean and detail my engine compartment.

As to disadvantages there will also be some to consider.
First will be the cost. I figure I am pretty much at the point of diminishing returns now in that I have invested about all that the car is worth and any additional will not be returnd.
Second will be the amount of work again.
Third would be the fact that the car will be off the road just when the summer is shaping up for a few 'top down cruises'.
Fourth will be ??

So what do you think?
Should I continue this thought or just let it drop and be satisfied as it is?

GM 10-SI QUICK & SIMPLE Wiring Instructions:

The following is a set of generic procedures for setting up a GM 10si alternator. The 10si is an earlier version of the 12si. Note that it MUST be in a NEGATIVE (-) ground environment! A GM 10si will NOT work in a POSITIVE (+) ground configuration.

The standard GM 10-SI alternator has three terminals, however only two wires on it will get connected directly to the car. On a 10si (or 12si) alternator the top two spade connectors need to be setup like this [- -] and NOT like this [ | | ]. The second design is the older yet late 1960s alternator design that needs an externally mounted voltage regulator. The following instructions are for using NEW wires and NOT existing wires. (YOU can modify this by testing you existing wires to determine how they are setup.)

INSTRUCTIONS

STEP ONE:
Using the 16 gauge wire on the alernator plug adapter, connect the number “2” terminal directly to the “BAT” post terminal on the back of the alternator. This wire will only need to be about 4 inches long. (Looking at alternator from rear the #2 spade is on the right side).

STEP TWO:
Connect a 12 gauge wire from the alternator's “BAT” screw post terminal to the large post on the solenoid.


STEP THREE:
The number “1” terminal should be connected to the ignition switch circuit with 16 gauge wire so the alternator only receives power to excite it when the key is “on”. A good spot for this connection would be the extra (unused) #5 (white wire) spade on the fusebox. (Looking at alternator from rear the #1 spade is on the left side)

NOTE: The #1 circuit is where you need to place a one amp / 50 volt inline diode. This needs to be installed here to prevent backward current flow through the alternator when the ignition switch is “off”. THE BATTERY WILL DISCHARGE WITHOUT THIS. Check your electronics shop such as RadioShack for a source the diode.

((Some thought here is that it "might" be possible to wire this through one of the existing wires that go to the red charge light on the dash. I just do not know concerning that possibility))

NOTES:
This installation will be greatly simplified by purchasing a suitable alternator socket pigtail repair part from your local autoparts house.

If you do this, just put 1/4 inch eye terminal on the #2 wire and put it over the alternator battery post.
Next, attach your 10 or 12 gauge wire to the same "BAT" terminal and run it to the large post on the solenoid.
Finally, attach the diode IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION to the #1 wire from the alternator and run This wire to the #5 white spade post on your fuse box.

Remember that the whole key issue for this to work correctly is the diode! The diode allows the 12V current to flow in one direction only. When connecting it, it needs to be installed so the current flows in the direction of the alternator, but not in the other way.

When using a crimp terminal I always use a piece of shrink tubing on it afterwards to seal it from the elements.

PARTS LIST
------------
One diode
Misc lengths shrink tubing
One alternator repair pigtail
Two 14/16 gauge wire crimp connectors
One 12 gauge wire terminal with 1/4 inch eye
One 12 gauge wire terminal with 5/16 inch eye
One 14/16 gauge spade terminal
One 14/16 guage wire terminal with 1/4 eye
6 feet of 12 guage wire
6 feet of 16 gauge wire


OTHER INFO:
An excellent artical on the 10si alternator can be found here at this link.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
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PERSONAL:
My personal history is that of 45+ years hands on mechanical experience both working for others and in my own Ford Tractor dealership in NE MO. The above configuration was something that was developed for use on the "9N-2N-8N" series and 600-800 series Ford Tractors. It was also used on some 2000-5000 tractors. While I agree that they are "tractors", the electrical theory for operation is the same.