The Trunk:
There is another major issue or dilemma here. I have discovered that the rear portion of the trunk floor has also rusted through. The flooring here has two rather disturbing somewhat large holes around the spring bracket area. This is somewhat critical as this area provides the attaching points for the rear suspension spring brackets which support the entire rear body of the car. The easiest thing would be to take another piece of 14 gauge steel about 8 x 45 and install it by first slightly dropping the fuel tank and the rear spring hanger brackets. With these out of the way the new steel could be slid into place and again spot welded (or bonded) as needed. Some additional checking seems to indicate that two 1/8 x 3 x 12 inch pieces of flat steel would be required for supplemental strengthening for the spring hanger support. With all of this, at least the car would go back to a level ride. I expect that sourcing this will be another $100.00 to $150.00 expense for the steel from C&J Welding. Another purchase would be another tube of the bonding agent from Fastenal for $40.00.

Electrical System Overview:
What can I say about the electrical system and related devices? ALL of the electrical devices were problematic or just completely inoperative. Some issues were due to corrosion, some issues were due to just total stupidity of some DPO. Why would anyone plug red wires into a blue-white wire socket, or green wires into a blue-red socket? Why would anyone in this day & age just twist wires together and half way tape them hoping it may seal? The right front turn signal is missing. The left side marker light was not there at all as the left front fender was replaced at some point with an older style fender without a marker light. The right headlight worked on high beam only. The left headlight was connected to the “red” marker light circuit instead of the correct blue headlamp circuit. The rear taillights, turn signals and brake lights were all not operational. The reverse lights did not work due to the bulb enclosures being badly corroded. The rear side markers were also semi-operational due to grounding issues. Many of the black ground (12V -) wires were just left dangling unconnected. Much of the front light system (and some of the rear) wiring was only stripped and “twist connected” without any real effort made for adequate wrapping or weather proofing. Despite their bad reputation, Lucas electrical systems are really not that bad if attention is directed to maintaining the grounds and complete circuits.

I located a useable set of front turn signals and a left side marker on eBay for ~$75.00 to replace the missing items. I completely disconnected the entire front and rear wiring system then cleaned and replaced the joints prior to correctly reconnecting the wires. I also purchased a dozen “Lucar” (?) type connectors and a complete set of light gaskets (these keep the water out of the lights) from Matthew’s in Birmingham. This was another $75.00 expense. I ran a secondary ground wire from each of the six lights on the rear of the car to allow for a new ground as this is often a weakness of the “Lucas - Prince of Darkness” electronics that is often overlooked. I have wire in place (but not yet connected) to do the same for the six front lights. All connections are cleaned and polished followed by a dab of dielectric grease to help seal the connection. FWIW, a .22 caliber bore brush works great to clean the female wiring connectors.

Alternator
Not much to say here, other than it appears to work. It is an original Lucas alternator with a built in regulator. Sometimes a GM 10si design is substituted to gain a higher charging ampere rating.

Starter
Likewise, not much to say other than it works. It is an original design. If ever needed, a replacement option sometimes used is the compact permanent magnet gear reduction design. I have also read on the internet that a Geo Metro starter can be used.

Battery:
Again, what can I say? There was none. This was another expense of ~ $100.00 from AutoZone for a battery that would fit in the space allowed by design. Also needed were two new battery cables that were another $25.00 expense. I used the original configuration for the positive (hot) cable and attached it to the solenoid. However, for the negative (ground) circuit I attached it to the engine first with the supplementary lead going to the chassis instead of vice versa as originally configured. This was used as the largest amp draw is for the starter, not the accessories. Grounding it direct to the motor should complete the circuit better.

Heater:
Although I had earlier “rebuilt” the heater box, the fan motor was not yet working. A bit of attention was needed here. A jumper wire connected direct to the motor shows the fan blower motor works, so time to back track a bit. Step one is to check the switch. Removing the wires from the switch shows there is a 12 volt current is at the switch and a jumper wire to bypass the switch to the other wire going to the motor proves the heater fan is working. The problem is therefore in the switch. I removed the switch and cleaned it internally and externally then replaced it with the problem being solved. The heater blower motor and fan now work with the switch.

Horns:
There were two four wire style horns mounted, but the wires and connections had long ago corroded past the point of being useable. I removed both horns, cleaned the wires, and replaced the missing terminals. I was able to locate a pair of four wire horns on eBay for ~ $45.00. After receiving these and a bit more effort at cleaning, prep, and paint work they were installed and proved to be very good condition and have good tone.

Headlights
Neither headlight operated as it should. The primary cause of the problems was both incorrect wiring and incomplete ground circuits. The "6012" style lamps were checked and discovered to be good. After rewiring and replacement of all Lucar style connectors the lights worked correctly. However, the left assembly is a bit loose in the fender. perhaps a screw or two may be missing.

Front Turn Signals
The right front turn signal lamp assembly was missing. In addition, the left front turn signal had both wires cut off at the back of the lamp and was heavily corroded on the inside. A replacement set was purchased off eBay and later installed. A new set of rubber gaskets was also purchased on eBay to seal the lamps and prevent future corrosion. As a part of the installation, a separate 12V (-) ground circuit was installed. The manufactures design relies on completion of all ground circuits via the body which often fails due to corrosion.

Markers
The left front fender was replaced at some point either as a result of an accident or extended rust issues. The fender that was installed came off an earlier British vehicle as it lacked the factory holes for mounting the marker lamp assembly. I purchased a complete left side marker lamp off eBay complete with the NLA mounting plinth. Installation involved measuring the placement of the right side lamp and transferring the measurements to the left fender. Next was the drilling of two 3/16 inch diameter holes and one 1 1/4 inch diameter hole. At this time, it was noted that the fender had a thin layer of body filler where the larger hole was drilled.
The rear marker light mounting plinths were completely deteriorated and would not hold the chrome trim brackets. A new set of mounting plinths were purchased from Matthews and will be installed once they are received.

Rear Brake, Tail & Turn Signal Lights
All were mostly non-functional due to either incorrect (or no) ground circuit, burnt out bulbs, or general corrosion around the bulbs. All contacts and connections were cleaned and polished, new bulbs installed and new ground circuits installed.

Reverse Lights
The reverse lamp bulbs were both burnt out and the housing assemblies were corroded internally and externally. I was able to order new bulbs from Carquest Auto, and clean the corrosion off internally and externally with a Dremel polisher. Unfortunately, as with everything electrical on this car the switch located on the transmission control area is burnt up and the wires corroded off. It would be hard to say which was first to occur. Either way a new switch will be needed.
 
Windshield Wipers:
Again like all electrical devices on this car, the windshield wipers would not work. There are multiple possibilities as to the cause of non-operation. It could it be the 12V (+) circuit, the 12 V (-) ground circuit; the wiring; the switch; some corroded connections; or even a bad motor. Initially, I removed the motor unit and cleaned all connection of visible corrosion. In testing circuits, I noted that there was one (green) wire that showed a 12V (+) connection. With the use of some jumper leads I was able to power the motor on both the high and the low speeds with it functioning correctly. The next place to check is the switch. After a bit of work it was removed and tested. The ohmmeter shows no connections working across the switch. A new switch is ~ $80.00 to $120.00. A used switch would perhaps be half or less, but would it be good to invest in a switch of unknown functioning or would it be best to spend the additional $$ and get one that is new? I have since purchased what is “supposed” to be a working switch on eBay for $50.00. I received this today (3/30/2009) and did a quick plug and check to verify condition of the switch. I have reinstalled the switch and the steering column trim bits that had to be removed. The switch and wipers are now operational as intended.

The Interior Floor Pans:
A complete floor replacement for driver’s and passenger’s sides seating area is required as both side of the seat floor pan are completely gone. Additionally, a complete floor replacement for both the driver’s and passenger’s footwell area is also needed. The footwell areas are not in as bad of condition as the seating areas, but they are rusted through in smaller areas with the passenger’s side being in the worst condition.

I went through several mental plans for replacement of the floors with the most practical being to fabricate a frame from 1 x 1 x 1/8 angle iron and weld this new material to the perimeter of the former location of the floor. Although the original was one piece, the factory supplied replacement panels are provided in “halves” for the driver and passenger sides. After some measuring and some phone calls I was able to find what was needed locally at C&J Welding supplies off of Johnson Road in Huntsville for $30.00. After a bit of refresher MIG Welding 101, I was able to spot weld in the new angle iron adequately. I also picked up some generic “Lord Fusor” chemical bonding agent that I will also apply when the weather fairs out a bit.

OVERALL SUMMARY:
1. Floors rusted through.
2. Trunk floor rusted through.
3. Interior disassembled.
4. Seats rotted and frames rusted through with parts missing.
5. Seat belts inoperative.
6. Door and Trunk seals missing.
7. Convertible Top questionable.
8. Fuse box corroded.
9. Lights inoperative.
10. Heater Assembly faulty and heater blower motor inoperative.
11. Horns are inoperative.
12. Windshield wiper arm & blade is missing and motor is inoperative.
13. Spare tire flat.
14. Brakes inoperative.
15. Battery missing.
16. Accelerator Pedal missing.
17. Fuel Tank contains extremely stale fuel.
18. Carburetors clogged & balky
19. Hood release cable missing.

I first learned of this 1973 MG Midget about a year ago from a co-worker who received it as a bithday gift from his wife. I have owned many MG-Bs over the years and a Triumph or two, even a 1973 Triumph Stag, but no Midgets. The co-worker sent me a few pics of the car and I decided to check it out first hand. The day of choice was cold, dreary, and rainy. Although first impressions were fair, I could see that I was in for a bit of work prior to getting it back on the road.