Greg Deyo's Spitfire Journal - Page 2

fittospit Greg Deyo
Greg Deyo  
North Branch, Minnesota, USA

Total Posts: 55 Latest Post: 2010-05-20 06:40:48
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Link to this journal: http://www.mgexperience.net/journal/fittospit






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Steering Wheel

Greg Deyo — Posted on The Triumph Experience
Tuesday September 1, 2009 9:38 PM
My steering wheel was rust pitted and filthy. I thought it was an original leather wrapped steering wheel, and maybe it was, but the leather wrap was a sewn on overlay that I think was added aftermarket. I have on much like it for one of my other cars that is now going to go onto the Spitfire's wheel. I took off the steering wheel nut, threaded it back on until it was flush with the end of the shaft and hit the shaft with an air hammer. It popped right off. The three spokes were bolted onto the hub, so I removed the wheel from the hub and then untied and pulled the stitching from the leather wrap. I cleaned the wheel with Zep 40 and a toothbrush. It came so clean it looked new. I used some 220 grit sandpaper on the spokes and they cleaned up very well. It was hard getting into the slots in the middle of each spoke, but i sanded the whole thing and went back over it with 320 grit. It was very shiny and metallic looking, better than I hoped. I was thinking of painting it to match the car, or a chrome paint or metallic silver. Once I saw how nice it looked, I taped it off and shot it with clear-coat. Now I get the nice brushed steel look and it won't rust again. Tomorrow I will clean up the hub and paint it and throw it all back together and onto the car. I need the horn button still. Gotta check with Mark on that.


Ready for clearcoat

Ready for clearcoat




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Dash Pad

Greg Deyo — Posted on The Triumph Experience
Tuesday September 1, 2009 9:25 PM
I decided to tackle the dash pad. In retrospect I would have done things differently, but you live and learn. My dash pad wasn't split or cracked. It only had one small dent with a few small cracks in the vinyl around it, but it was right in the center of the front edge of the dash . I stripped off the old vinyl, which was kind of hard, almost like a shell rather than fabric. The foam underneath was a bit rotted here and there and had some tears. I had read someone else's blog about how he used spray foam insulation and it was almost like the material the dash uses originally. That is what I tried. That would be number two on the things I would do differently, but I will explain all that later. I used the stuff very carefully and did not use very much. It does not spread well and you would do well to use gloves. I got it as close as I thought it would get and let it sit. While it rose and dried I tried to figure a way to get the inner wheel wells covered in vinyl without any cuts or folds. The problem is the dang thing curves two different directions and I spent almost two hours stretching, sliding, heating, bending, crying and swearing and could not get the damn thing to work. The original that I took out was one piece and I used it as a template! I had to walk away before I pulled my gun and unloaded on the car. I went back to the dash and found that using the spray insulation sparingly is too much. I spent quite a bit of time cutting with a razor blade and then sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. I finally got it where I wanted it. I knew it didn't have to be smooth because the vinyl would hid a lot of sins. There was one spot I needed to level better and instead of the insulation I used what I was thinking about using all along, wood putty. It filled in well, dried fast and sanded beautifully. I cut a piece of vinyl in the general size and I brushed contact cement on the entire pad. I laid the vinyl on and rolled it with my roller till it was nice and smooth. I turned it over and sprayed adhesive on the bottom edge of the front of the dash, let it set a few minutes and pulled the vinyl tight and down. I turned it over and it looked great. I started cutting and gluing the back edge, working towards the corners that I knew would be a bear to do. Halfway through I turned it over and the vinyl was bubbling just like the rear panel had done. After a few minutes of swearing, I pulled all the glued down tabs and lifted the vinyl off one half of the pad. I stretched it and used the roller to roll it back down. Then I did the other half. I turned it over and began re-gluing my tads, checking every so often to be sure the other side looked good. It was fine. The corners were a little tough but i am getting to be an old pro at this an I finished it up. I cut the opening for the ashtray, then turned it over and with the fabric cut I worked my fingers along the molded edges on either side of the ashtray. I kept working the fabric and it molded very well. once I was sure it was glued in well I glued the tabs I had cut, then with the dash right side up, I held the fabric along the molded edge and tucked the tab in and glued it to the backside. This kept me from pulling too tight and pulling the fabric away from the molded edge. I glued all for tabs and my daughter cut the slits for the demister vents. Done deal and looking good. Then I saw the bumps. Apparently the glue soaked through and the original foam was pulling off the metal backing in spots. Or maybe it was just swelling. I put it out in the sun. I am hoping when the glue dries overnight it will shrink back down. I notice it, but likely no one else will. In retrospect, I should never have removed the old vinyl. I should have just recovered over the top of it. I also should have used the wood filler and would never recommend that foam insulation. Also, had I known, I would have spayed a sealer of some sort on the foam pad first, and then put the glue down. Regardless, it did turn out pretty nice. It was really easier than it sounds.


It does look nice and matches the interior

It does look nice and matches the interior

Never use spray in foam insulation

Never use spray in foam insulation!




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Parts Ordered

Greg Deyo — Posted on The Triumph Experience
Monday August 31, 2009 6:17 PM
I was beat down tired and did not feel like working on the car today. I did use my birthday money and I ordered my water pump, windshield gasket, handbrake gaiter and clutch and brake pedal return springs. I decided to try The Little British Car Co. this time. Their pricing was better on everything but the water pump and they were close on that. The only downside is that they don't tell you the shipping cost ... ever. I imagine I will find out when I see the charge on my credit card. They are in Michigan and it is going Fedex or UPS ground so it shouldn't be too much. I can't wait to get the water pump in and stop the damn thing from leaking all over my garage and driveway.
-
Just checked my card. It is $17.85 shipping. I always think shipping costs are ridiculous, so this sucks, but it is pretty reasonable I guess.



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Interior Panels Continued...

Greg Deyo — Posted on The Triumph Experience
Friday August 28, 2009 6:38 PM
I trimmed the foam on the other door panel and cut and glued the vinyl. Big as they are, they are very easy to fold and glue due to long straight edges. I finished both door panels today. I also cut the battery mat and some smaller pieces of the mat to fill the space under my wiper motor. The clamp won't hold it tight and I had some carpet under it to fill in space but was worried about dampness being held in the carpet. I also filled in the bad spots on the dashboard with expanding foam insulation. There weren't many bad spots and most came when I removed the old cover. I won't be able to get back to work on the car until Monday. I'm going to the Twins game Saturday as part of my birthday gift and then the State Fair on Sunday. Monday I will sand not so much smooth but even. Then I will be able to cut and glue the vinyl to the foam. I am a little worried about being able to conform to the small indented portion around the ashtray. I figure the glue will help. Once that is done, I have to figure out how to form the vinyl onto the inner wheel wells. I cut a piece today and tried to set it in place and it defeated my best thoughts on how to get it formed. I think I am going to try stretching a piece around my knee and seeing how it fits. Then it's glue in the carpet, install the panels, install the seats and seat belts and the interior is done. Any birthday money I get will go to a new water pump and a windshield gasket. I also need to check a few goodwill stores for a cheap car cover. No dust in my new interior!


Finished right door panel

Finished right door panel

Before ugly blue

Before, ugly blue.




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More Interior Panels

Greg Deyo — Posted on The Triumph Experience
Thursday August 27, 2009 7:59 PM
I met Jon at Rochford Supply, a local textile manufacturer in Minneapolis. The place was incredible. They make all kinds of material for marine, automotive, snowmobile, atv and any other use you can think of. And they have fasteners of all styles. Jon buys material to make backpacks from them. I looked at many different styles and finally settled on a leather look black that is actually a snowmobile application. I was prepared for the worst but it was only $8.88 a yard and was 54" wide. I chose a thick foam padding and it was $5.55 a yard and was 72" wide. While we were waiting for the order to be filled, I saw they had a material called battery mat. It was in several thicknesses. I was looking for a battery mat and was going to go to the local cobbler and buy some rubber heel material. This is even better. I asked how it comes and she says you have to buy a yard minimum. Basically a 3' X 4' piece. Crap. How much, I ask? $1.25 for the yard. I bought a yard and now have a lifetime supply of battery mat. I bought two yards of foam and three yards of vinyl along with the battery mat for a total of $42. That brings my total with hardboard and glue to just shy of $55. This morning I decided to start with the rear side panels because they are not padded. I cut the vinyl and spent quite a bit of time on the backside cutting and gluing due to all the curves and weird angles. It was slow going but turned out very well. I did both rear side panels and then because it was easier, the rear panel in front of the fuel tank. I cut the padding a bit bigger than I needed and then brushed contact cement on the hardboard. I let it set for a while and set it on the foam. I ended up turning it over and pressing on the hardboard to get it to adhere. It took a long time to set. I was very surprised. I thought it would be ready and I would turn it over and an edge would start to roll up. Finally it set and I used a new single edged razor and ran it along the edge of the hardboard as a guide to cut off the excess foam. Then I brushed contact cement onto the foam and let it set again. I had already cut the vinyl and set the foamed panel onto the vinyl. I turned it over and used a cotton rag to rub it smooth and it looked great. I flipped it over and started cutting and folding and gluing. I was told to use 3M spray adhesive, and I already had a bottle but never liked it. I worked for crap, so I went back to my tried and true 3M weatherstrip adhesive in a tube. I could squeeze the glue onto a tab, pull it tight and stick it down and it would hold instantly. No sliding or slipping. I love this stuff. About halfway through for some reason I turned it over to look at the finished side and it was puckered and had rolls in it. I about shit myself and tried to roll them out to an edge with a towel. No dice. I ended up undoing all the tabs and pulling up half the vinyl from the foam and resetting it using the roller I had bought for the dash veneer. This smoothed it out well. Once the half was done, I pulled up the other half and did that too. Now it was smooth and fortunately still tacked down with glue. I went back and re-glued all the tabs, checking the front side every so often. After I finished all the tabs,it looked great. The original had vertical ribs sewn into it. I was going to do that also, but decided against it since none of the other panels have it and it would really be a pain. I like the clean look. And it will be easier to clean. I let them set while I test fit the door panels and made sure the door clips would all fit. I cut the foam and glued it to both door panels and trimmed the foam on one. I test fit the completed panels and boy, does it look good! Very clean and neat looking. Tomorrow I want to finish the door panels and start putting the doors back together ... the latches, strikers, panels, etc...


Rear inner panel complete

Rear inner panel complete




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Interior Panel Replacement

Greg Deyo — Posted on The Triumph Experience
Monday August 24, 2009 7:03 PM
Today I started work on the interior panels. I disassembled the door, rear and rear side panels and used the old panels for templates. I used 1/4 inch hardboard. I was tempted to use thicker, but the rear side panels have a bend to them that is almost 90 degrees and thinner will help with that. The last time they were done whoever did them used both contact cement and staples so it was quite a job to get them all taken apart. The old panels were damp rotted and in very rough shape. I used them as templates and cut new ones from the hardboard. The rear side panels have that bend and the first one worked beautifully. The second one snapped as soon as I flexed it. After a few colorful words and very inventive phrases, I cut another one. It worked better. I don't have the fabric yet, but I am meeting my buddy Jon at Rockford Textiles on Wednesday to pick some out. It is going to be black and I am going to pad them as well. I don't know yet what style I am going with. I want to match the seats as closely as I can. There was also vinyl glued along the window frame where the door meets it and down the pinch weld to the kick panel. I will have to get enough to cover that as well. These are some of the final pieces of the interior. I am very excited. I still have to do something about the glove boxes, but that will be it. I can hardly wait.


Left door panel before and after

Left door panel before and after

before and really ugly

before and really ugly!




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