Finally had time to work on the turn signals and dash lights. When I drove the MGB home from a hobby club the other night, I was stunned to find it had no dash lights or turn signals. That was my first night trip after purchasing the 1976 MGB. I should have checked out the night time electrics but didn't.

I pulled the center console in hopes of getting more access under the dash, LOL, that was a joke. I need a trained 5 year old to get hands behind the dash. I discovered that the PO had really changed a lot of the wiring. The windshield washers were on a toggle, the hazards didn't work, courtesy light and cigarette lighter were not wired, a funky fan switch was added, and the list goes on. There is never a shortage of projects on one of these things. The MGA of my youth was no different.

I took all the switches out, marked the wires with labeling tape, and cleaned things up. All warning lights and buzzers were removed by PO. The hazard switch was easy to take apart, and it was easy to fix. The spring loaded riders had popped out of their sockets. I plugged the switch in to test the fix and the turn signals and flashers both worked. YEA! The only flasher problem remaining is that the hazard lights only work when the ignition switch is on. I don't think that is a switch problem, so I'll put that off to another time. I'm guessing there is a wire crossed somewhere.

Next were the dash lights. I dreaded the thought of replacing bulbs, so the first check was the rheostat. I pulled the glove compartment, air ducts (needed to be cleaned anyway), and panels and was able to access the dimmer. I hot wired the two connections and all the lights worked. I wonder why in the world MG even bothered with a dimmer...they are not bright as it is. Anyway, I fabricated a connecting wire and plugs, labeled it, and now the dash lights work. I'm not sure whether or not I'll mess with getting a new dimmer. So, the next step is to tuck the wiring harnesses away and reassemble the dash.

I noticed the middle headlight switch position doesn't function. I'm assuming the position controls the parking lights, so it is not an immediate fix requirement, but needs to get done.

Well, that's it for today.

~mike

In 1966, I bought a 1960 MGA 1600. It was in excellent condition and was a blast to drive. The only major problem was the ignition system that would foul when the humidity was high. I was always worried some one would spit next the car and shut it down... The A broke down on my honeymoon, so I am surprised my wife consented to buying the MGB, some 42 years later. I love sports cars, a passion initiated by the MGA. I've had a Porcshe 911, BMW Z-3, and now the MGB.

The MGB was a rubber bumper car, but the PO replaced the bumpers with a chrome kit. The engine was tuned with a Brit-Tek Stage 1 kit, and a 3" exhaust with a very loud glass pack was fitted, too.

The interior needs some tender loving car, but the car looks like it was restored at some point in the last ten years.

Under the car it looks good, but the wishbone bushings are shot and need to be replaced. A Brit-Tek lowering kit came with the car, but it was not installed. The B doesn't handle well on corners and seems top heavy. My BMW X-5 takes corners much better, and it is a truck! Anyway, I don't know whether to install the lowering kit (read some negative comments about lowering on this forum) or install sway bars.

The exterior is in fair condition. There doesn't appear to be any bondo wavy marks in the sides and the PO said it had never been wrecked. The front hood doesn't not close completely on the driver's side and there is a split in the bonnet paint at the latch. The PO removed the passenger mirror for some reason and did a nasty job of patching it. The paint is a bright red (flame red?), but appears to have come from the factory in carmine red, as evidenced by looking under the dash. The paint shines well, but I see two bubbles on top of the fenders above the wheels...ugh. That is the only rust that is apparent on the car...fingers crossed. The side molding was removed by the PO. The top was shot, so I purchased a new one. I haven't installed it yet. I've installed a new one on the MGA, so I don't think it will be a problem to do the MGB top.

The drive train seems solid, but the car is annoying to drive because of the loudness of the exhaust. The radiator is leaking at the lower hose, and there is a massive oil leak that appears to be coming from the valve cover on all sides. The engine venting was changed when the air pump was removed, so it needs to be rerun. The Weber Outlaw needs to have the cooling water run through it.

So, that is all I know from my first look. Away we go...

mike