Quite often the handbrake is much ignored and neglected and doesn't work as well as it should. Also it's not uncommon for people to try to improve the handbrake by adjusting the cable. This is the wrong way to go about it.

To get things back to where they should be -

1. Support the car with the weight off the rear wheels and remove the wheels.

2. Have somebody operate the handbrake while you see if the cable is moving freely and that the compensator which is attached to the axle is also feel to move. If they do not move freely, disassemble, lubricate and reassemble.

3. Fully slacken off the cable adjuster which is just inside the transmission tunnel below the handbrake lever to take any strain off the cable.

4. Now look at the lever where it enters the brake backplate. The lever should be close to the backplate. If it looks like this -



The handbrake actuating mechanism in the drum is probably seized up and will need to be removed and freed up before going any further. You will be taking the drums off anyway but this is just a bit more work.

5. Fully slacken off the shoe adjusters. You may need some heat if they are seized.

6. Remove the two screws that hold the drum to the hub. (if they are fitted)

7. Remove the brake drum.

8. Inspect the linings for wear

9. Scuff the lining surface with rough sandpaper

10. Inspect the slave cylinders for leaks while you're in there

11. Clean everything visible with brake cleaner and a cloth, not compressed air.

12. With a small grinder, clear the ridge in the opening of the brake drum.

13. If the lever is close to the backplate refit the drum and adjust the shoes until there is just minimal drag.

14. If the lever is like the picture above, you will have to remove the shoes, disconnect the arm from the cable and remove the arm. This will allow you to get it working freely. Once working freely reassemble the arm and shoes and follow step 13.

14. Repeat for the other side.

15. When both side drums are correct go back to the cable adjuster and adjust so that the wheels lock up by the third click of the handbrake.

You should now have a fully functional handbrake.

Ignition testing made easy. The only tools you will need is a plug spanner and a 12v test light. A helper is useful too.

This is written primarily for cars which were running but now refuse to start. The information will apply to cars which have no history of running but there may be other factors involved in those cases. As with all things, I find a methodical approach works best when fault finding and if you follow these steps you should find the answer to your problem.

1. Remove a spark plug, connect to its lead and lay on the block. Have somebody spin the engine over while you watch for spark. If you have a spark, do the same for the other plugs. If you have a spark at all the plugs, it’s unlikely that you have an ignition problem.
2. If no spark hold the plug lead about ¼” from the block. Have somebody spin the engine over while you watch for spark between the lead and the block. If you are worried about the tiny tingle you may get hold the lead with insulated pliers or make sure you aren’t in contact with bare skin to the car. Alternatively get the helper to hold it and you spin the engine. If you get a spark the plug(s) is/are dead. Very unlikely for more than one plug to die at the same time but I’ve got to mention it.
3. If still no spark pull the king lead (center) from the distributor cap. Have somebody spin the engine over while you watch for spark between the lead and the block. If you get a spark the problem lies in the distributor. If no spark go to point 6.
4. Remove the distributor cap and hold the king lead about ¼” from the brass top of the rotor arm. Have somebody spin the engine over while you watch for spark. If you get a spark, the rotor is dead and needs replacing.
5. If no spark the rotor arm is good. Check the inside of the cap for damage or cracks. Pay particular attention to the carbon brush in the centre. Is it there, is it free to move against its spring to make contact with the top of the rotor arm.
6. This applies to points systems only. With the distributor cap off, have somebody spin the engine over while you watch for spark at the points.
7. If no spark, check that the points are catually opening and closing. Then check that all leads to the distributor and coil are firmly connected. Also check the thin flexible lead that runs between the base plate and the body of the distributor. With the test lamp check for voltage at both sides of the coil and where the lead attaches to the distributor. If no voltage, the fault lies in the wiring harness, connections or switch.