Like the kick panels, the old door panels were used as templates for the new. This gets the major dimensions pretty accurate but since old panels tend to be warped and cracked I still found that I needed to do a trial fit to get the panel clip holes lined up perfectly. This was done (after cutting new panel out, drilling all openings for window crank, arm rest, panel clips, etc.) by hanging the new panel by just the top panel clips on each end of the door. Then using a small rat tail file to make the slight adjustments needed in some of the holes to get good alignment between the panel clip holes and the clip holes in the door. The skins were put on in four steps.
1. Put skin over door panel and put a series of staples along the top of edge of the skin into the panel. Bend over end of staples since they go all the way through the board. The top door rail trim will cover these staples from sight.
2. Fold back skin from panel. Rather than try to put adhesive on the whole surface at one time, I laid down a couple one inch lines of adhesive starting at the top and dividing the panel into thirds, doing each third in a separate step so that I get it stretched out evenly over whole panel.
3. The vinyl is then folded over the ends of the panel and adhesive was sprayed, allowed to get tacky, applied to the board and then stapled in place to cure. Like the kick panels, staples were not driven all the way in since they are too long and will come out the other side.
4. Staples are later taken out and panels are stored till time to paint and install.

Does it pay to restore these panels or just replace?
Cost: $10 for 4x8' tempered hard board, $14 x 2 for adhesive. Haven't bought paint yet (Probably about $10 for a can). There was enough material left over to do the back panels if one wanted.

I think this makes sense in two situations: One, previous owner cut speaker holes in the original panels and you'll be installing a stereo system. (Doesn't make sense to cut up a set of new panels to do that!) Second, If you are just putting together a daily driver and want to save some money. If you are going for a "show" quality then I don't think the expense of new panels is that cost prohibitive to keep one from going that route. This is assuming that the panels one can buy are close in quality to the originals. I haven't personlly seen them to be able to evaluate.

Assembly straight forward. Even though I was using the old panels for a template I'm glad I checked the fit of each to the interior before gluing the skins on as each needed a little trimming first. Skins were glued on to the hardboard with 3m general trim adhesive and then used the staple gun to tack down skin flaps for 24 hours to let glue fully cure. Didn't drive home staples all the way because staples were longer than the 1/8" panel board. Then pulled staples out after 24 hours. I'll store panels for now "as is" and then paint them with black vinyl paint when the interior is put back together next spring. On to the door panels.

Started restoring the panels yesterday.

Since it is summer and driving time, I was looking for something to work on that didn't require taking the B out of circulation. Since I'm fixing the interior next winter, I thought I would get a start on the interior panels. New ones are not too expensive so I wasn't sure if renewing the older ones would be worth it. I found that for $10 one can buy a 4x8 sheet of 1/8 tempered hardboard that is a dead ringer for the original panel material. Using a 1 inch putty knife separates the panel skin from the panel pretty easily and the old panel can be used as the template. I will actually start with the kick boards to advance the learning curve on this project before doing any more on the door panels. Since the PO cut holes in the door panels, that means I'll be putting speakers in the door in the old locations. The money saved from not having to buy new panels will go towards the sound system. With a freshening up coat of Sem's uphostery paint the skins should look pretty good for daily driver standards. If I was going for show room quality then new panels would probably be the way to go.

Entry title says it.

The bay has been done for a couple of weeks but have been waiting on a local parts store to get a new gasket for the valve cover. Project took 3 months of working on Wednesdays. Only snags other than waiting 10 days for a gasket was the usual trama of trying to get the clutch bled properly and shimming the motor mounts because of a PO's activity where mounting points weren't quite right. Preventative work done included replacing the release bearing, clutch fork bolt and bushing, clutch hose, and heater core. Trans. input shaft seal was also replaced. Now everything is together and enjoying the drive for the rest of the summer. Next winter the interior will be removed. Rust will be dealt with. Then interior and whole exterior will be painted.