Why build a trailer from the back of the 78 parts car? Because I can, I need a project and it is fun.

Dec. 06: Cut apart the parts car and kept the back end.
June 07: Worked on getting a trailer axle made. $240 for a 2" tube, hubs and bearing was pretty decent. My original delight at having 8 bolts in the wheel pattern, 4 that fit the B and 4 that fit the trailer hub, has diminished because the studs are not EXACTLY on centre with the holes and the nuts are perching on the hub a little instead of sitting down into the camfer. I can fix this by having a machine shop drill the other 4 holes into the hub, like on the B, and fitting the studs on the other holes. A little more work and cost than I had anticipated. The second engineering problem is that the hub comes through the hole in the wheel too far to fit the decorative centre cap. However with some careful removal of material on the inside of the plastic and re-working the outer cap I think I can get the 1/4" I need to make it work OK.
July 07: fitted the axle and started to contemplate design options. Think I will mock up a wooden frame first and go from there.

July 31: DECISION TIME! This shell is just too rusted out to use for a trailer. I scrapped the rest of the car because it had rotted out, and hoped I could salvage and repair this shell into a trailer but it is just too far gone. The panels I need will cost about $1200 and then it will be a LOT of work. So I have located a substitute which is in far better shape, and I can have it for cheap.

I gave up on this Journal in favour of periodic posts... so check here.
Trailer Progress

1/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,714496,714892#msg-714892

2/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,715527,715765#msg-715765

3/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,719189

4/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,720342,720362#msg-720362

5/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,721493,721822#msg-721822

6/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,722409,723015#msg-723015

7/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,724344,725345#msg-725345

8/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,726900,727260#msg-727260

9/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,728713

10/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,730045

11/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,732614

12/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,736807

13/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,739882

14/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,742369

15/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,753552

16/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,758232

17/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,760460

18/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,767943

19/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,770300

20/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,775920

21/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,780587

22/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,783205

23/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,786227

24/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,787658

25/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,789133

26/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,793097

27/ http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,817250

I have had about 6 PM's on the scissor lift I bought. A lot of you are interested in how it is working for a B so here goes. (I have no vested interest in this product, although some days I wish I did).

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Pro6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift-p/tppro-6m.htm

Here is the unit I bought and some pictures showing access from the side and the underneath. It was $1095USD plus $350 freight from Delaware. I ordered it on Tuesday and it was here in Toronto on Friday! I paid a $40.00 premium for a rear lift truck. IT came on a skid and all I had to do was unpack it, fill it with hydraulic oil and use it.

I have carefully positioned the unit so that at full lift my garage door opener and my light fit in the V between the open hood and the windscreen. The garage door traveller fits between the seats with the top down - with the top up the car is too high to operate the door so in that condition I disable the garage door opener.

The lift capacity is 6000 pounds. I use two 2x6 ramps on the side to raise the car 3" because it makes it easier to put the truck lifts under the car which gives you a variable additional 4" of clearance between the car and the lift. Chrome bumper B's would need these ramps to clear if your ground clearance is

Mar. 01/07: March came in like a lion with a terrible storm. 10cm of snow followed by freezing rain and ice pellets with 60mph winds. We had trees down and 40 power outages in Toronto including our house for 9 hours. Which meant I could not sleep (no CPAP) and I ended up exhausted.

Mar. 02/07: Finished putting most of the split loom harness covers on the wires and labelling the harnesses. Re-tested functionality, seems OK.

Mar. 03/07: Sourced the Radio I want Kenwood (KVT-719DVD) with GPS. Not in Canada until March 15 so I have to wait for it. Bought a Viper 5000 alarm with proximity sensor from Oxford Auto Sound on Kennedy Road.
Posted the progress report here:
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php1,519310

Mar. 04/07: Wasted 4 hours trying to get the key buzzer to work and finally gave up. Mounted the switches for Kill, Fans and Fuel. Further tidied up wiring harnesses under the hood. Wired up the parking brake light switch. Engineered and drew a sketch for the trap door to hold the Aux circuit. Read the installation manual for the alarm system. Noticed a problem with the front carb linkage where the throttle adjusting screw rides on the choke cam. Tried to fix it and broke the screw. Cannibalized an old carb for the part and fixed it. Re-installed the carbs and fuel lines.

Mar. 05/07: Was hoping to start the engine today. Filled the coolant with 3.5 litres of anti-freeze and then back filled the water through the heater hose. Put petrol in the tank - 5 gals and was pleased to see the fuel gauge respond. Powered the fuel pump and discovered a leak on the outbound banjo. Spent a couple of hours trying to fix it until I realized I had the fitting on 180 degrees about. Once I flipped it over it stopped leaking.... but the fuel pump does not stop ticking even though there were no more leaks. Installed the choke cable. Hope to start the lump tomorrow.

Mar. 06/07: She LIVES. Finally found why the fuel pump kept ticking.. the front fuel bowl gasket was seeping. Removed it, reset the float to 1/8" and put a new gasket on it. Now the pup shuts off. Cranked it over with the coil disconnected to prevent it from firing and checked the dipstick. The oil went down... good, the pump is filling the filter and the oil cooler. Topped it up again and cranked and got 50 pounds pressure on the gauge. So with Fuel, coolant and oil systems working I cranked her up for fire. Nada. Backfire through the exhaust. Only reason for that is timing. Checked the plug wires.... they were on the wrong plugs. Fixed that and she fired.... runs poorly at this point but that is carb and timing. Raymond is coming over in the morning to tune it up for me.

Started working on the housing for the alarm and auxiliary power circuit. Mounted the siren under the hood, located the best place for the proximity sensor and tilt sensors.

Mar. 07/07: Yesterday I got the engine to run, albeit very poorly and at the end of the cam burn she stopped, by herself, as if I turned off the key....
Today when my mechanic was here to tune the carbs ..NADA. Would not fire. Back to basics. Well when he came, it would not start. We went through all the diagnostics and he pulled off the cap and the points almost fell out into his hands! THERE was the problem. Since I had already purchased a Pertronix unit and was planning to put it in anyway, we did so and then … it came to life again. But rough. This was a new disty and you can clearly see where the weld broke under the points and there is actually corrosion or rust under there too.

The car is now purring like a kitten but I have to go back to my carb guy and get rid of these Grose jets… both of them are sticking! - one sticks open and the other sticks closed - how do I know? Front carb overflow spewing fuel and rear bowl was empty (which is why it sounded like it was running on only two cylinders -- it was! Took the bowl tops off my 75 to get this engine running! Talk about a combination of weird events. Back to the aux. wiring now.

Mar. 08/07: Continued working on the heated seat, aux wiring and alarm. Lots of connections to make and I am running out of bullets again. Ordered another 50. Called Ray Manerowski regarding getting it certified... we are that close!

Mar. 09/07: Replace the sticking Grose jets in both bowls, fired her back up, no gas leaks. Friend Dave Wallace noticed a leak from the temperature sensing unit so we tightened that down and now there is a tiny seepage from the centre plug of the thermostat housing so I ordered a brass plug and washer. Cinched down some more wires then completely masked and repainted the windscreen that got scratched during glass installation. Then MOUNTED the windscreen.... tough job alone but with the aid of clamps we "got 'er dun"!

Mar. 10/07: Spent the day on the alarm system and got it all set-up. Have not tested.

Mar. 11/07: Finished the Auxiliary circuit wiring, powered up and tested each circuit, tie wrapped all the wires, bundled and wrapped the harnesses under the dash, tested the alarm functions... all working. Worked on the front license plate bracket support.

Mar. 12/07: Got a used plate bracket from Raymond to drill the holes offset to the right because the bolts in the front bumper could not be centred owing to internal rubber ribs.... therefore need to offset the holes to compensate. Started putting in the carpets today. Test alarm - working fine.

Mar. 13-16: Interior work: carpets, rear trim rail, rear trim panel, tidying up wiring and harnesses.

Mar. 17-38/07 John Twist Seminar

Mar. 19/07: Installed the top.

Mar. 20/07: Installed the door panels and caps. Installed the left and right windscreen pillar rubber seals. Drilled and tapped the 'MG' Logo'd shift knob. Fixed the clasping mechanism on the console lid (4 hours for that one) by using a piece of Plexiglas, riv-nuts, screws glue and a dremel.

Mar. 21/07: Got the polished dash pots back from Jon Rosenthal... look fantastic. Installed Radio and GPS wires - took 6 hours - installation manual was not included in the box so I called Elijah from Oxford Sound a couple of times. Found a problem with the slate wire connections. Can't get the fuel pump warning buzzer (when there is no power to the pump) to buzz). Need to speak with Dan Masters on this.

Mar. 22/07: Spent all day buttoning up an routing the wires to the front deck and in the trunk, and after all the work to install it.. I then found the Installation manual. Fortunately I did it all correctly. The GPS even works in the garage! But the front of the radio comes out, then retracts back towards the dash too far and there is no more forward adjustment so I am going to have to move the radio towards the stick shift about 1.5".


Mar. 23/07: Maiden Voyage

Aborted first attempt!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dldh--WEemo

Maiden departure
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFEhb4k8yNU

Maiden return to base and around the block
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohbU2ThhuSI

Mar. 24-25/07: That took some doing! Despite my careful measurements I come to find out that the Kenwood KVT-719DVD will not park at it's furthest extension. It comes out, flips up the screen, then parks back about two inches, promptly smashing into the dash just below the air vents. Oh, you can adjust the distance out alright... but even at the maximum it was still too tight. So I had to fabricate a faceplate to bring it out 3/8" beyond the radio detent area. I used some left over 1/4" Lexan from my windblocker plus a piece of 1/8" plastic that has the same patterned finish as the rest of the dash. Glued it up, drilled it, put a bevel on it then painted it to match the rest (one sentence but about 6-7 hours work).

Then I had the challenge of making a wiring harness to take all the electronics under that console. What you see now in there is:
1/ Two switches for the heated seats. (Tested the driver's side and it works!).
2/ The seatbelt warning light was replaced with with a green fan 'on' indicator light.
3/ A red light which also flashes with the turn signals (I didn't like the black dummy lamp holder there so I put this in to balance the console look).
4/ The blue alarm indicator light.
5/ The radio wiring.
6/ The GPS wiring.
7/ The USB feed to the radio (stick it in and it plays MP3s).
8/ The IPOD audio and Video feeds to the radio (Alyssa could not believe her IPOD worked as soon as we plugged it in.
9/ The cig lighter wiring.
10/ The heater controls (getting those in was a treat).
11/ The wiring for the courtesy lights on the heater controls.
12/ The alarm tilt sensor.
13/ The wiring for the two way communication for the alarm.
14/ The wiring for the GPS satellite receiver.


Now, where the heck am I going to put in the Satellite Radio connection?

Tomorrow I tackle the installation of the passenger seat, finish the top, modify the front license plate holder (it isn't centred because I could not weld the captured nuts inside the bumper where I wanted them so I will cheat the metal plate over about 1/2"

I have no idea how I made it all fit and work with no shorts. Every bullet connector soldered to the wire, not crimped, and is also tie wrapped so they won't vibrate apart although I must say with the Advanced Auto-Wire system everything is fused which is a good thing because I accidentally shorted the G12 purple to ground once and blew the fuse. Thanks Dan for protecting my system with that design.

We WILL be ready for the roll-out party on April 7.

Feb. 01/07: A most frustrating day. After getting a new brake master cylinder ($300.00) because the old one would not pump I discovered the new one won't either.... and it is because one of the lines from the MC to the rear junction is plugged. When the fire occurred the brake fluid must have gelled and now with new fluid going in something has dislodged and blocked the line. It took ALL DAY to discover this, including back bleeding the lines from the rear wheel cylinders to the junction block. New front lines are on order - one week at least to get them.

Spent some time manually polishing the G3 sworls out of the hood, trunk and upper fenders in prep for G10 buffing.

So with the brake lines out and no electrical system yet we are on hold on the engine build-up because I don't want to finish the engine and restrict movement around the engine bay for installing pipes and wires.

Tomorrow i am going to inspect a bug-eye Sprite for one of the guys on the board who lives in Connecticut and is looking to buy it in Toronto.

Feb. 02/07:Inspected the Bug-eye. Fugetaboutit.

I am a bit bummed out now since I can't complete so many items. The engine can't be finished before the brake lines are replaced otherwise I will restrict my access to re-fit. Then the wiring needs to be done but the harness is STILL in transit to me. The interior can't be finished until the wiring is done. So tomorrow I will concentrate on getting the G10 buffing done and the machine glaze and then start putting on brightwork.

Finished making a plastic lid for the storage box behind the driver's seat and cleaned and polished the luggage rack. Also covered the door caps with leather, cleaned up the mounting chrome and now need my piping back from Diamond Trim to finish that job.

Feb. 03/07: Spent the entire day buffing with G10 followed by Turtle wax. Looks great. Tired.

Feb. 04/07: Started putting on the chrome bits: luggage rack, door locks (had to make two door lock retainers), hold-downs for the top, lights replaced after buffing.

Feb. 05/07: Took ALL DAY to install the six chrome strips on the side. Very scary and slow process to make sure no drill bit broke, no chance of a slip (hold tightly) and ensure no pop rivet gun snap bounced of the paint.

Feb. 06/07: Installed back-up lights and windscreen washer sprayers, mirror mounts, inside vapour barriers on doors, adjusted the hood with a shim under the left support block, drilled engine serial number plate rivet holes.

Received the book I ordered 'MG Electrical Systems' - good timing since I have not yet started the wiring. Also received the Heritage Certificate from the UK and find that this car started life as a Limited Edition. That is a surprise since when I got it it did not have LE Wheels, decals nor front spoiler.. only an LE steering wheel.

Running out of things to do without the electrical harness.... that was one of my biggest fears. Maybe it's time to go to Detroit and pick up the wheels and tires for the trailer.

Feb. 07/07 installed oil filter and lines, valance, rad hoses and various other plumbing. Power Block arrived by mail be we were not here so they took it back for re-delivery or pick-up. Installed Valance, front bumper and air dam. It is starting to look like a car again.

Feb. 08/07: Installed rear bumper. Cleaned up around here!

Feb. 09/07: We have a Power Block!! Installed new front brake lines. Cleaned up cockpit. Started designing plastic cover for the Power Block

Feb. 10/07: Fabricated PB housing with smoked lexan. Mounted on right fender and organized wires and connectors to start routing wires.

Feb. 11/07: I just can't seem to get 'into' it today. Managed to bleed the brakes and get good pedal with Patty's assistance pumping. Routed the wires through the firewall into the cockpit and re-read the instructions. Have not got my crimping tools yet. Ordered a new Alternator 96 amp (stock is 34 amp) to handle all the new accessories. Looked into Steering Wheel leather covers. Need to call about that tomorrow.

Feb. 12/07: Red leather steering wheel cover ordered. New Alternator on the way.

Feb. 13/07: Decided to get the battery box, cables and cutoff switch set up in readiness for the Advance Wiring harness and to make sure feed to the starter and grounds were solid.

Well, I felt like the clumsiest oaf today. Nothing went right. Drilled holes poorly, fastened nuts onto bolts with washers in the wrong order, put the ground cables to the switch on the wrong posts so they would not fit (which meant since I had already cut the plastic liner box I had to go to Canadian Tire to get one three inches longer). .. and while there I decided to buy a new battery... but wait....

I was not sure if the properly sized battery would fit and I had been running with a smaller 9x6 garden tractor battery and with the new wiring and alternator I decided no way...

but

Canadian Tire would not let me take a battery home to see if it would fit properly - you buy it, you own it. $109.00 for trial. So as luck had it there was a used dead battery with the proper case on their trad-in shelf. Borrowed it, took it home, tight tight fit but with a heat shrink gun and a little plastic molding pressure we got it to fit. Back to CTC to buy the battery.

Then the hold-down clampsI bought would not work... soooooo custom fabrication and two hours later we have it.

8 hours all in.

Feb. 14/ 07: Ran the wires out to the termination points at the front and rear corners and
all the wires have now been coiled in a temporary location in readiness for crimping and soldering.

Yesterday and today I connected the coil, left headlight, left front park and left marker, horns and fans. Tomorrow we tackle the right front side and rear lighting system.

Dan, thanks for the discussion regarding 'best practice' for grounds. As it happens my new horns provide a perfect lug on the top of the mounting bracket into which I can neatly daisy chain all the front grounds to one solid point.

Pictures here:
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,510443

Feb. 15/07. Wiring. Right front done. Trunk done. Fuel pump done.

Some of you here will appreciate that it took me 8 hours to complete the rear wiring with about 30 connections. Routing the wires perfectly: that takes planning before you cut to minimize the number of connections and to eliminate little extenders, stripping, soldering on bullets, dielectric grease into the couplings (or shrink wrap on terminal connectors -MATCHING COLOUR on visible wires where possible!) then testing continuity and finally zip-tying into neat bundles. I wired it so I can add a harness later for the trailer when it is done and added a circuit for a light that will come on in the trunk lid, just behind the lock mechanism, to illuminate the entire area of the boot when the trunk is open. I will buy a 12v flat mount light that has a built in switch so I can override it and turn it off if I want to.

My fingers and hands are very sore from the detailed high powered grip required in some of these operations and I managed to cut myself twice and burn myself once (minor) with the butane soldering flame... but that is the ONLY way to go. Fast and hot and requires no pressure like a soldering iron or gun so the wires and the connector don't shift on you. Also it is so hot the tip gets to solder melting temperature before the insulation starts to get warm.

Ahh the smell of melting resin core solder... reminds me of my youth soldering speakers wire.

Now to complete the underside of the 'bonnet' and move on to the dash. It's time to start 'running the greens' .. the power feeds to the devices.

Feb. 16/07: I took my door panels and materials to have them stitched by the shop that does work for SpeedVision Channel. Gary suggested vinyl inlays to match the piping (welts) on the seats. He knows what he is doing so I said .... sure go ahead and do what you can do to make them unique.

Then I took the rear deck cover to Kim Chevalier who embroiders MG and Triumph Regalia for the Toronto Triumph Club and MGCCT. I chose the Safety Fast/MG Logo. Both turned out better than I could have imagined. I will have to treat these carefully as I install them. Can't wait to finish the wiring so I can get this interior installed!

The alternator arrived today. Also re-installed the dizzy with the engine drive spindle 180 degrees around so the rotor would line up #1 at 2-3 o'clock.

Feb. 17/07: Wiring. Alternator, brake switches, reverse switch and planning the under dash bits.

Feb. 18/07: Major progress today. Ran all the under-dash wires to the correct location in readiness for termination. Ran out of bullets but fortunately Laura McEachern from British Auto Sport was on the way to Whitby and delivered 50 so I could keep going. Removed all the connectors from the old harness and the part's car harness to use because the ones from British Electric (along with the crimping tool) still have not arrived yet and will likely get here now after the job is done!

Feb. 19/07: Wired up the steering column connections. See the posts here
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,512991

Feb. 20-21/07: Basic wiring complete and functioning. Search on 'Advanced Auto-Wire to see the 10 posts as I progressed. Great feeling to have this almost complete. Minor finishing touches needed now and tidy up the wires.

Feb. 21-28/07: Almost complete? I must have been mad to say that. The whole week has been spent on wiring wiring wiring... cutting, soldering, checking, testing. Managed to get it to the point where I could test spin the starter and have all the lights working. Now to take it apart to make harnesses and tidy up.

A great month's work on the restoration.

Jan. 01/07: Painted second rear drum red. POR15's rear axel. Installed heat shield in tunnel with rivetting help from Alyssa. Examined rear axel brake lines - to be replaced.
Jan. 02/07: Picked up hood frame and engine jig from sandblaster. Got bolt for spring. Had to cut one out!
Jan. 03/07: Primed and painted hood frame red. Got parts from Fred re Cam pressure plate and battery box liner. Replaced plastic lid on sandblaster.
Jan. 04/07: Office most of the day. Check out Concepts on Wheels re seatbelt re-webbing to tan.
Jan. 05/07: Got rear spring bushes replaced; Installed storage box and rear axel and painted springs. Found www.ssnake-oyl.com re seatbelts thanks to MG Experience website.
Jan. 06/07: Installed gas tank, finished rear-end assembly except brake lines. Started back on the engine but now the CAM sprocket will not fit over the key!
Jan. 07/07: Installed fuel pump and main line to engine bay. Routed breather tube to boot. Opened garage door with boot lid up and scratched the lid edge .. well there goes the first DING! Darn it.

Jan. 08/07: Epoxy primed engine jig.
Jan. 09/07: Got the CAM Key ground down about two thou by Kirk at Ajax Race Engines; now the cam sprocket fits. Good thing this happened as I had the key offset the WRONG WAY and would have retared the cam by 3 degrees. Painted all the interior bits ready for interior re-build. Covered one of the seats with Mr. Mike's covers.
Jan. 10/07: More paint prep for bits; painted the seat runners, covered the second seat, made leather over plastic covers for the seat hinges. The seats look awesome. Sourced Diamond Trim as a potential for seat-belt rewebbing; sourced a paint buffing expert who is going to coach me on the wet-sand-buff routine.
Jan. 11/07: Clean up the garage and put away tools. Sorted parts for the next sub-projects. Took belts to Diamond Trim to be re-webbed. Decided on using RED! Went to visit Paul Coxon

Jan. 12/07 finished working on guages to get silver bezels. Mounted. Don't like the look. Decided to take rings from parts car guages and paint red. Painted and set aside to dry.

Jan. 13/07 today we finish rebulding the engine. Carefully re-did the front only to find out we have no endplay in the cam and the engine will not turn with force. Pull apart. Reseach how to get endplay. Must skim the cam plate down to get .001 - .002 clearance. Set aside to monday for machine shop. Installed red bezels on guages. Looks awesome! Installed parking brake dust boots. Installing rear brake lines onto differential and rear feed line from junction to rear axle. Installed centre hanger for new Stainless Steel exhaust. Temporarily fit muffler and centre pipe.

Installed red bezels on guages. Looks awesome!

Installed parking brake dust boots. Started installing rear brake lines onto differential

Jan. 14/07 started stripping rad and valve cover. Spent all afternoon stripping the rad and valve cover [will use the painted valve cover for testing and put the new polished one on for final]. Cleaned and masked the polished aluminum for red paint in the ribs. Took 2 hours to mask it. Researched why exhaust not lining up and found out others had the same problem. Supposed to fit once the weight is on the springs.

Jan. 15/07 took cam and plate to Kirk. Skimmed to 4 thou. Fits nicely. Finished building most of the engine. Need new rocker studs. Located and modified cap covers for the seat bolts.


Jan. 16/07 Continued build on engine ... water pump, mounts, painted rad, painted intake and started cleaning and polishing the twin SUs that were rebuilt two years ago and have sat gathering dust. Painted top of Valve Cover red.

Jan. 17/07: more bits painted. Valve cover turned out great.

Jan. 18/07: Installed fans and rad (temporarily for 'storage') Worked on engine and got it ready to mount onto the jig. Worked on carb cleanup and setup. Painted armrests and under dash covers.

Jan. 19/07 Transferred engine from the stand to the Jig. Using my B-JIG (front end clip from the old 78 parts car) I have installed the back plate, driven in the bush, installed the starter after making the grind modifications to the starter for clearance on the block and ring gear, and hooked up a battery using Twigworkers instructions in a previous post (thanks Jack) and low an behold she spins, disengages, and spins on command. So we have step one completed and tomorrow I will hook up the clutch, tranny and the supports. Once that's all done I'll take the jig for a spin around the block...... kidding!

Jan. 20/07: Completed the Rivergate installation and setup on the B-Jig. See details of the installation on this thread
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,494912

Jan. 21/07: Family in from Sudbury. No B work today but started costing the project in a spreadsheet for appraisal purposes. (Bryan and I fixed the oven door though and thereby cost justifed my Mig Welder!!!)

Jan. 22/07: Today we created 5 new panels for the interior. Have the two front kicks and one behind the radio left to do. Then we will recover with matching vinyl to the seats.

Jan. 23/07: Ordered two more wheels and tires for the trailer from Discount in Detroit. Fabricated front kick panels and one small dash panel. Fabricated new cowling for in front of the rad using pieces of panel board left over.

Jan. 24/07: Finished panel fabrication. Taking to Diamond Trim for sewing on the door stitching; spoke to Kim Chevalier about putting a logo on the rear deck panel. Raymond (painter) came over and examined my poor attempt to cut and buff the paint. Showed me how to fix it (whew) and this is going to take a few days to accomplish. Painted the stainless steel screws and cap s that will hold the panels in place. Painted to match the dash and console.

Jan. 25/07: After knocking down the nibs and buffing I could still see some peel. So I got bold and block sanded the clear with 2000 and lots and lots of water. Then I dried it with a wipe and some air and I could still see some shiny dots. More wet blocking until it was a dull flat red. Holding my breath that I would ever get it back I hit it with G3 with the buffer on the wool and WOW the shine came back and NO PEEL. Better yet no deep scratches like I managed to get on the other door from using 1500 and not keeping it wet enough to flush the clear out of the paper. That took a LOT of remedial buffing to get the scraches out. Thank goodness Raymond put on 4 coats of clear to accomodate my 'almost' screwup. So Rick, add another week to my schedule because this is going to take time and patience. But I am pleased I have finally learned how to do it right.

Anyway it is too cold to put the lump in the weekend because I need to back the car out of the garage to make room up front for the engine hoist. At -15C garage doors open - fugetaboutit!

Jan. 26/07: Took panels to Diamond trim to have red inlays installed; picked up red re-webbed seat belts. No to paint the buckles to match the dash. Took the rear panelto Kim Chevalier to get a logo embroidered. Started wet sanding the entire car with 2000.

Jan. 27/07: Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; Wet sanding; 6 hours of it today and about 6 yesterday. I even re-did the sections I had buffed becasuse I still could see peel. There are 17 sections to do on our MGB roadsters; 7 below the waist, 8 above the waist and the bonnet and boot lid.

Now I have to spray touch-up the lower RF fender where the paint sucked into the substrate and left a patch of pinholes.

Jan. 28/07: My arms are killing me. Finished doing the primary buff with G3 after wet sanding the hood flat for 3 hours. RF fender paint repair failed. Looks like hell. Buffed it off and will consult with Raymond. Preparing the garage for engine install tomorrow.

Jan. 29/07: Engine installed with Rivergate-Nissan 5 speed. Was so successful with neighbour Otto's capable assistance that I decided to bleed the clutch. That was a bummer. Could not get pedal.

Jan. 30/07: Called Will Perry. He suggested clamping and bleeding. 3 hours later I had pedal. Tested disengagement with Patty pressing the pedal and me turning the driveshaft by hand - working! Tried to bleed brakes. No luck. M/C not pumping. Ordered a new M/C from Fred [$300.00). Installed fans, rad and valve cover to at least feel like I was winning on something. Jan. 31/07: New M/C arrived. Also not pumping. Something is very wrong. Read the manual again. Discover that front caliper bleed screws are supposed to be on the top. Mine are on the bottom... calipers on the wrong side!! ARGH. Switched over and now bleeding. Got left side pedal then had to go out for dinner. Will try RF later. Got front calipers working. Can't get fluid to the rear. Will check tomorrow. All in all January was great progress]$300.00). Installed fans, rad and valve cover to at least feel like I was winning on something.

Jan. 31/07: New M/C arrived. Also not pumping. Something is very wrong. Read the manual again. Discover that front caliper bleed screws are supposed to be on the top. Mine are on the bottom... calipers on the wrong side!! ARGH. Switched over and now bleeding. Got left side pedal then had to go out for dinner. Will try RF later.

Got front calipers working. Can't get fluid to the rear. Will check tomorrow.

All in all January was great progress.

Dec. 01/06: Removed and replaced '75's cracked windscreen with 80's windscreen. Installed rubber seals - boot, bonnet, doors. Sort out seals for windscreen replacement.
Dec. 02/06: Worked on windscreeen glass replacement.
Dec. 03/06: FINALLY got it done. (bear of a job). Buffed cooling expansion tank to brass shine finish.
Dec. 04/06: Installed bottom windscreen rubber seal. Brutal job. Inserted 2x2 wood blocks under the rubber to let it relax for easier installation later.
Dec. 05/06: Prepped and installed quarter lights, windows and seals on top of doors.
Dec. 06/06: Painted windscreen wiper arms. Tapped and prepped engine bay bolt holes. Called Discount Tire in Detroit re new wheels and rubber.
Dec. 07/06: To Detroit to get wheels (Konig Theory TH65D0440S) Got 5 with P205/55R15 Dominator tires for $800.00 USD (plus an overnight stay in Detroit thanks to a brutal snow storm on the way through London Ontario and GST and PST at the border coming back!)
Dec. 08/06: Back from Detroit - stopped to see Fred in Troy to pick up parts.
Dec. 09/06: Helped Frank move. no work
Dec. 10/06: Painted brake lines; installed pedal box (prviously refurbished). Took engine parts to Ajax Engines (cam bearings etc). Worked on rear end re hubs/studs to decide what was needed to fit the new rims. 1/2 inch spacrs and longer studs needed.
Dec. 11/06: Installed oil pressure line; cleaned corner lights; made new socket for one using a Honda plug and bulb.
Dec. 12/06: Rear lights installed. Scissor lift arrived. Setup and positioned lift and test. Picked up horns from Candian Tire; picked up engine and head.
Dec. 13/06: Painted horn brackets. Installed horns.
Dec. 14/06: Inspected hubs for studs. Painted underside from tranny location forward with Red Tremclad. Wet sanded front bumper. Clear coat 3x. Two small runs; looks great. Found blemish on RF fender behind wheel. Need Raymond to examine. May need to re-shoot fender.
Dec. 15/06: (12am to 4am ugh) Rebuilt front brake calipers.
Dec. 16/06: Cut apart parts car. Installed LH front brake calipers with new bearings, rotors and brake hoses. Painted caliper red.
Dec. 17/06: Mocked up engine-tranny jig. Sorted parts for engine rebuild. Installed RF caliper. Removed rear hubs on 80.
Dec. 18/06: Seat covers arrived from Mr. Mikes. They look fantastic! Watched Video. Took hubs and spacers and 3" studs to Kirk for fitting up (ream to 14mm). Took future trailer hubs to be done as well.
Dec. 19/06: Jig frame and hood frame to Stafford Monuments for sandblasting. Removed front bumper from engine stand; mounted block. Removed cover from passenger seat. Researched 'heated seat' panels.
Dec. 20/06: Wet sanded right door and fender to remove runs from clear. Made a mess. Now have to wait for Raymond's help to fix it.
Dec. 21/06: Got hubs from Kirk. Installed and glued logos on wheels. Prepped engine parts. Traced all block holes with taps. Made ramps to raise B onto lift by 3-4 inches.
Dec. 22/06: Finisehd test fitting rear wheels with new studs, spaces and hubs. Banged in the 'hump' on the inner rear fender to gain 3/4" clearance. Moved hoist forward to clear rear wheels.
Dec. 23/06: Installed crank, bearings, pistons and cam. Decided needed new Cam pressure plate so stopped and ordered it. Prepped side covers, timing chanin cover and pan for painting.
Dec. 24/06: Test fit all external gaskets. Payen set is terrific.
Dec. 25/06: Christmas. SICK AS A DOG with Norwalk Virus. Christmas dinner cancelled.
Dec. 26/06: Sick
Dec. 27/06: Sick but managed to rebush rockers. Painted engine covers, sump and timing cover red. Feel rotten.
Dec. 28/06: Sought out Kirk at Ajax Engines to ream rocker bushings to 0.625. Can do. Left them with him. Discussed degreeing the cam. 3 degrees offset towards 1 o'clock.
Dec. 29/06: Made storage box for driver's side rear deck. Ordered chrome bumper plastic battery box liner for the space.
Dec. 30/06: Worked on paint/prep for rear axel. Discovered crunch sound form sandblasting. Decided not to use parts cars rear axel. Removed rear axel and springs. Start to wire wheel it.
Dec. 31/06: Spent all day cleaing rear axel for POR15 coverage. Painted one drum and axel cover red using new touch up gun. Looks good. Ran out of time before New Years Eve date. Rest will have to wait for next year.