http://www.autoshrine.com/ en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:45:07 -0800 15 4259 http://www./journal//4259 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:22:51 -0800 I have started a quest to find myself an MGB in good condition. In the early 80's I had purchased a 1980 MGB from a salvage yard that had an engine fire. If I remember correctly I think I paid $1,300 (US) for the car. The fire had stayed in the engine compartment and the rest of the car was in pretty good shape. To make a long story short..... I managed to get it back on the road and some of the best times of my life in that car.<br /> <br /> This weekend I am going to check out a 1980 MGB with 19,000 miles on it to start another adventure in my life.<br /> 4258 http://www./journal//4258 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:19:59 -0800 The car died yesterday and I panicked I blew the engine enjoying it on paradise Loop. Nope, a smog hose popped off. All good. Back on the road today. <br /> <br /> I am the third owner of this car in 31 years. It was garaged for last 15 driven a few miles a week. The good and the bad of it again.<br /> 4257 http://www./journal//4257 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 10:17:56 -0800 My MGb was too enthousiast, when I turned-off the key, the B won't stop immediately. So I installed an anti run-on servo.<br /> 4256 http://www./journal//4256 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:24:34 -0800 tomalas<br /> 4255 http://www./journal//4255 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:09:03 -0800 tomalas<br /> 4254 http://www./journal//4254 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:07:48 -0800 tomalas<br /> 4253 http://www./journal//4253 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:03:52 -0800 this is the last you will see of this new paint soon<br /> 4252 http://www./journal//4252 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:33:07 -0800 After about 3000 miles my former new startermotor died.<br /> So this is the new-one. I hope it's do his duty much longer.<br /> 4251 http://www./journal//4251 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:01:09 -0800 Now onto the removal of the steering and the dash ... should be fun :-)<br /> <br /> I got that Steering Wheel Removal Tool at Pep Boys ... has come in handy for may things !!!<br /> 4250 http://www./journal//4250 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:46:39 -0800 I'm making a new egg crate style grill for my MG out of aluminum, it's looking great so far<br /> 4249 http://www./journal//4249 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 10:35:18 -0800 The tire issues seem to be resolved since I've not had another flat since the pinched tube was replaced. As long as the weather cooperates I've decided not to put the car up for the winter, at least until it snows and they dump salt on the road. So far I am keeping it to short trips because I still have to get the driveshaft off and replace a bad u joint. This weekend it was 60 degrees and although cloudy- a very mild day for November in Upstate New York. Maybe there is an upside to global warming!<br /> 4248 http://www./journal//4248 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:24:09 -0800 After I started driving this car regularly (2 or 3 times a week) there was a bit of sorting out that needed to be done after each outing. <br /> 1) The air conditioner unit was drawing so much power from the ignition it tripped the ignition relay shutting down the car. Isolating the AC fixed the problem<br /> 2) Cheap fuse holder. I bought an in-line plastic fuse holder from the local car parts store and put it on the electric fans. The clear plastic fuse holder (it is for a glass type fuse) melted shutting off the cooling fans. Fortunately I was close to home. I replaced the fuse holder with one from an old MGB wire harness and it has held up beautifully.<br /> 3) Filling up the cooling system with antifreeze to the top of the in-line hose filler resulted in an antifreeze dump all over the road when the engine reached operating temperature and the thermostat opened up. I tried a higher pound cap but that didn't help. Overheating was never a problem, so I stopped filling it up and let it find its own level...<br /> 4247 http://www./journal//4247 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:23:31 -0800 Today (Nov. 16, 2009) I took out the radiator and some other components. going to take it to a shop and make sure the radiator is good.<br /> 4246 http://www./journal//4246 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:46:24 -0800 Well it's definately been too long since lot's of work had been done on "The Queen" but now that the weather here in the Middle East has reached it's best, so has my motivation to continue with the project.<br /> <br /> Back in May The Queen was returned to my garage. After a short try to restart the engine, I noticed that there was some sort of short circuit inside the wiring. I've taken this as a chance to order new wiring harnesses etc. and I am currently waiting for these to be delivered. Once they are here I plan on redoing all the wiring (if anyone has a good wiring plan please let me know). <br /> <br /> A couple of weeks ago I started putting all the bits and pieces back together. TRIUMPH lettering, bumpers, lights etc. It's taking longer to put it all back together than I expected, but it's coming along slowly but surely. <br /> <br /> One major problem I've experienced is that putting the indicator lights back in, it seems like the bodyshop has aligned the holes wrong and I therefore can not f...<br /> 4245 http://www./journal//4245 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:31:17 -0800 Have spent most of the weekend applying deoderized fish oil into every nook and cranny that I can find within the body, doors and hood. Still have to get the new bootlid back from the spray shop and then I'll give that the treatment as well. i see the bootlid as particularly vulnerable to rust around the lower seam areas as the metal is totally un protected there. We sepecially created some holes in the lower outer sills as well as some in the inner sills to make sure that we could get the fluid right in where it counts.<br /> <br /> The body is now standing dripping oil out through many crevices, and when that stops we will apply a body wax or maybe Tectyl into the same areas to try and seal them off. Being close to the sea as well as New Zealands massive annual rainfall means that these cars are very vulnerable to rust.<br /> <br /> The new floors, sills and rear wings will have left some exposed weld areas where there is no protection.<br /> 4244 http://www./journal//4244 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:18:40 -0800 And here's a picture of the finished K&N installation<br /> 4243 http://www./journal//4243 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:15:18 -0800 Well, the work on the little things has begun. Finished the valve cover and installed a K&N air filter. Painted both the valve cover and the air filter cover a hammered silver. <br /> <br /> Finished today the re-done center console under the dash. Carbon fiber plate with new switches plus a walnut surround. I'm happy with how it turned out.<br /> 4242 http://www./journal//4242 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:50:58 -0800 Today (Nov.14, 2009) I had taken off the hoses and took out some bolts and screws.<br /> 4241 http://www./journal//4241 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:13:11 -0800 Teardown in progress. Gas tank and radiator out and both need replaced. Rubber bumpers are off (will be converting to chrome. Master Cyl out - also needs replaced - too rusty inside to service, brake calipers are servicable. Carb, manifold off (plan on replacing with dual SUs - looking for used and may be on to some, steering rack seems ok - just need to replace gators. 11/14/09<br /> 4240 http://www./journal//4240 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 16:44:51 -0800 MY INTEREST WITH MGS STARTED BACK IN 1974 AT PENSACOLA, FLORIDA WHEN I PURCHASED MY FIRST MGB. I HAD THIS VEHICLE UNTIL 1980 WHEN I WAS TRANSFERED OVERSEAS TO JAPAN FOR A THREE YEAR TOUR OF MILITARY AND I SOLD THE CAR. I'VE REGRETED SELL IT EVER. ABOUT A YEAR AGO, MY YOUNGEST SON SUGGESTED THAT I PURCHASE ANOTHER AND RESTORE IT. SO THAT is WHAT I'VE DONE.<br /> <br /> CURRENTLY I AM IN THE PROCESS OF RESTORING A 1980 B WHICH I FOUND IN PA. THE VEHICLE IS IN PRETTY ROUGH SHAPE WILL REQUIRE REPLACEMENT OF SEVERAL BODY AND FLOOR PANEL. THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT HAS BEEN GUTTED OF ALL EMISSION EQUIPMENT BUT HTE ENGINE IS STILL INTACT.<br /> <br /> I RECENTLY PULLED OUT THE DASH PANEL AND I AM IN THE PROCESS OF REBURBISHING THE GAGES AND REPLACIG THE DASH PAD.<br /> 4239 http://www./journal//4239 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 06:21:03 -0800 A new steering wheel completes the interior. <br /> Door panels were on a budget too. The old panels were used to cut new ones from fiber board (Home Depot) and vinyl and some quilt batting from the local fabric shop was installed with cup-washers and screws. Other interior panels were made the same way.<br /> 4238 http://www./journal//4238 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 06:08:42 -0800 Leather Miata seats from an early year Miata almost bolt right in. They were cheaper than re-covering the stock MGB seats with the Moss kit in vinyl, and they are more comfortable. A win/win situation.<br /> <br /> After removing the Miata seat belt receivers, I could use the front stock MGB mounting bolts and captive nuts but had to drill two holes for the rear mounting bolts.<br /> The rear mounting points were drilled through some pretty thin metal so I welded large flat washers on the top and backed them underneath with backing plates that went between both rear bolts.<br /> 4237 http://www./journal//4237 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 06:00:04 -0800 The carpet is from Home Depot. Total cost $35. I used 3M upholstery adhesive in a can (the yellow stuff)to install it.<br /> 4236 http://www./journal//4236 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:10:58 -0800 1967 MARK I<br /> 4235 http://www./journal//4235 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:02:50 -0800 CHUCK'S B 1967 MKI<br /> 4234 http://www./journal//4234 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:55:05 -0800 How long should it take to change fluids and inspect the brakes? As long as it takes I guess. And starting ownership in the fall looks like it will take longer than I thought.<br /> <br /> Not that I'm in any hurry. I decided right off the bat that spending time with my B in the garage was going to be part of the enjoyment. But I did not take into account that "daylight savings time" was going to cut my work time down by an hour. <br /> <br /> So I only have half an hour of tinkering time and most nights none at all. The result being my oil change spanned two nights and other simple tasks which should have taken little or no time at all have not even been started.<br /> <br /> The good new is that tomorrow is Saturday and I don't have to work AND it's supposed to be sunny and over 60°f.<br /> Time to tackle those front brakes (rear already done) and finish my fluid check. Then maybe I can start to track down why so many of my dash electrical components don't work!<br /> 4233 http://www./journal//4233 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 07:42:06 -0800 GHN 5UJ465172 Canadian Mark IV<br /> Original purchase date unknown, original owner unknown<br /> Survivors - Drivers handbook, consumer Information, Owner Identicard, tags and key code tag (metal), in original(?)clear/blue holder, service records unfortunately not filled in...<br /> <br /> February 1988 -appears to be owned by D. Newell - Vancouver B.C.<br /> Sept 1987 New Robbins top $250.00 - Octagon Motors<br /> Tail light 24.95<br /> Flasher - $7.95<br /> Ignition Lock assembly $134.95 <br /> Door handle $18.00<br /> <br /> Sept 1987 Radiator repair $60.23 (has a modified electric 12V, switch plumbed into the rad, old one still beside it, still works but ugly as sin)<br /> <br /> Feb 2, 1988 new muffler &amp; front , rear bearing re pack $173.00<br /> Oct. 26, 1988 new front pads &amp; trans seal - $102.25<br /> Oct 18, 1989 replaced pinion seal $70.36<br /> Jan 19, 1989 Replaced Emerg brake cable $28.87<br /> <br /> Somewhere around 1989 Ownership changes to Annette Spick Powell Rive...<br /> 4232 http://www./journal//4232 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:17:45 -0800 Drove the MGB-LE home last month around the 10th of October of 2009. It was then and still is original meaning no after market or non-factory parts at this point. <br /> <br /> Believing in your purchase is dangerous; but critical in decisions around making repairs. I got ripped off so to speak on this car or was it a misunderstanding? Misrepresentation more likely so watch for the old guy in the East Bay (Relax no worries he has no more MG's selling).<br /> <br /> It drove fine until I got on the freeway to home about 70 miles away then it sputtered, popped, crackled, overheated and died! Bad news for me on a short budget instead of spending my $$$ on a Honda. I bought an MG! But I thought well it starts up every time it craps out (that's good). Once at 45 MPH plus, it runs solid in a straight line (that's good). Fire blowing out the back (that's not good). I got it home. But what to do next? As I grew up with British cars being the daughter of a Royal Naval Officer. I looked at the positive and decided ...<br /> 4231 http://www./journal//4231 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 11:41:10 -0800 Super lite wheels 15 X 6 with Bridgestone RE960AS 205/65/15 tires were fitted. <br /> <br /> The 65 profile tires were used to get a little lower RPM at speed. That combined with the MGB stock rear end and 0.65 5th gear ratio on the T5 transmission translates into about 2000 RPM at 65 MPH, which is very comfortable. Plus there is plenty of torque to spin the rear wheels in 1st or 2nd gear (and probably 3rd if I was willing to abuse it).<br /> <br /> The rear end is a stock MGB steel wheel tube type rear end. No spacers were required. The wheels sit in the middle of the wheel well and don't rub inside or out. The rear wheel wells were flared only slightly but didn't need to be to fit the tires. <br /> <br /> The front tires just touch the header coming through the wheel well when the steering is to full lock, but it hasn't been an issue.<br /> 4230 http://www./journal//4230 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 11:29:36 -0800 I used the string method to align the front tires. I learned this trick to align the wheels on a motorcycle. Basically a string is run from each back wheel to the font wheels and some heavy thing is used to anchor the string across the center of the wheel. In the picture you can see I'm using a gas can on one side. <br /> Toe-in is set at 1/8" between the string and the forward edge of the wheel. Both sides must be set at the same time with the steering wheel centered.<br /> 4229 http://www./journal//4229 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 10:40:56 -0800 To fit under the hood (bonnet) a drop base and low profile air filter were used. The filter is a K&N with a Summit Racing air filter assembly top.<br /> 4228 http://www./journal//4228 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 10:33:06 -0800 An Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and Edelbrock carburetor were added to the top of the 3.9L Rover V8. The carburetor has a manual choke. Since I used an earlier style dash I was able to install a choke pull in the original place. <br /> The 500CFM carburetor is a little big for the engine so I went one stage lean. That fixed a stumble that was occurring when I got back on the gas.<br /> The large black hose goes on the front of the carburetor provides vacuum to the break booster and the other smaller hose is the vacuum advance for the distributor. <br /> In this picture you can also see the filler for the coolant on the top radiator hose (Summit racing again).<br /> 4227 http://www./journal//4227 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 06:37:12 -0800 Disclaimer: read and use this information at your own risk. This is a report of my experiences.<br /> <br /> Previously I described how I modified carbs using only the simplest tools. In this procedure I used a hole saw in a drill press. In this case I modified a 1.75 inch ZS carb body and I used a 1 3/4 inch hole saw from harbor freight. It gives an attractive result immediately.<br /> <br /> This is the procedure I used:<br /> <br /> <br /> Step 1 clamp (or affix in some fashion) carb body in drill press<br /> <br /> Step 2 Center the carb body so you can drill out the center with a hole saw.<br /> <br /> Step 3 Dress out the edge of the manifold side of the opening <br /> <br /> Step 4 Install Injector holder (usually with injectors in place)<br /> <br /> Step 5 Install cover which is a secondary retainer for the injectors <br /> <br /> Step 6 (optional) Declare visctory and take the rest of the day off. (humor)<br /> <br /> Pictures of the process and result are sho...<br /> 4226 http://www./journal//4226 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:18:31 -0800 I have owned several old cars through restoration as I find the restoration process a labor of love. After spending several months of looking through Craig List ads I found this little MGB Roadster. It is a second owner car. An original California Black Plate 1966 painted British Racing Green. We brought her home last weekend and began the process of inventorying parts and making restoration notes. She looks solid except some rust in the floor boards. I enjoy the gathering of information and restoration ideas. This should be a fun project for my son and I.<br /> 4225 http://www./journal//4225 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:10:03 -0800 Owned a Midget in my earlier years and my wife says I am going through a mid life crisis or whatever, just knew I had to have another project so here I am.<br /> 4224 http://www./journal//4224 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:43:20 -0800 Well today the MGB went to Camp to be stored in the Tabernacle - it was a beautiful drive and temps as +10 today. We are planning on getting her out Easter weekend 2010 - I can't wait(:})<br /> 4223 http://www./journal//4223 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 04:18:03 -0800 We have had a stretch of unusually beautiful weather for November and as long as it hasn't snowed enough for there to be salt on the roads yet I am still driving the MGB. This past weekend was just perfect, sunny and almost 70 degrees..in November in New York! Top down and loving it. We found the bad tire had a pinched tube, so after installing a new tube and slowly inflating it, bouncing it a few times and fully inflating it, all is well again.<br /> 4222 http://www./journal//4222 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 21:09:55 -0800 9/11/2009 car at machanic having new front end and general check up. Spent 3 hours polishing the chrome wheels. Looking for info re the tow in &amp; out for wheel allignment??<br /> 4221 http://www./journal//4221 Sun, 08 Nov 2009 04:56:29 -0800 Last week I received a certified copy of the factory record. Send by British Motor Industry Heritage Trust.<br /> This certificate shows a true copy of an entry in the original factory records for my vehicle (MGb roadster) with the chassis number quoted. These are the details of my car as it left the assembly line.<br /> 4220 http://www./journal//4220 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 18:44:50 -0800 I never seem to update this page, BUT I have a new and different page for Charlotte on the very useful blogsite "Posterous": http://mgbgt.posterous.com<br /> <br /> The great thing about Posterous is that you post blog entries, including photos, video, links etc., by emailing the text and photos to Posterous, and in moments, the new post is completed. They automatically format your post, so it's very very easy. <br /> <br /> Once again, Charlotte's new page there (also named "Charlotte's Web") is at: http://mgbgt.posterous.com <br /> <br /> Here is a photo of Charlotte's new bonnet strap and relocated bonnet release....<br /> 4219 http://www./journal//4219 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 11:39:56 -0800 I cleaned up the leaf springs out of the 73 to put in the B. They are the ones to the left in the pic, the one on the right is the original out of the 74. The 73 spring has one less leaf and the metal seems a little less beefy. It's hard to tell by the pic but the 74 spring also has a little more of a bow to it. I'm hoping the ride level will be a little lower with the 73 springs in. New Gabriel shocks were bought yesterday for a less harsh ride and the brake drums were dropped off to be turned before they are put back on the rear end.<br /> 4218 http://www./journal//4218 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 09:47:56 -0800 This is a view of the LH dog leg after cutting, clean up &amp; re-welding. Not too many issues here, just needed a good clean out &amp; rust treatment.<br /> Sure be nice if the rear wings were bolt on like the front.<br /> 4217 http://www./journal//4217 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 09:41:47 -0800 Sill repair complete with a coat of Epoxy Primer.<br /> 4216 http://www./journal//4216 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 05:04:35 -0800 I got the carburetor taken all the way apart and cleaned in some carburetor cleaner, this made a tremendous different in idle, and responsiveness, as well as top speed. I got it up to 65 mph, and felt like there was more there. Not quite ready to go there until I get a lock washer on the steering wheel so it doesn't fly off at a bad time :)<br /> <br /> I got parts ordered for 2 new handles to roll up/down the windows, new windshield wipers, and new demister tubes (they carry the heat to the vents), as well as a new top liner, which seals the top against the top of the window so rain can't come in.<br /> <br /> I hope to get all that installed and done next week.<br /> 4215 http://www./journal//4215 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 05:01:38 -0800 The original dash wire harness was cut up and used to rewire the gauges. That way I was able to keep the connectors that plug into the rest of the harness.<br /> <br /> The picture shows a mess of wires but eventually all the wires were wrapped with blue wire harness tape from Moss to make it neat and tidy.<br /> 4214 http://www./journal//4214 Fri, 06 Nov 2009 04:56:15 -0800 I removed the entire wire harness from the car (makes it easier to paint too) so I could go over every connection with a metal nail file/ sand paper and a dab of dielectric grease. <br /> There were so many changes to the original wiring harness that I can't cover them all here. Briefly, relays (you can see all 5 of them in the picture) were added for AC, Fuel pump, starter, ignition, and cooling fans. The original fuse box was used but only the lights and ignition wiring remained stock. <br /> I used a 2 wire 110Amp Powermaster alternator and ran two heavy wires from the starter to carry the extra load. I also had to run a dedicated wire to the AC circuit because it was pulling to much power from the ignition switched circuits shutting off the ignition relay.<br /> 4213 http://www./journal//4213 Thu, 05 Nov 2009 14:44:05 -0800 Ordered MGA water pump on Sunday from LBC recieved it on Wed. It is cast iron and looks good. Made in India.<br /> While I had radiator out decided to clean up front of engine. Painted the pump original maroon and touched up engine. As usual a 2 hour job is taking a week or so.<br /> 4212 http://www./journal//4212 Thu, 05 Nov 2009 10:08:59 -0800 I still have my dad's old 75 MGB, and it's been sitting out for a quite a while.<br /> <br /> I'm in the middle of planning/budgeting for my wedding, but I'm also trying to budget a plan to revitalize the old car.<br /> <br /> I know I need new floor pans, probably some extensive engine work, etc. <br /> <br /> Any recommendations on tweaking the engine to gain as much HP once I've begun work?<br /> 4211 http://www./journal//4211 Wed, 04 Nov 2009 09:31:20 -0800 Back to the future. So, I bought a red '53 TD from Craig Siler in Salem, OR, to actually inspire me to do the work on the green TD, and I think it's working.<br /> <br /> Anyway, I was talked into going to the 2nd Annual British Car Show in Woodstock, NY and my red TD won Best in Class, and showed up on the internet. Here is a picture of the red one.<br /> <br /> I'm in the process of obtaining some better parts for the green one and will try to keep some progress info on the restoration on this site.<br /> <br /> If anyone knows were I can get a decent radiator shell, please let me know.<br /> 4210 http://www./journal//4210 Wed, 04 Nov 2009 09:24:11 -0800 Maybe I need to give a little history here. I have a older '53 TD that I purchased from Abingdon Spares' Bob Seymour as a pile of parts a few years back that are now spread out in my garage. The car has not had much done to it. That is to say, I'm a bit overwhelmed by the prospect of restoring the bent and rusted fenders and body parts, engine not started for an unknown period of time ... sort of a not very good, but mostly complete, parts car. Well, in the meantime, I decided to get a car I could drive and have next to the pile of parts to inspire any garage elves to spin the parts into a shinny restored MG TD. So far, I think they are just taking the drivable car out for a spin at night, because the parts haven't moved much.<br /> 4209 http://www./journal//4209 Tue, 03 Nov 2009 21:17:53 -0800 Legal Disclaimer: The following is my opinion for which I hold no liability. Use this information at your own risk. It involves using pressurized flammable material which can cause injury to property, person, or death. You read this at your own risk and agree to not sue me for any information provided here or its influence on you.<br /> <br /> Modifying the 1.5 SU’s for “Bottom Up” EFI<br /> <br /> The 1.5 inch SU’s can retain a “stock look” and serve as throttle body injection devices when they are irreversibly modified. It greatly improves the air flow through the carburetor body. I have done this with 2 sets of mine. It can be done with carbs in very poor condition (e.g. sticky/stuck risers, loose throttle shafts, leaky floats, etc.). This is what I did:<br /> <br /> 1. I first removed the ‘dome’, bottom plate and the contents of the float bowl. I also removed all the other stuff from the outside of the carb. I left the throttle plate in place.<br /> <br /> 2. I drilled severa...<br /> 4208 http://www./journal//4208 Tue, 03 Nov 2009 11:33:21 -0800 On Friday Oct 30 I had everything loaded in my new tagalong trailer to go down to the Chattanooga Choo Choo for our car show. Fired up the MGA with trailer in tow and started down town. Got about a third of the way and heard a rattling sound. Tried to ignore it but it got the best of me. Checked under the bonnet and found a rattling water pump shaft. Back to the house thot I had a spare. After removing said pump and preparing to put spare in I noticed the spare was about half inch to tall<br /> Oh whell! Loaded the GT and went to show. Had loads of fun as usual.<br /> 4207 http://www./journal//4207 Tue, 03 Nov 2009 05:05:20 -0800 The gauges are by Auto Meter and the style is Antique Beige (from Summit Racing). The gauges are set in a 1973 style dash. The oil gauge in the center and the amp meter (bottom left) and clock (bottom right) had to be rounded out for the gauges to fit. All the others fit right in. <br /> The Auto Meter gauges came with instructions and sending units making it easy to install them. For the electronic speedometer, I used the stock sending unit already located on the T5 transmission. The speedometer is programmable. You set it based on a measured distance and it adjusts for any gear ratio and tire size to read the proper speed. Very trick.<br /> 4206 http://www./journal//4206 Tue, 03 Nov 2009 04:51:06 -0800 A drive shaft was made from recommendations obtained on this BBS. It is made from 2" tubing so it clears the emergency brake lever. The yokes and U-joints are Spicer and the numbers are; Splined yoke for Camaro T5 2-3-6081X, weld yokes for 2" shaft 2-28-357, 1310 U-joints 1-0153, flange yoke for MG rear 2-3-899-1. I had a local truck equipment/parts place make it for me. Total cost was a little over $300.<br /> The builder said it would handle over 300 HP.<br /> In the picture the original MGB drive shaft is in the background and the new drive shaft for the V8 is in front.<br /> 4205 http://www./journal//4205 Mon, 02 Nov 2009 17:01:19 -0800 I bought this 1975 MGB from an older gentleman who had purchased it new for his daughter when she graduated from high school. She drove it until she passed it on to her brother whom drove it until it went back to dad. Been in the same family for almost 30 years. Had a new (different year) engine installed at some time and the Stromburg taken off and a down draft Weber installed. <br /> I had a 74 1/2 GT rust bucket that I scavagened parts off (engine, carbs, sway bar, etc.) and rebuilt the engine, set the cam timing back to pre emission standards, took off the Weber and put th twin SU's from the 74 1/2 on. I also rebuilt the front end. New MGC bushings, 1" lower springs from Moss Motors, sway bar off the 74 1/2 and any other misc parts that needed replacement.<br /> Before I did all this work the car was a dog. Poor accleration, swayed in the corners and generally a dissapointment. Now it is like the 64 I owned back in the early 70's (wish I still had that one!!)<br /> 4204 http://www./journal//4204 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 20:30:47 -0800 Well today I finished the car that was taking up space there. Now all I kneed to do is clean up a little and push her in, yes her, all my cars have been hers, I just haven't came up with a name yet.<br /> I've got all the parts lined up on tables and have taken inventory, and everything is there. I'm working on an outline of work so I won't have to put stuff on and then take nit back off to get to something else.<br /> My heat is ready and waiting. It should be a good smooth winter, with a top down spring to tune and play.<br /> <br /> Later<br /> Foxy<br /> 4203 http://www./journal//4203 Sun, 01 Nov 2009 06:50:42 -0800 It is now November 2009. I did drive the car back with no heat all the way and it ran well. IT sat for a couple months while I goatherd material and media blasted the 30 years worth of rust and crap off of the bottom of the car. I did not remove all the springs front end etc as I wanted to get some driving in. IT did get a major make over new brakes all around, new shocks on front, heater core and wiring.<br /> <br /> The wiring was my fault. A very expensive lesson. Later I added a new distributor and major tune up. So I am into it for about an additional 5K.<br /> 4202 http://www./journal//4202 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:19:52 -0700 Took the car for its first inspection in NB - It past!!<br /> We just had to work on the brake switch to get it going again - now I have brake lights. Just need to repalce the one backup light.<br /> 4201 http://www./journal//4201 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:09:45 -0700 I am not sure what to write, but we are always sad this time of year to see the days get shorter, and the driving opportunities few as fall has arrived.<br /> <br /> But it was a good summer and I'm glad that just a year ago, we had some tune up work done on our '80 MGB and it starts &amp; drives so much better!<br /> <br /> I've thought of having a sport muffler put on it to enhance that good old 4 cylinder sound, but at this point, I am not sure it'd be worth it, since we drive about 100 miles or so a year!<br /> <br /> Interesting to see the MGB-GT "Police Car" in the new NAMGR magazine this month. AND the MGB being trailered behind a U-Haul; something similar to what we'll have to do in a few years when we retire and move to Missouri from Indiana. <br /> <br /> So that's it for this first installment. I need to check to see if I can post a brief video to this site.<br /> <br /> Greetings, all, from n/e Indiana.<br /> 4200 http://www./journal//4200 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 18:05:56 -0700 It is very simple to make. I took the old valve off and using a hacksaw cut though it . See pictures. Then drill out the hole with a 7/16" drill bit. Thread the hole with a 1/4"N.P.T. tap (go to Harbor Freight for that tap. N.P.T. stands for "National Pipe Thread". It's totally different than regular nut and bolt threads. It is specific to plumbing fixtures. The outside dimension of the pipe nipples is really 1/2", but the 1/4" refers to the inside diameter of the pipe.) All fittings are 1/4"NPT.Get a 90 degree fitting, male and female threads. Thread the male end into the old valve base. Thread a short pipe into female end of angle fitting. Thread the ball valve onto that pipe. Thread another pipe into other end of ball valve and clamp the heater hose to it. You are done. I used Permatex non hardening gasket paste when mounting the assembly to the block. Sure you can't open and close it from inside the cockpit, but in cold climates who cares? You want it on all the time. My Florida friends actually came up w...<br /> 4199 http://www./journal//4199 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:07:46 -0700 I have put together a 92 Camaro 3.1 V6 with 2 barrel carb, manifold and GM HEI Ignition from an 82 S-10. The trans is a 94 Camaro T5 and bell housing.<br /> <br /> After cleaning up the grunge and applying some paint to the engine bay I tried a first fit today. Lots of ins and outs all basically surrounding the clutch assembly. I tried to use a Triumph slave mounted to a custom bracket as per Bills posts but there is just not enough room without a significant modification to the tunnel and floor under the gas pedal.<br /> <br /> I admitted defeat and ordered an HTOB from BMC. There is just no way to make that system work with the T5 bell housing. I suspect the S-10 will work as Scott and Bill have discussed at length but at this point I could not find an S-10 part and figured I would go with what works.<br /> <br /> Will remove the clutch bracket tomorrow and do the final fit and measurements. Take it our for a second and last painting and be ready for final install when the HTOB arrives.<br /> <...<br /> 4198 http://www./journal//4198 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:41:27 -0700 The paint buffed out pretty good for setting 18 years. It has almost no rust. So getting it safe for the road is project # one.<br /> 4197 http://www./journal//4197 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:29:09 -0700 I snapped these picts. next to my small lake(pond is a better term). Mazda rear wheel so it would roll.<br /> 4196 http://www./journal//4196 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:16:37 -0700 The front suspension was completely dismantled, cleaned up and painted with POR15. It was completely reassembled on the bench then attached to the bottom of the car. <br /> The front sway bar is not yet attached in this picture which is why the red poly bushings are still visible. I have to install the radiator before I can attach the front sway bar. That is how tight it is in there.<br /> 4195 http://www./journal//4195 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:07:49 -0700 Here is a picture of the rear end with the shock mounts, antitramp bar, and antisway bar. All the bushings on the suspension are the red poly bushings from Energy Suspension.<br /> New thrust washers for the differential gear and pinion were installed along with a new split pin. And the rear end was painted with POR15.<br /> 4194 http://www./journal//4194 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:04:33 -0700 Now the fun begins. Putting it back together. All winter I was cleaning and painting (POR15 of course) parts. Here you can see the clutch and brake master cyl. and brake booster, along with the heater box, AC hoses and the shock link that will attach to the back of the engine serving as an engine steady bar. Also shown are the reinforcing rings on the openings in the wheel wells for the headers. <br /> <br /> The engine bay looks pretty roomy now, but it is going to fill up fast!<br /> 4193 http://www./journal//4193 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:57:47 -0700 Then I flipped it over and put "brush on" truck bed liner called Raptor on the bottom and the wheel wells.<br /> <br /> Between the POR15 (see previous entry) and truck bed liner, it is virtually rust proof.<br /> <br /> I also sprayed Penetrol inside the sills to rust proof them too.<br /> 4192 http://www./journal//4192 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:53:24 -0700 Once all the body modifications were made, the car was completely disassembled and painted inside with Por15. The engine bay and interior including the boot was painted gray, and black POR15 was put on all the other high rust areas.<br /> 4191 http://www./journal//4191 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:49:52 -0700 After years of wishing for a British sports car, I finally found myself in a position to get one. This B has undergone a nice cosmetic restoration: new paint, carpet, detailing, etc. I'm ready to start learning and to start making this one "mine." <br /> <br /> First tasks: Pulled off the old valve cover, sanded and repainted, losing the funky maroon paint. I also got rid of the stock air cleaners and installed a K&N kit.<br /> <br /> Next item: the dash center panel is old and tired. Pulled off the vinyl covering. Have cut and installed a carbon fiber face to the panel and new switches. Am now working on a walnut trim surround for the console. Will post pics when finished.<br /> 4190 http://www./journal//4190 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:48:13 -0700 One of the backing plates for the roll bar consisted of this angle iron to improve body stiffness.<br /> 4189 http://www./journal//4189 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:46:12 -0700 I know some don't like them but roll bars don't bother me aesthetically and this being a V8 conversion I wanted to try to add some stiffening to the body. All of the mounting points are backed with steel plates and grade 5 bolts are used all around.<br /> I believe you could pick up the car by the roll bar.<br /> 4188 http://www./journal//4188 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:42:30 -0700 Leather Mazda Miata seats were fitted. The original mounting points were used for the front bolts and two new holes were drilled for the rear. In addition, backing plates under the floor pan were added to the back mounts.<br /> I used these seats because the MGB seats were trashed and it would have cost more to fix them then it did to buy these LEATHER seats, and the almost bolt right in. In addition, the Miata seats provide more support and are more comfortable in my opinion.<br /> 4187 http://www./journal//4187 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:41:31 -0700 Since I'm not going to attempt anything on my new MGB until the books I ordered come in and I purchase some basic shop equipment (I don't even have a floor jack!), I'm just going to sit in her, have a beer and contemplate a name.<br /> <br /> I had never even considered naming the car until someone on the forum asked about it. Not that I haven't named vehicles before. While driving my very first pickup truck home the radio was playing a country song called "Daddy Frank". Somehow it fit and the name stuck. Another pickup suffered major candy damage from my then 6 year old eating Butterfinger bars in the back seat and being none to neat about the candy crumbs she dropped. That truck became affectionately known as "Butterfinger".<br /> <br /> Those names came about by accident so I am thinking maybe I should wait until the B "speaks to me". But on the other hand picking a name might be fun too.<br /> <br /> To start with, I am a big fan of 70's classic rock music and one of my favorite artists happens to b...<br /> 4186 http://www./journal//4186 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:09:07 -0700 Glen Towery's mounting brackets were used for the tramp bars. The fine thread bolt allows precise adjustment of the tramp bars. <br /> <br /> I did not use a panhard rod. The tramp bars seem to do a very good job of locating the rear end. Under normal street conditions, the rear end really digs in under hard acceleration. Perhaps if the car was being autocrossed or raced, it would be a different story.<br /> <br /> You can also see the Koni tube shock mounting point in this picture. The lower shock mounts were sourced from Autozone in the HELP section.<br /> 4185 http://www./journal//4185 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:05:24 -0700 To keep the stock MGB rear end located and put power to the ground adjustable tramp bars were made. Glen Towery's tramp bars were modified by cutting them, welding a nut on to the longest end of the hollow bar, and a 5" long fine thread grade 5 half inch bolt was welded to the other end. The bolt is threaded into the nut welded on the bar and a jam nut keeps it in place. Probably I didn't need the jam nut since it is located and prevented from turning with the mounting brackets, but why take chances.<br /> The nuts welded onto the bars are ground smooth in this picture. The nut that is clearly visible is the jam nut.<br /> 4184 http://www./journal//4184 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:03:23 -0700 RV8 style headers were ceramic coated inside and out by Jet-Hot to increase longevity and decrease temperatures in the engine bay. Ceramic coating was expensive should pay for its self in the long run, and they look good.<br /> 4183 http://www./journal//4183 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 04:55:12 -0700 A reinforcing ring was made from some sheet metal and a lot of manipulation with a hammer to strengthen the fender where the headers will pass through.<br /> 4182 http://www./journal//4182 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 13:42:57 -0700 Mine is probably not an uncommon story. We either owned or knew someone who owned an MG in our youth and now we just have to recapture that moment later in life. My wife calls it my mid-life crisis. I say, no, I'm just trying to pick up chicks.<br /> <br /> After searching the local papers, auto trader mags, online ads, visiting car shows and asking anyone who might know anything about a car for sale I finally found the right MGB! It wasn't easy though! <br /> <br /> I took the advise I read in an article here to heart... don't be afraid to walk away. I walked countless times. It's easy when you reach under a car and poke your finger through what should be metal!!<br /> <br /> Those that had not been eaten away by the rust monster were sold or spoken for by the time I called the seller.<br /> <br /> Finally I found one on Ebay that looked nice and it was located only about 45 minutes from my house! So I called the guy and asked if I could inspect it before I placed a bid and was actually on my way... ...<br /> 4181 http://www./journal//4181 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 07:35:36 -0700 Well she (Magie) had the oil flushed and changed, the clutch blead, new lugage rack insalled, a wire short fixed, points cleaned up and a new parking brake installed.<br /> 4180 http://www./journal//4180 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:44:37 -0700 The low profile vents were purchased with the Superfrost kit. Round ones were also available. The low profile rectangular vents work nicely maintaining leg room.<br /> <br /> You can also see the position of the control unit in this picture.<br /> <br /> One big issue with this setup was the amount of power the unit needs. It comes with its own 20 amp fuse and I ran it through a relay, but power was being pulled from the switched side of the original fuse block. This didn't work. It pulled to much power from the ignition relay shutting the engine down. Since the AC unit has its own fuse, I ran a dedicated wire directly from the starter to power the unit. This solved the problem.<br /> 4179 http://www./journal//4179 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:42:08 -0700 The dryer was located next to the radiator to minimize hoses running every where. And lets face it, there wasn't really any other place to put it. It is getting crowded in there.<br /> 4178 http://www./journal//4178 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:15:32 -0700 Routing of AC hoses. Firewall connection obtained from Summit Racing.<br /> 4177 http://www./journal//4177 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:12:57 -0700 508 compressor with D&D mounting brackets<br /> 4176 http://www./journal//4176 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:10:22 -0700 Condenser in front of radiator<br /> 4175 http://www./journal//4175 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:09:08 -0700 With all this horsepower I decided to go for the ultimate in luxury, air conditioning in a convertible. All components were purchased from Southern Rod. It has a 508 style compressor and the evaporator unit hoses and vents come as a kit from Superfrost.The evaporator just fits under the dash on the passengers side. The condenser comes from Southern Rod and fits nicely in front of the radiator. Note that the rear edge of the radiator duct panel (the pan in front of the radiator) had to be rolled under to provide about a half inch of space for the condenser. The compressor mounts come from D&D.<br /> 4174 http://www./journal//4174 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:30:47 -0700 Finally removed the drain tube, solid full of rust and debris, hard as a rock, but cleaned up like new. Only about 1/2" of metal tube to attach it, hope that works! Lots of rust inside the air box, maybe POR-15 needed? Now I need new demister and fascia hoses, the fascia ones are NLA!<br /> 4173 http://www./journal//4173 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 11:49:49 -0700 i have a 61 mga and a 71 gt also 68 gt for parts . am restoring the gt now and need in fo on rockerpanel replace . been driving mgs for 30 yrs good mechanic but not good at body work any sugestions ? thanks . if u need parts let me know also have 73 b parting out. 864 244 0630. i drive my a every week.<br /> 4172 http://www./journal//4172 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 05:38:15 -0700 Jumping ahead, here is what the custom made stainless steel duel exhaust looks like. The duel exhaust was maintained with a 2 in and 2 out true X design MagnaFlow stainless steel muffler. Because the exhaust pipes run under the rear axle, I also had a flange added just in front of the rear axle so I could unbolt the exhaust pipes to remove the rear end.<br /> 4171 http://www./journal//4171 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 05:29:28 -0700 Dual exhausts will be used but I will run them down the drivers side of the fuel tank where the stock exhaust ran. So the rear valance was modified to widen the opening for two pipes. <br /> After cutting the valance, a reinforcing strip of sheet metal was added (see picture).<br /> Some folks move the gas tank to the middle of the body and run the pipes on either side of the tank. I didn't want to mess with all the body modifications necessary to relocate the tank, which also puts the filler tube more to the center of the boot taking up space needed for spare tire, luggage, etc.<br /> 4170 http://www./journal//4170 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:40:23 -0700 We pulled Old Yellar off the road in Oct and pulled the 1800 and trans. Found some more poorly done body work from the PO's accident.<br /> Lots of grunge and black spray undercoat.<br /> Found a wire brush on my angle grinder best to take off everything.<br /> <br /> Next is to remove the motor mounts, clean everything up (I hope) and put on a coat of primrose.<br /> <br /> A few more pictures to add to the story.<br /> 4169 http://www./journal//4169 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:28:28 -0700 Just for the curious, I've tallied the cost so far to paint my car. These figures are not to the penny, but rounded off to the nearest quarter. These do not include sales tax.<br /> <br /> 1 quart bucket Bondo w/ hardener - 7.00<br /> 6 packs 3M sandpaper in 80, 120, 260 grits @ 3.50 per - 21.00<br /> 1 3-pack sanding disks 60 grit - 3.75<br /> 1 tube of seam sealer - 7.00<br /> Body prep total - 38.75<br /> <br /> 8 rattle cans Rustoleum High-Build Primer @ 4.50 - 36.00<br /> 1 rattle can Duplicolor Self-Etching primer - 4.50<br /> Priming total - 40.50<br /> <br /> 8 packs 3M sandpaper in 400, 600, 1000, 2000 grits @ 3.50 per pack - 28.00<br /> 6 Spray cans Rustoleum Burgundy @ 4.25 - 25.50<br /> 2 Quart cans Rustoleum Burgundy - 15.00<br /> 10 pack rollers - 12.00<br /> 1 roller kit with handle and tray - 4.00<br /> 1 gallon mineral spirits - 10.00<br /> 2 bottle McGuiar's Ultimate compound - 17.00<br /> Finishing total - 151.50<br /> <br /> 1 Harbor Freight Sander/Polisher with pol...<br /> 4168 http://www./journal//4168 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:29:24 -0700 On Friday I completed the chrome bumper conversion on my 1978 MGB. It looks great. I have a bit of advice for those of you planning to do this to your rubber bumper as well. <br /> 1. The kit sold on Moss to do this cost $994.95. I spent $186.00 and that included new tail lights which you most likely won't need. Go on eBay, I spent as follows<br /> <br /> Front bumper bar with out over riders - $11.00 (eBay)<br /> Rear bumper - $40.00 (eBay)<br /> Front signal lights - $80.00 (over paid at a swap meet) <br /> Mark I tail lights - $50.00 (on eBay) <br /> sheet metal $5.00 (I bought all the metal for the whole car, floors rockers etc at a scrap metal place for only $40.00!)<br /> <br /> Now this does not include paint, but I was going to paint the whole car any way. This is a very easy conversion to do. Also don't follow Moss's directions ether. If you mount the bumpers the way they say, the car won't take a bump very well at all. I mounted the bumpers like they were from the factory from '6...<br /> 4167 http://www./journal//4167 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 05:17:57 -0700 Everything is centered and in place. The length of the shifter rod was about 1/2" shorter than the original MGB shifter. <br /> The knob is a cheap (but it is leather) universal knob from Pep Boys.<br /> 4166 http://www./journal//4166 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 05:14:13 -0700 The transmission sits just off center so the shifter had to be modified to bring it back to the center of the hole. I could have cut the transmission tunnel but this created another set of issues with the center console. <br /> <br /> The original T5 shifter mechanism was used, the lever was cut off and a 1/2" bolt approximately 6.5" long was bent into an S shape and welded onto it. Wet rags were wrapped around the mechanism to keep the sensitive stuff from melting. (you can see my ugly welds at the bottom of the bolt. The threaded end of the bolt was used to accept the shifter knob.<br /> 4165 http://www./journal//4165 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 05:03:58 -0700 The original transmission cross member from this 1977 MGB was modified to accept the mount on the Borg Warner WC T5 transmission. You can see in the picture that the mount for the transmission stayrod was cut off and welded at an angle to accept the mount for the T5. <br /> <br /> After getting everything mounted up, it was determined that this arrangement was not strong enough. The transmission was putting to much pressure on the back of the cross member, and bending it down. Additional reinforcement plates to box in the cross member had to be welded on to it.<br /> 4164 http://www./journal//4164 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 04:47:15 -0700 An engine steady bar to reduce rotational torque was made using a rear shock link from a CB car. A mount was added to the back of the left side of the engine, and a reinforcing bar made from 1/8" steel stock was welded onto the firewall just below the heater box opening. The shock link mounts to the back of the engine and to the firewall just below the heater box. There is plenty of room for the big nut on the end of the shock link inside of the heater box opening.<br /> 4163 http://www./journal//4163 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 04:41:14 -0700 Based on the MGB V8 books by Rodger Williams, an adapter plate was made out of 1/4" steel, drilled and tapped to accept the original heater control valve.<br /> 4162 http://www./journal//4162 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 12:09:58 -0700 Interior lookin ok, still needs work<br /> 4161 http://www./journal//4161 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 12:08:27 -0700 Lookin good<br /> 4160 http://www./journal//4160 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 11:25:21 -0700 I usually put the MG up for the winter around Halloween, so I added fuel stabilizer and took the B out for a drive today because its so beautiful out. I've put on 2065 miles this season- less than some years, about average I guess. I may get it out once or twice more before the snow flies. I still have something going on with one rear tire because I got a flat while parked in the garage again and we just put in a new tube in that tire two weeks ago. I'm guessing something inside the wheel is cutting the tube. I'm running on the spare now and will dismount the tire from the bad wheel and look for rust or protruding spoke ends. I know there's no rubber band in that wheel, just many wraps of duct tape and maybe that's not enough?<br />