The MG Experience Owner Journals

Busy Work

Fri, 25 May 2012 11:27:27 -0700

Kevin W's Journal --

I haven’t really had the time to dive into the car itself much yet. There is a lot of work there but I have gotten the whole inside clean and it looks pretty nice. I’ve mainly been cleaning and restoring little parts, I found an old wood shift knob in a box of parts and have it sanded, stained and glossed and I plan to custom make the top of it. I also found an old jack in the trunk so I sanded, primed and painted it custom so it will look nice sitting in the trunk. The only real thing I've done to the car is reinstall the shifter, which wasn’t that hard. I hope to get started real soon on my restoration of the car itself.

<MG Jack Restored with some class>

<0525121359a>

Posted 2012-05-25 11:27:27 by Kevin W

Another Go At The Speedo.

Fri, 25 May 2012 06:54:06 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

I really don't want to take this out again. So as I mentioned last time I thought I may be able to sort it while still in the dash.

Reaching around the back again I was able to loosen the two knurled nuts so the gauge came forward about 5mm.
It was a bit of a struggle but the bezel and the glass came off and I undid what I did to the needle the other day. ie. unhooked it from the stop and let the needle go back around.
It wouldn't go back to zero unless I flicked it or pushed it back. Generally it would sit at about 30kph.
Using the two tea spoon trick that someone mentioned, I popped off the needle and moved it around so it was pretty well at zero when it sort of centralised.
Took it for a drive and stopped and started and fiddled about and I think I ended up with it as it was before - sort of accurate but very sluggish and won't go back below about 30kph.
I think I know what the issue is and it's my fault . We have to go back a few years to when I took it apart before. At that time I cleaned off all the old dried grease and rather than not have any lubricant I used what i had and put a little petroleum jelly on the moving parts.
This I think was a big mistake as this is too thick and offers too much resistance to the movement of the needle.
To fix this properly I have to strip it down again, clean that off and use something a lot lighter to lubricate.
But that is for later, when I forget what a bear it is to take out and put back in.
So a bit of fiddling got the glass and the bezel back on and I tightened the nuts back up.

One other thing I want to do is change the knurled nuts for the speedo. They work ok for the tacho but a different design for the speedo would make it easier, especially because of the earth leads which are attached here as well.

Something like this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedoknurlednut.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2012-05-25 06:54:06 by Chris W

Feeling Better

Fri, 25 May 2012 05:00:47 -0700

George Heissenberger's Journal --

My back is getting better - I am able to drive again after resting and being out of commission for a few days. Instead of a ruptured disc again my Doctor thinks its a pinched nerve or sciatica. It sucks getting old! Anyways I'm feeling up to a nice MGB drive this Memorial Day weekend, although probably not in the local Memorial day parade as my wife has done in the past few years. Our MG Club used to participate in the parade with a local Lions club who helped put on our annual car show, but they dropped out and there is no car show this year(sniff). I'm also a volunteer fireman and am usually in several parades, but this year I'll just ride in the truck cab!

<My wife driving OURMG in Victor NY's Memorial parade>

Posted 2012-05-25 05:00:47 by George Heissenberger

Finally, A New Muffler

Thu, 24 May 2012 11:57:57 -0700

Drew Bertola's Journal --

May 24th, 2012 w/ miles @ 26.3 K.

I had some rattling in the exhaust, and it was time to change the 20yr old muffler. With some input from my LBC mechanic, I opted for a Borla Pro XS. The only difficulty is that it needed to go where the resonator normally stays. We just swapped positions of the muffler and resonator, and it fit nicely (btw, the resonator was new last season). Got a nice new tip for the tail pipe, fired it up, and gave a listen to a very sweet and deep purr. Love it!

Posted 2012-05-24 11:57:57 by Drew Bertola

New Grill For Baby

Thu, 24 May 2012 07:13:09 -0700

Gary Brown's Journal --

Before the car show I replaced the grill on Baby. It was damaged a while back when someone pushed my driving lights back into the grill. Damaged the grill and the driving lights. I got the grill from Victoria British. They were the first to get them in stock. Been backordered at almost all dealers in the States. Quality was OK. Badge was the flat style so I replaced it with the more correct raised style. I got the badge from NOS Locators on eBay. The fitment was typical of aftermarket grills. I definately had to work with it awhile. It will have to do until/if I can locate an NOS one.

<001>

<002>

Posted 2012-05-24 07:13:09 by Gary Brown

T.D.C. And Checking Damper

Wed, 23 May 2012 18:25:54 -0700

Dana R's Journal --

I made a simple piston stop tool from barstock to check for true Top Dead Center. This is a quick easy way to verify your damper hasn't "slipped" it's timing mark, and manditory for checking cam timing.

<Piston stop tool>	<Verify timing mark aligns with piston @ TDC>	<Easy time to mark damper @ 32 deg. for ignition timing.>
<Timing mark for full advance check.>

Posted 2012-05-23 18:25:54 by Dana R

BEARING CLEARANCES

Wed, 23 May 2012 17:17:58 -0700

Dana R's Journal --

If you do not have micrometers and dialbore gages to check main and rod bearing clearances, a product named Plastigage by Clevite77 bearing co. can be used with very good accuracy.
First clean the journal and bearing well. Then cut a piece of the material to width of the shell. Without turning crank, install cap and torque to spec.
Carefully remove cap, and compare width of "crushed" plastigage to the marked spaces on outside of package. Should be within range given in MGC engine section of shop manual.
Clean off material with plastic scraper, and lube bearing with assembly lube, and final torque to spec found in manual.
Do this to all main, and rod bearings turning crank after each is installed to spread lube, and insure no binding.
At no time turn crank with plastigage installed!
Obtain a dial gage,(doesn't have to be expensive) and check end play in crankshaft to be sure it's .002 - .003 thousands.
You will need a dial gage to check cam timing later. A good tool to have in the shop. Very useful in setting front wheel bearing clearance.

<Install gage to bearing surface.>	<Checking main bearing.>	<Check all rods.>
<Clean well and lube before final installing>	<Be sure all caps match location, then final torque.>	<Checking crankshaft end float.>

Posted 2012-05-23 17:17:58 by Dana R

ENGINE REBUILD & BLUEPRINT

Wed, 23 May 2012 15:20:10 -0700

Dana R's Journal --

Some of the photos I took during the complete rebuild of my '69 C engine. Specs: Bored +.020, Moss/County 9:1 pistons, New cam bearings, Decked to true up top surface of block. Crank turned .010 / .010, Rods balanced and matched to 2 grams. Flywheel lightened to 28 lbs.
3 sets of lifters were checked for hardness by the machine shop to get a full set that were at least R58c to mate with the reground cam.

<Back from machine shop. Bored .020 over, new cam bearings installed, and scrubbed clean.>	<Weighing Big end of rods on homemade fixture>	<Rod small end weighing>
<Tools needed for piston install>	<Squaring ring in bore to measure gap>	<Measuring gap. Had to file all ring ends to meet recommended gaps.>
<Installing rings>	<Ready to check bearing clearance.>

Posted 2012-05-23 15:20:10 by Dana R

Paint

Wed, 23 May 2012 07:05:54 -0700

Chris R's Journal --

got my paint today...perfect match for my work...nearly there.,just a blow in the exhaust to sort.,get my stereo spot on nd new headlight bulbs

Posted 2012-05-23 07:05:54 by chris R

Local Car Show

Wed, 23 May 2012 06:53:12 -0700

Gary Brown's Journal --

Went to a local car show at Douthat State Park this past weekend. First show I've had Baby out to this year. The Park is a beautiful setting. Baby was the only LBC there, but I had a lot of people come up and tell me about the LBC they had years ago. Fun day. The second picture is Baby down by the lake, it was taken last year but I wanted you to see the lake in the Park.

<Douthat car show 001>

<Country drive 004>

Posted 2012-05-23 06:53:12 by Gary Brown

Result With Tacho - Not So With Speedo.

Wed, 23 May 2012 05:48:12 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Went to Docs and gym this morning and when I came home I was sitting in the car and started thinking about and looking at the two gauges in front of me.

Next thing I know I'm sitting there with the tacho in my hands and thinking 'well that was easy'.

Popped off the bezel and the glass - again easy! Then pondered on how the innards came out. Took it inside and used a kitchen knife to pry out the surround with the rubber in it and could see that only 2 screws where holding the guts in there.

Screwdriver made short work of that and I'm studying the innards. Don't think I'd had this apart before.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0126.jpg[/IMG]

Well the trim pot is very obvious, it's that black thing at the top:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0125.jpg[/IMG]

It looked like it would be easy to hook the innards back up in the car and attempt to adjust with the other gauge as a control. When I first hooked it back up it wouldn't work! Then it dawned on me that it needed an earth. So I found a short lead with an eye on it and attached it to one of the screws that I'd removed to take the innards out. That's the green wire here:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0121.jpg[/IMG]

The engine analyser was attached to the motor and sat just in front of the windscreen:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0122.jpg[/IMG]

Then with a screwdriver while juggling the throttle to get steady revs via the analyser, I was able to adjust the trimpot to match the tachos reading to the analysers:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0124.jpg[/IMG]

Pretty easy actually and I checked it at a few different readings 1000, 2000 and briefly at 4000.

Put the tacho back together carefully and thought about the speedo.

Decided to take it out and have a go at that. Long story short - couldn't remember how it came apart because of the trip meter stalk.
Well, I posed the question on the forum but because of the time difference of most of the members, got no answer. So had a brain snap and wound the needle around and hooked it over the stop again. Bone head move as it turns out because now there way too much tension on the needle and it won't move at all on a test run.
I also had the devil of a time getting it back in - tacho went in reasonably easily. Still a bugger but the speedo is a real turd!

Anyway this evening after a failed test run on speedo (tacho appears to work well) I checked the forum post and did some extensive searches and it appears that the needle and the face of the gauge has to come off. I don't remember having to do that - but I must've.
Anyway that's the plan. I may be able to do it without removing the gauge completely. If I undo what I did today with the needle I may be able to take the needle off, run it with a temporary needle made from a small piece of masking tape and take note of where it is pointing at , say 70kph using the GPS and then come home and work out where the needle needs to go accordingly.

We'll see tomorrow. Stay tuned.

Posted 2012-05-23 05:48:12 by Chris W

April 2011, The Beginning

Tue, 22 May 2012 19:05:37 -0700

John C's Journal --

These are some pictures from one year ago when I finally got around to starting the project.The car was put on stands, the suspension removed, fuel tank removed, interior removed, trunk lid replaced, left front fender removed because the car was in an accident. You can see this in the before pictures. Two completely rust free doors off of another'79 MGB were purchased and are in storage. A lot of other parts and supplies were ordered as well. The doors that are on the car now and the old fender should provide plenty of spare metal for patching purposes. This will be a chrome bumper conversion.

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=4.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=1.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=2.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=3.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=5.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=6.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Unfortunately, this project has been on hold for the last year. But I am preparing go forward with this project in the near future. I just have a few more repairs on the house before I can devote my undivided attention to this project. I feel the car is worth that. When I do start back, I will see it to completion.

<4>

Posted 2012-05-22 19:05:37 by John C

1979 MGB Project Before Pictures

Tue, 22 May 2012 18:42:28 -0700

John C's Journal --

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Rightsideofcar.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Rightsideofcar.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Leftsideofcar.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Leftsideofcar.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=rearofcar.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_rearofcar.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Hood.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Hood.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Interior.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Interior.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Trunkfullofcrap.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Trunkfullofcrap.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=EngineCompartment.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_EngineCompartment.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=AccidentOutside.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_AccidentOutside.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=AccidentInside.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_AccidentInside.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Badrustonleftreardogleg.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Badrustonleftreardogleg.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Trunklid.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Trunklid.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Leftdoorcrackofdoom.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Leftdoorcrackofdoom.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=Leftfenderjoint.jpg][IMG]http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k506/TimeforPicz/1979%20MGB%20Project%20Pictures/th_Leftfenderjoint.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

<Right side of car>

Posted 2012-05-22 18:42:28 by John C

Goodbye Lucas

Tue, 22 May 2012 13:53:32 -0700

Norm Nolde's Journal --

Last Friday I completed installing the relay assemblies from Bits4Brits (Fuse box and headlight/horns). The horns now work like they should. The wiring doesn't look very neat, but I'll neaten it up when I redo the engine compartment this winter. Today I tested the "Ignition" light on the dash and found that it worked as advertised. Made the ground from the plug on the alternator to the engine block, and the light came on. It hasn't worked since I bought the car in January. Seems like the diode in the Lucas alternator isn't doing it's job. Also, today I ordered an alternator kit from MGCCars to replace the Lucas alternator that isn't working. Now I'll have 105 amps of power, bright headlights, loud horns, and I can drive in the dark. The current alternator craps out when the headlights, marker lights, dash lights, and radio are on. This weekend I'll be installing the new alternator. Slowly but surely, Lucas is leaving the car.

Posted 2012-05-22 13:53:32 by Norm Nolde

Gee It Seems Like I've Been Working On My Wife's '77 B Forever

Tue, 22 May 2012 13:05:57 -0700

Bud Osbourne's Journal --

Pulled off of the BGT restoration "for just a month or two" to put a '77 B together for my wife to drive. This was in march of 2011, I think. Well, you know how it goes when you get started on the >might as wells". Yeah, that's right. I've spent a TON of money on this '77 and a whole lot of time and I'm still a few weeks away from "roll out".

The car was a semi-basket case, but pretty much complete, with a very solid (but not totally) body and ORIGINAL paint...........Sand-Glo.....I'm still trying to get used to it.

Anyway, today I dropped the (original) wire wheels off at the powder coater's, ordered the rim bands, ordered the new tires and a replacement driver's side vent window assembly.
Tonight, I'll start to assemble the engine, so that it can go into the car next week. Nothing fancy. Just a good, stock rebuild of another 18V engine. Did have to go to .030" over to clean up the cylinder walls, but the crank is std./std. and like new. I have a good, original cam, new lifters and a fully rebuilt head to go on it. Naturally, it will have twin SUs (probably HIFs), a rebuilt distributor and will work through an overdrive gearbox.
Completely new interior, including restored instruments and a new top. The paint & body work will definitely have some "patina" showing, but my main concern is to provide my wife with a good, solid, reliable "driver". Oh, yeah. Almost forgot. Complete new wiring harness (orignial was exhibiting major evidence of DPO tampering), completely rebuilt suspension (bushings, king pins, shocks....the works) and probably a lot of other stuff I've forgotten about.

So, I'm ALMOST to the point where I can get back to work on my long-suffering GT (actually, it's ME that's been suffering because of not having that GT to drive all these years :(.

Posted 2012-05-22 13:05:57 by Bud Osbourne

I Love My Midget

Tue, 22 May 2012 10:20:50 -0700

Mark Rollinson's Journal --

I have a long memory of my Midget. My father bought the Midget in 1964. The used car lot in Cleveland listed the car as a 1963. Years later it was determined the car was actually a 1962 model. Dad and I drove the car sparingly for a couple of years. But Dad quickly determined the Midget was not exactly the best touring car for us. He wanted to travel to national parks and the MG had modest luggage space. Plus it has the highway comfort of riding down a flight of stairs in a filing cabinet. In 1966 dad bought a brand new, untitled TR4 (the dealer claimed the car was lost in inventory). The MG was presumably sold to a private owner to make room in the garage for the Triumph. We were wrong to think that. Years passed and Dad and I drove many miles in the TR4 coast to coast. Later, after college, I bought a used TR6. One weekend my dad called to ask me to return for a visit to repair a troublesome water heater at the house. I was surprised to enter the garage to see the Midget sitting there. For 15 years my dad had kept the MG out of view in a friend's barn. He would visit it occasionally to start it up and drive it. But he wanted to keep it for me. The MG is the first car I drove. I was only 14 when Dad bought it. I still have all three cars in my garage and drive them when I can.

Posted 2012-05-22 10:20:50 by Mark Rollinson

Map Pocket

Mon, 21 May 2012 18:10:46 -0700

Paul Mansell's Journal --

So here we were about to go on Gary's Run for the first time and I got to thinking about where to put maps and guidebooks etc. I did not want to spend the dollars for the available side ones that go in the foot wells so scratched my head and came up with this idea.

I went and bought an acrylic wall mounted file folder from the local office supply store, under $15 and was going to mount it in the foot well but decided that it would be in the way for getting in and out for both the driver side and passenger side.

I was going to take it back but realised that as I was in the B when I picked it up I had just stashed it behind the drivers seat and found that it held stuff neatly and it was easy to reach around and drop things in or pick things out.

AH HA!!!!

so I took some vinyl material that was very close to the colour of the interior panels and glued this to the outside and then used some lengths of chrome car door edge trim to dres the top. This was then just screwed to panel behind the seat and it works just great.

Voila some place to hold those maps etc.

<ready to install>

<in and working>

Posted 2012-05-21 18:10:46 by Paul Mansell

Continuation Of Front Member Rumble

Mon, 21 May 2012 13:25:28 -0700

Stuart Sinclair's Journal --

Last week i tighend up the four bolts attaching the cross member,problem not solved,then i jacked up the front to discover that the n/s front wheel bearing to be loose and adjusted it very early on sunday morning before the run,There is still a slight judder but it's not right, So you now what i will be doing in the morning providing that the Weather is good.

<2012 009>

<DFSK truk>

Posted 2012-05-21 13:25:28 by stuart sinclair

Finished With The Parts Car.

Mon, 21 May 2012 09:49:20 -0700

Joseph Tiller's Journal --

The parts car was a great experience for me. It was 2006 when I sold my 78 B that I’ve had any “hands on” activity, so this was good practice. The only thing that was a real fight getting off was the gas tank, and it’s probably for naught because once I got it off I could see that it’s probably toast, with rust being all over the top of the tank. Time will tell, but I won’t be surprised when I find it’s full of holes. I was able to get a good bit off the car, like the doors, both fenders and the entire front clip. But I also gleaned all the gutter trim pieces, B post trim piece, rear tailgate window trim and the trim piece at the bottom of the rear quarter panel windows. All the glass was good and the windshield was a bonus; the one on my car is scratched and fogging. This one was in great shape, so there’s the cost of a new windshield saved already!

Then I got to use my new angle grinder! WOW this thing is great!!! With a metal cutting disc on it sliced right through the metal and I had a great time cutting up bad pieces just for fun. I was also able to cut some parts out that were usable and get them to a couple of members who needed them for their own projects.

I said before that when I took this car to the recyclers there wouldn’t be any usable pieces left on it. I believe I came pretty close to keeping that promise I made myself. I had to trailer the car home, but only needed to load up what was left in the bed of my truck when I was finished. Check out the pictures to see what I ended up carting away.

And the day after New Years, tragedy! I took the near perfect windshield off the car and had placed it against the side of the house. A wind storm came and apparently picked the windshield up and slammed it on the ground! The impact cracked and ruined it. Easy come, easy go but man that hurt.

<1 windshield.......toast.>

<Picked clean!>

Posted 2012-05-21 09:49:20 by Joseph Tiller

Getting Fussy Now!

Mon, 21 May 2012 04:00:50 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

I've put up with a dogey speedo since I put it back on the road but now that the OD is functioning well the cars ability at speed is now an issue.
As well as that it's become obvious that the Tacho is grossly overstating the rpms of the motor. I'd always struggled to get it to idle at a suitable speed by the tacho and now it seems that the tacho was giving me the wrong readings.

I have an engine analyser that does dwell, amps, volts and rpms that I've had for ages - I made mention of it when I checked the action of the OD solenoid.
I'd always thought that is was giving me bad readings and for some reason I had trusted the cars Tacho over it.

When I mentioned in a post on the forum the different rpms with and without OD in 4th. Several members questioned the readings and I went back and hooked up the meter and if I assume the meter is reasonably accurate then the tacho is way out.

At 2k on the meter the tacho reads over 3k and at 4k on the meter the tacho is redlining. No way it's revving that fast!

So the tacho has to come out and I've got a few links to data on how to rehab and adjust it.
While I'm there I'll do the speedo as well. When I pulled the speedo apart before I don't think I put enough preload on the needle and it's slow to return to zero - in fact it doesn't go back lower than about 30 kph.
It's pretty accurate after that on the way up but is very slow to return on the way back. I think I can fix that.
I don't really need it to be that accurate, I just need it to give a good sweep from zero up and back again.
The numbers are an overlay that I did and that can be adjusted to suit what I end up with.

That is the next plan. I'm just not looking forward to delving up into the scarey recesses of the 'dark side of the dash'.

Posted 2012-05-21 04:00:50 by Chris W

Slogging Away Parting Out '64 MGB

Sun, 20 May 2012 16:23:44 -0700

Mark M's Journal --

Keeping the cool stuff...selling the rest.

<'64 engine bay>

Posted 2012-05-20 16:23:44 by Mark M

Car OK- Me Not So Much

Sun, 20 May 2012 14:30:42 -0700

George Heissenberger's Journal --

After working on the car yesterday I must have done something with my back bending over. Back and leg pain all last night. Its one problem with being older- things you used to be able to do all the time you maybe can't so much anymore! Anyway my son stopped over and finished working on his Dart so he could take it home. I just sat on the porch like an old timer!

<1974 Dodge Dart>

Posted 2012-05-20 14:30:42 by George Heissenberger

Finished With The Paint Jobb.

Sun, 20 May 2012 13:55:06 -0700

Are ATR's Journal --

Now my mgb is truely nice and shiny. Fantastic paint jobb eirik. Let the summer come.

Posted 2012-05-20 13:55:06 by are ATR

Gearbox Cleaning

Sun, 20 May 2012 05:39:57 -0700

Greg's Journal --

Decided to clean all the gunk out of my gearbox today. x years of grease, oil leaks and disintegrated carbon bearing took a long time to shift.

A combination of scraping, degreaser, powerwasher and scotchbrite pad helped it a bit./

Now i dont dread taking it apart to replace the seals and gaskets quite so much as i wont get completely covered in grease when i do.

<Before>

<After>

Posted 2012-05-20 05:39:57 by Greg W

Update

Sun, 20 May 2012 05:36:11 -0700

Greg's Journal --

Well its been a long time since ive updated things on here, and ive done a few bits n pieces in the ineterim!

Ive basically taken the car apart - including engine and gearbox.

The engine is at a machine shop at the moment - ive measured things up but im waiting to see what they think it needs to see if im in any way right or wrong.

Im cutting away the lh sill rot at the moment - doesnt look so bad so i think i will get away with patching it (and maybe a new outer sill front just to make sure i keep everything lined up).

Thankfully, the inside of the sills is ok along the length of the car, so i may just have caught them on time (now to research rust proofing!).

The picture shows the current (sorry looking) state of the car!

<car stripped>

Posted 2012-05-20 05:36:11 by Greg W

Problem? What Problem?

Sat, 19 May 2012 17:53:47 -0700

George Heissenberger's Journal --

I have been driving the B all around town as the weather has turned nice. I drove the MG to work Thursday and she ran great. I have about a 40 mile commute round trip. I filled the car with 100% gasoline on the way home, at a station our club has been advertising in the newsletter. About 5 miles from home the MG started to backfire, and in particular there is a big hill not far from my house and I really thought I would not make it. But she did OK at part throttle, as long as I didn't get over 3000 RPM in 4th gear. I suspected bad gas. After changing the fuel filter and swapping the coil, with no change, determined the Pertronix is good, and the plugs cap and rotor are all about a year old and also good. I checked the mixture using the lift pins and the front carb stumbled and fell off on lifting the pin so I suspected lean mixture. After turning the mixture on the front carb a 1/2 to 3/4 turn richer the car runs great again. I think maybe the E 10 fuel I had been using burns a little bit different than the 100% gas so the car acted up a bit.

<After adjusting the HIF's.>

Posted 2012-05-19 17:53:47 by George Heissenberger

MGB Restoration - Shop Lift Pictures

Sat, 19 May 2012 15:23:59 -0700

Jeffrey Louis's Journal --

With the car up on the lift this morning, I had the opportunity to add some pictures that show the progress made on the exterior of the car.

With all the bumpers and exterior trim, my MG is beginning to look like a car again after being in many pieces for almost 3 years.

<2012-05-19 11-19-25 23>	<2012-05-19 11-20-31 76>	<2012-05-19 11-18-55 863>
<2012-05-19 11-19-10 348>

Posted 2012-05-19 15:23:59 by Jeffrey Louis

MGB Restoration - Stainless Steel Exhaust

Sat, 19 May 2012 15:10:06 -0700

Jeffrey Louis's Journal --

The MGB originally came from the factory with a California Emissions package. It had all of the California necessary equipment such as a smog pump, catalytic converter etc. As part of the engine rebuild and restoration, I removed all of the smog equipment, upgraded the engine to a bigger cam shaft and converted the carb system to a dual SU carb set up.

I originally was going to replace the exhaust system with a OE type steel exhaust I bought from England. With the upgraded manifold and dual carbs, I decided to go with a Falcon Stainless Steel Exhaust system with a larger flow diameter and only one box instead of the the two boxes from the factory. The catalytic converter was removed and will not be replaced since Ohio does not require emission testing for classic cars over 25 years old.

Included are pictures from the recent exhaust installation.

<2012-05-19 10-49-34 199>	<2012-05-19 10-54-17 123>	<2012-05-19 10-57-58 5>
<2012-05-19 11-28-47 733>

Posted 2012-05-19 15:10:06 by Jeffrey Louis

MGB Restoration - Additional Chassis Pictures

Sat, 19 May 2012 14:51:39 -0700

Jeffrey Louis's Journal --

With the MGB up on the lift today, I had the opportunity to take some additional pictures of the under carriage of my MGB.

The chassis was refreshed in all new black paint back in January 2012. The pictures highlight some of the work that went into rebuilding the mechanicals after the body and paint restoration.

The MG has a new stainless steel exhaust system, new rebuilt front end with springs and new rebuilt rear suspension with new leaf springs. Another restoration parts include a new gas tank and engine and transmission mounting brackets.

<2012-05-19 10-56-34 391>	<2012-05-19 11-10-49 170>	<2012-05-19 11-01-09 324>
<2012-05-19 11-28-47 733>

Posted 2012-05-19 14:51:39 by Jeffrey Louis

MGB Restoration - Overdrive Assembly

Sat, 19 May 2012 14:24:55 -0700

Jeffrey Louis's Journal --

My 1976 B is optioned with a factory installed Overdrive. As part of the restoration process, the overdrive assemble was removed, cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled.

Attached are a few pictures of the freshly installed factory overdrive viewed with the freshly painted under chassis.

<2012-05-19 10-57-33 334>	<2012-05-19 10-58-27 947>	<2012-05-19 10-59-21 197>
<2012-05-19 11-05-35 910>

Posted 2012-05-19 14:24:55 by Jeffrey Louis

MGB Restoration - Exterior Trim

Sat, 19 May 2012 14:15:44 -0700

Jeffrey Louis's Journal --

The completion of reinstalling the exterior trim is almost complete. The rear portion of the car is complete with the final parts being installed. The license plate bracket and side lights were installed along with the historical plate.

All of the front trim is already installed and all that is remaining is to install the chrome side strips on the fenders and doors. This will be one of the last steps of the restoration along with the installation of the top.

<License Plate Frame & Lights>	<Door Handles & Locks>	<Side View>
<Bumper>

Posted 2012-05-19 14:15:44 by Jeffrey Louis

Miss B Has Got To Go...

Sat, 19 May 2012 10:20:26 -0700

Sarah Hamerly's Journal --

I need to sell my '76 MGB. If anyone is interested, please contact me at asmussens80@gmail.com See my profile for a picture.

Posted 2012-05-19 10:20:26 by Sarah Hamerly

BEE Is Very Happy Today

Sat, 19 May 2012 09:26:59 -0700

Chris R's Journal --

UPDATE::::
I changed the points...gapped .35 mm
changed capacitor
distributor cap
ht leads
checked advance timing by ear..
RUNNING SWEET AS A NUT
idle perfect
no hesitation
flying around country backroads this afternoon...great positive result

Posted 2012-05-19 09:26:59 by chris R

First Car Show Of The Year

Sat, 19 May 2012 08:33:29 -0700

Tad Gropp's Journal --

Finishing the new waxing for the Armed Forces Lilac Festival car show in Spokane WA today! I had my 18 year old daughter help me for the first time with the prep. Makes it all worth while when you can pass down the feeling of a good British sports car down to your kid. Feelin pretty fortunate and happy today!

Posted 2012-05-19 08:33:29 by Tad Gropp

Re-fit

Fri, 18 May 2012 18:12:20 -0700

Rick Bosak's Journal --

Time to refit all the body parts before final sand down. Most of these parts have not seen each other for quite a while. In fact this fender has never been on this car before and needed a little pounding to fit just right. Notice there are no turn signal holes. I'll be putting LED strips inside the headlights (hotrodder style)

The steering column has to be in so we can make sure the header will clear it. I'm also trying to decide what to do with the valence vent cut outs, usually the license plate would cover them, I'm hoping I can go without a front plate, have to check on that, but then do I put some sort of grill in them?

<all back together>

<steering column>

Posted 2012-05-18 18:12:20 by Rick Bosak

Rear Window Louvers

Fri, 18 May 2012 05:39:38 -0700

Gary Brown's Journal --

Bought a set of rear window louvers from Dave Kalb (mgbtf). These were aftermarket items you could get for GT's back in the day. I think they will look great on the '67 GT. Will definately help with cooling in the rear and also slow down the fading of the rear carpet.

<GTlouver>

Posted 2012-05-18 05:39:38 by Gary Brown

Miis Fire

Thu, 17 May 2012 15:36:13 -0700

Chris R's Journal --

car running like a dog...let me down today badly...not happy
i suspect ignition problem...maybe disributor cap
was a low point
put re-condtioned grill on...car looks great

Posted 2012-05-17 15:36:13 by chris R

Some Running Around And A New Speedo Cable.

Thu, 17 May 2012 03:38:59 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Having finished off the clutch re-visit, I've been enjoying the exploration of the OD. After the initial shake-down mentioned in the previous entry I was keen to give it a good decent run.
So after checking on eBay and finding nothing, I gave Heritage motors a ring to enquire about a OD speedo cable.
After some discussion on the phone it was established that they had one there and they would send it up to me.
"Hang on, I might take a ride down and get it." Ok, they will leave it on the counter waiting for me. If I change my mind give them a ring and we'll send it out.

Ok. Sounds like a plan. A good freeway run. Never taken the MGB that far into the city before.
So I set off. Top of the hill, just before the expressway, I stopped to fill up and I was a little worried 'cause it wasn't running real good - nothing major - just didn't feel right. So I filled it with unleaded without ethanol. Normally I just run on E10.
Pulled over to check the tyres as well and popped the bonnet just to look at everything. Absentmindedly I reached in to check the plug leads.

Hang on! This plug's loose! WTF they're ALL loose.
Then it dawned on me. I'd taken the plugs out to turn the motor over for some reason that escapes me now and I remember just putting them back just to fill up the hole and thinking I'll tighten them later.
Well, I never did. What a bone-head! That could have been nasty.

Anyway I had a old plug spanner with me so I was able to pull them out, check them and tighten them back in. What a dingbat!

Any way after that it ran a lot better and I went down to Smithfield and back without a hitch.

Next day I put the cable it and all is well. The speedo is still not reading correctly but it is the same as it was before.

I'll have another go at sorting that out another day. It doesn't go all the way to zero. I believe that when I pulled it down a few years ago I didn't put enough tension on the spring inside.
I think it would be a simple matter to pull it down again and change that.

Posted 2012-05-17 03:38:59 by Chris W

Matching Numbers

Wed, 16 May 2012 04:10:33 -0700

MGB GT 1967 Restoration --

According to the Heritage Certificate it's all matching numbers.

<VIN #>

<Engine #>

Posted 2012-05-16 04:10:33 by Robin M

Before And During The Disassembly

Wed, 16 May 2012 04:10:21 -0700

MGB GT 1967 Restoration --

In a very clean garage (not so clean anymore) the GT was rolled in. When working on it, accompanied by its younger B cousin.

<Welcome in the empty workshop>

<Crowded workshop>

Posted 2012-05-16 04:10:21 by Robin M

Disassembly Continued

Wed, 16 May 2012 02:33:28 -0700

MGB GT 1967 Restoration --

Engine is removed, replacement goldseal purchased complete with OD and tranny.

Few weeks later, bought an original complete 3 sync tranny with OD. So maybe goldseal will not be used...

<Empty bay>

<Ready for revision>

Posted 2012-05-16 02:33:28 by Robin M

GPS Speedo And Tach

Tue, 15 May 2012 20:31:07 -0700

Paul Mansell's Journal --

I have been having issues with my speedo over the last 3 years and despite replacing and rebuilding everything I was down to the fact the gear in the gearbox must be stripped. Well as I am going to convert to a V6 in the fall it just is not worth the time or effort to do anything about it.

So I thought lets go with the GPS speedo from Speedhut, that way it does not matter what I do to the car the speedo will report the correct speed.

Nobody seems to have put one in a 73 as the hole is not big enough and I even read that they will not fit, (read that after I ordered the speedo mind you) Any way I measured up and I felt that the 3 3/8th speedo size would work with a bit of work to enlarge the hole.

Well I decided yes lets go for it and I went ahead and ordered both the speedo and matching Tach (again the new engine will mean I will need it anyway) and I spent the extra dollars to have MGB stenciled on the gauges.

Only took me maybe a hour total to remove the old gauge, enlarge the hole and install the GPS speedo. Works really well and it sure looks good, will look forward to getting the Tach in and ordereing matching fuel and temo gauges as well.

I really like the look and it works just great, several display settings can be used, such as clock, trip, direction etc, I have the clock showing as it is nice to have a clock so I know the time as well.

Looking forward to getting all the other gauges in for sure.

<Speedo installed>

<MGB symbol used on the gauge>

Posted 2012-05-15 20:31:07 by Paul Mansell

It's Alive

Tue, 15 May 2012 16:41:52 -0700

Dia T's Journal --

I brought Margaret out of an extended nap (6 years?). First thing she did was lock up her rear wheel real good. Husband says he will jerk it into moving by pulling her forward with a truck. I'm not very much in favor of that.

Margaret is up in the air. I lubed what I could reach. The front end is on ramps, and the rear end is on a pair of jacks. For now, I cannot reach
one nipple on the front right wheel area.

I have never ventured into The world of automotives except for Shining chrome wheels, polishing, waxing... Cosmetics, so I am very very slow at whatever I do.
I started out with what I knew; I shined all the chrome pieces. margaret sustained left rear damage while in the previous owner's possession.

My first order from Moss was for lenses, light gaskets, radiator gaskets, a few bulbs and screws.

I tried my hand at fibreglas'ing the large hole which resulted when I removed rust from the rear right dog leg. I was able to clean up the inside wall as well, which left me with a small surface left inside for me to start the first layer.

Yesterday was a crying day. Very often I break things and forget things (because of a T.B.I. I sustained a few years ago). I was able to break off a grease nipple under its lower head, and I did the same to the breather cap over the rear right axel. I also spilled a large take-home container all over the kitchen counter...

Posted 2012-05-15 16:41:52 by Dia T

Spare Front End Apart - Then Picking Up '65 MGB Parts Car

Tue, 15 May 2012 14:52:48 -0700

Mark M's Journal --

Work slowed after carpal tunnel surgery and dad here for a visit.
Spare front end did get torn down with my son's help. That in itself is a learning experience!

Need to pick up '65 MGB pull handle from the local boneyard this Saturday.
It has lots of cool parts left on it. Then I'll have 3 front ends to sort through and hopefully make one good one. I'm hoping for a couple of good kingpin sets that only need re-bushed. Other than that, all the moving parts will be new becasue I want it that way.

Posted 2012-05-15 14:52:48 by Mark M

Things We Have Done To The Car

Mon, 14 May 2012 17:45:00 -0700

Kimberly Chapman's Journal --

Just a list of the things we have replaced on our 63 B. Front and Rear springs. Rear shocks. Interior kit. Seat covers, Vinyl. Passenger Seat Frame. Turn signal covers. Headlights. Motor mounts. Wing window frames. Door, Frame, Windshield, and Hood seals. Window furflex. Twin voice coil speaker. Windshield washer kit. Hood sound deadening lining. Sound reduction in both doors.

Posted 2012-05-14 17:45:00 by Kimberly Chapman

Mgb V8 Conversion

Mon, 14 May 2012 11:46:25 -0700

Stephen Burke's Journal --

still looking for a mgr v8 STEEL front hood for my 75 conversion.i know there are plenty of fiberglass hoods out there but i would like STEEL.thanks p.s. my 68 mgc roadster is coming along nicely

Posted 2012-05-14 11:46:25 by stephen burke

Great When A Plan Comes Together!

Mon, 14 May 2012 00:07:05 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Started this morning and checked that the bolts would go in beside the U joints. Yes! Easy-ish!

So to drill the holes to couple it together.
I was anticipating this to be more difficult than it was so I've gone a bit overboard with the photos. So because I took them you have to look at them!

I thought that I was in for a long fiddly process of measuring and drilling the holes 'cause I wanted to sure they were accurate. Well hit on a short cut using an old valve stem that happened to be the exact size - 5/16". So holding it in a cordless power drill and resting against my bench grinder, I was able to accurately grind it to a point to act as a centre punch as shown in the series of pics below.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0098.jpg[/IMG]
Close up of ground tip.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0099.jpg[/IMG]
How it was set up to use.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0101.jpg[/IMG]
The resulting punch mark. Probably more accurate than I could measure, mark out and then punch.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0102.jpg[/IMG]
Then a 1/8" pilot hole. Allowed the the centre punch mark to do the precise alignment of the drill, holding it loosely so it can move to the exact place then holding it tightly. Only works with small drills.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0103.jpg[/IMG]
Then using the drill bit to position, I clamped it in position for the next two drills - 19/64" and then 5/16" without moving the setup.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0104.jpg[/IMG]
And the 5/16".
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0105.jpg[/IMG]

Using a short bolt to locate, the opposite one is marked and drilled the same way.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0106.jpg[/IMG]
Using 2 bolts to positively locate, the other two positions are marked.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0107.jpg[/IMG]
And the second one.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0108.jpg[/IMG]

The two remaining punch marks are shown here.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0109.jpg[/IMG]

After drilling I used a hand drill to slightly countersink the holes front and back.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0110.jpg[/IMG]

And here's the finished piece from both sides.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0111.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0112.jpg[/IMG]

Well I was ready to go! Well, no! In practice the holes were just a little snug so I ended up taking them out to 21/64" and they went together quite easily under the car.

The only other thing I had to do was deal with a missing screw retaining the speedo input. I couldn't find the screw. I don't remember taking it out so I'm thinking it wasn't there in the first place. I just wanted something to make sure the spindle wasn't going to fall out. So I found a bolt that fit 5/16" UNC apparently and ground a little spigot on the end and put it in with a bit of locktite. When I get my new speedo cable I'll sort it out properly.

Well that's it - so it's time for a test drive.

Again long story short - YES YES YES! :) Smooth clutch AND functioning OD. :)

:) :) :) :) :) :)

Works great on the way up. Haven't mastered it on the way down. Remember I haven't got the vacuum switch. So in the meantime I'm clutching on the way down.

It's another good MGB day. Can't wait 'till I can give it a good test drive.

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

Posted 2012-05-14 00:07:05 by Chris W

My First EBay Purchase Is A Winner!!!!

Sun, 13 May 2012 20:47:22 -0700

William D's Journal --

While spending time (to avoid winter dulldrums) on EBay looking for a "project" truck, it didn't take me long to find out that "project" truck meant BIG $$$$$ and BIG time committment!!! I came across some very interesting vehicles, but the one that got most of my attention was a 1964 Red MGB, completely restored by a retired principal in Kansas..Kansas, I said to myself, how the heck would I get a car to WV from Kansas???? But, much to my surprise, my wife hit the "easy" button, and next thing I knew, I was the winner of my first mid-life crisis convertible, purchased sight unseen!!! You know, it didn't take much work on my part to get the car delivered via private transport! OMG I thought, for sure I had bought a lemon, especially since it quit running as soon as I backed it off the transport truck..a splash of gas fixed that..and so it goes..we're still getting to know each other and I was very proud of her when I took my elderly mother out for her very first convertible ride on Mother's Day 2012!!! Like two kids, smiling ear to ear, but wouldn't you know, we didn't see one person that recognized us! Maybe next jaunt!!!

Posted 2012-05-13 20:47:22 by William D

Skyline Drive - May 2012

Sun, 13 May 2012 19:57:44 -0700

Mark Williams's Journal --

Great trip this weekend to Monticello, Jefferson's home in southern Virginia

<Skyline Drive>

Posted 2012-05-13 19:57:44 by Mark Williams

New Dash Cover And Found Turn Signal Problem

Sun, 13 May 2012 17:15:29 -0700

Buckeye Mike's Journal --

I bought a cover for my dash. I like the look but I probably will have to take it off to trim it up or attempt to do it in place. I thought I would be able to clamp the dash in place and it would stay in put. The cover is a hard plastic with a vinyl cover on top. I found out the glue will not hold and change the shape of the plastic. As a result I should have trimmed it around the glove box. It rubs there but I'm happy with the rest.

My last two things to sort at were electrical. The main thing was the turn signal. I had no right hand turn signal all last year. I went to the back first and noticed the torpedo quick disconnect was loose, but that wasn't it. I went to the front and discovered that one front wires was cleanly cut in two.

I believe the problem occurred the winter of 2011. I didn't have a journal entry about it but I installed 3 relays; 2 for my headlights, and 1 for my horns. It was a great improvement on both. I believe when I was up front installing the relays I must have cut the wire.

I never changed the horns last year but I lost the high note about half way through last summer. I took it off, blew it out, but was never able to get it working. I went ahead and ordered a new pair because I fiddled with the low note last year and got it working, but I figured it will eventually go out.

Posted 2012-05-13 17:15:29 by Mike Madden

The Driveshaft Adapter.

Sun, 13 May 2012 17:06:47 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Did this on Friday - haven't had a chance to write it up 'till now.

Annoyed at myself for not taking more photos, especially of the block I started with.
Made more frustrating because the times I thought of taking pics I didn't have my camera with me, I'd completely forgotten about my new phone which has a decent camera in it and this was in my pocket the whole time! In fact the 3 pics I have I took with it. They're not great but certainly acceptable.

Well, continuing on, I needed a slug of steel about 86 x 30 and when I went to the steel merchants in the morning - I had to wait for them to open at 7.30am - the closest they thought they had was 90mm dia. Perfect! However, in reality they couldn't find that size in the yard so I went with 100mm dia x40mm. Just a 'bit' more turning. Cost me $15. Sort of a min charge, he reckons he actually gave me a 47% discount. Yeah right!

Still, not too bad.

Went to school to check that I was able to use the lathe and then went to the gym then home to do some 'housework'.
Went back in and spent a couple of hours and came up with this.
This is the side that the shaft attaches to:
I set this up in a 4 jaw independent chuck with the jaws reversed. The recess is a lot deeper than required but I did that so I'd have plenty to grip on the outside of the 3 jaw chuck jaws. (the reverse jaws of the 3 jaw had been lost many years ago.)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/2012-05-11185103.jpg[/IMG]

This is the side which goes to the box. I would have liked to have bored the centre right out but I didn't have time and I couldn't find a boring bar. Same with the large groove around the centre. It's a bit heavy.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/2012-05-11185055.jpg[/IMG]

This shot shows the spare flange on the adapter. The ring around the outside about 5mm up is simply a machining mark where i'd changed the angle of the tool. It's only visible and you can't feel it.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/2012-05-11185138.jpg[/IMG]

After this I took it to my bolts supplier to see about the studs before I drilled for those. Well, long story short, no studs available without special order or me modifying bolts. So I got 4 long bolts and I'll check if I can get them in the drive shaft flange before I simply drill the adapter 5/16".
I suppose that's the easiest and quickest anyway.

Stay tuned for that.

Posted 2012-05-13 17:06:47 by Chris W

Stripping The Interior

Sun, 13 May 2012 13:53:04 -0700

Amba Siketi's Journal --

Once I worked out how to remove the seats the rest has been quite easy, a really messy job though, the last owner must have had a dog as there was hair everywhere, the carpets where mouldy and disintegrated when I touched them. Once they where removed and the side panels came off, I was really surprised what good condition she was in.

Next job getting out the Dashboard

<IMAG0175>

<IMAG0180>

Posted 2012-05-13 13:53:04 by amba siketi

Engine

Sun, 13 May 2012 13:47:21 -0700

Amba Siketi's Journal --

Engine runs but as with most of the car it is in a real sorry state, this will need a lot of TLC, something I will need some help with I feel

<IMAG0166>

<IMAG0168>

Posted 2012-05-13 13:47:21 by amba siketi

Interior

Sun, 13 May 2012 13:44:01 -0700

Amba Siketi's Journal --

The interior is a real mess, the first thing to go are the horrible seat covers, unfortunately they where hiding broken seats. Will need to look at buying new ones or fixing them myself.

<Interior>

<IMAG0165>

Posted 2012-05-13 13:44:01 by amba siketi

My First MG Project

Sun, 13 May 2012 13:40:41 -0700

Amba Siketi's Journal --

I have wanted an MG since I was 12 years old, I went to a car museum fell in love and bought an MG Keyring to go on my MG when I got one.

25 years later and my dream has come true, she is in a sorry state but I plan to get my hands dirty and try and restore her to her former glory.

I have never done anything like this before in my life and I am scared to death

<My first MG>

Posted 2012-05-13 13:40:41 by amba siketi

My First MG Project

Sun, 13 May 2012 13:40:32 -0700

<My first MG>

Posted 2012-05-13 13:40:32 by amba siketi

Spring 2012

Sun, 13 May 2012 09:37:03 -0700

Drew Bertola's Journal --

Took the car over to my local LBC shop to get the carb / choke worked on. The choke seems to have a contaminant in one of the ports, possibly the needle's o-ring had come off and was blocking a duct. Whatever the case, smog is due and I can't get it dialed in myself.

After a new EGR valve, rotor and cap, plugs, wires, fuel filter, dashpot metering needle, float, and other carb parts, catalytic converter (relocated beneath and removable), and a manual choke swap, it is driveable again. It runs pretty well, but still doesn't behave quite right at startup and while warming up.

What next? That's the question.

Posted 2012-05-13 09:37:03 by Drew Bertola

Ok Still Waiting

Sun, 13 May 2012 08:19:25 -0700

Timothy Lee's Journal --

Hello, this is the little green machine, I purchased this MGB for my wife's 50 th birthday present. I drove it for a couple short trips in which I noticed several issues. (3/2012). For the entire month of April in the shop, rebuilt carbs, replaced mirrors, new gas cap, and a run through everything else. May 2012, brakes.. So we have yet to enjoy this little wonder. Plus summer vacation will keep us away for June and July. So we might get to enjoy late summer fall in this MGB.

Posted 2012-05-13 08:19:25 by timothy lee

Dash Harness Main Harness

Sat, 12 May 2012 13:18:16 -0700

Stephen B.'s Journal --

I hope someone here can help me. I am looking for someone to replace my dash and main harness as I am unable to do it. Does anyone know of a shop or person along the Southern Gulf Coast, such as New Orleans, LA, Gulfport-Biloxi, or Jackson, MS, Mobile, AL, that can get this done? Any information would be more than appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve Butler

Posted 2012-05-12 13:18:16 by stephen b.

Friday Night At Starbucks Fayetteville, GA

Fri, 11 May 2012 19:42:53 -0700

Norm Nolde's Journal --

With my wife in the passenger seat, drove the B to dinner in Fayetteville, GA. Great night for driving with the top down. After dinner went to Starbucks for some mocha. While we were there I met Matthew Coop a fellow MG owner. He just got his 66 roadster out of storage after 21 years. He's got it running. Told him about this site. While we were talking about LBCs, another owner came up and told us about the gathering of British cars at Barry College in North Georgia, and the national meeting in Dillard, GA. Great night.

Posted 2012-05-11 19:42:53 by Norm Nolde

Steering Column Installation

Fri, 11 May 2012 15:42:31 -0700

Wilbur Engelsma's Journal --

The steering column I'm installing is from an 86 Nissan Maxima. It has all the controls in the column (lights, wipers, hazard, ignition, cruise control) and no air bag, so I can replace the existing steering wheel with something more comfortable. The plastic fairing around the column also fits into the notch in the MG dash, so that is a plus. The first problem (of many I assume) is the mounting points don't match the MG, so i am modifying the MG bracket to hold the column in the correct location. I'm almost there, but need a few more tweeks to line up the end of the column with the hole in the firewall.

<86 Maxima column>	<P5110031>	<mounted with dash installed>
<column/dash fit>

Posted 2012-05-11 15:42:31 by Wilbur Engelsma

Still Ffff...reezing!!!

Fri, 11 May 2012 05:14:08 -0700

Roland Gotzke's Journal --

It's closer to summer, and the temps hover around the ffffreezing mark. Amazingly enough, the MG's seem to know that summer is nigh and liven up after a bit of coaxing. It sure is nice to be able to drive the cars once again. The initial shake downs are proving that the restorative work done to date, are making these 2 cars reliable rides. They both feel and run like new... Yeah!!! it's been worth the effort and expense. Lots of smiles per mile.

<IMG 1197>

<DSCF5483>

Posted 2012-05-11 05:14:08 by Roland Gotzke

Mozzies Chased Me Off So Next Day.

Thu, 10 May 2012 05:30:37 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Mosquitos have been horrendous lately here at any time of day. So thick I had to give it away yesterday.

This morning I went mad with the Aeroguard and managed to replace the fuel filter and start it up again and run it for a few minutes. Smoked like crazy - oil on the exhaust I suppose. Anyway that seemed to disperse the mozzies and I was able to install the switch and the relay.

I used a existing screw to mount the relay and I managed to fit the switch between the fuel gauge and the vacuum gauge. PO had an ammeter where the OD switch blanking hole was and I replaced it with the vacuum gauge.

I felt that the switch should go somewhere there so that's where it went. See pics:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0086.jpg[/IMG]

The relay just went where it is because that was where the screw was and it was close to where the wires came up from the gearbox. The two green wires that don't go anywhere are the reversing lights switch.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0085.jpg[/IMG]

I made up some short connectors to go from bullet connectors to spade connectors because I didn't want to cut the harness wires. Did that so it can go to standard if I desire. This, however, makes it look a bit messy.

Finished off the inside and put the bonnet back on. That means it's all done except for the driveshaft spacer and I spent some time drawing it up and thinking about how I want to do that. Decided to go with double set of studs so I only have nilock nuts to worry about. Long bolts I don't think would go in.
Here's the drawing of that which I've yet to make.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/Tailsshaftspacer.jpg[/IMG]

Well that's about it. I ran it again and tested the OD solenoid and tried to hear whether it changed when the OD was activated in 3rd and 4th.
Solenoid clicked in and out loud and clear and I think that I could hear the output speed change but I can't be sure. I'll have to wait till it's on the road to be absolutely sure.

If I had the speedo cable I could tell from that.

Posted 2012-05-10 05:30:37 by Chris W

Being In All Respects Ready.........

Wed, 09 May 2012 07:17:06 -0700

Trevor Whitehouse's Journal --

With the crazy warm weather we had around here in March, the car rolled out of its winter lair on March 18th with only a couple of minor projects to be addressed before the driving season of 2012 officially began.

I finally completed a project that I started some two years ago, abandoned and then restarted. That was to grind down an original set of SU carb throat plates so that they would fit inside the conical K&N filter housings. The plates couldn't be set between the carbs and the filter housings due to a lack of space between the rear carb mouth and the brake booster. So they had to be put inside the filter housing and that required some reshaping to allow the filter medium to mate with the filter back plate and avoid friction wear between the filter medium and the throat plates while still keeping the shaping effect of the throats. Done - with all of the bottom outside ring of the throat plate ground away and the holding bolts replaced by countersunk cap screws.

I also addressed crankcase ventilation as my previous arrangement had been looked at somewhat askance by Mr. MG - John Twist - at Reno. I had the tappet cover breather connected through a Datsun PCV into the manifold. The SU's that I have are an older version that doesn't have a port for crankcase vacuum. So, I plumbed the breather hose through a y-connector and into the back of each of the carb filter housings. There's probably only a wisp of any vacuum there - more likely just slight negative pressure - but any crankcase vapours are being "burnt" rather than vented to atmosphere. So far, so good no signs of any oil or dirty vapour staining the inside of the carb.

My other project after all of my OD and drive shaft concerns from the Reno trip last year for MG2011 was to replace the drive shaft with a new part. The old shaft had suspect out-of-round u-joint mounting holes in the flanges and I had blown a bearing cap forcing a replacement set of joints into place. So the new British Heritage part - made in India by the way - complete with grease nippled u-joints went into place. I would have liked to replace the connecting bolts between the transmission tail shaft and the drive shaft but it apppears that you can't get the uniquely-headed bolts out without removing the tail shaft to get some clearance. And - the supplied nuts with the new shaft are standard, not nylok, with lock-washers.

But with those jobs done and the regular minor tuning, the car has been back on the road now for some 400 sweet-running miles. This Friday, a group of five cars from our club - me included, are off on an around-the-lower-lakes tour of some 1800 miles through Buffalo, Cleveland, Detroit and Orillia. Fingers are crossed for some sunny days.

And in a fit of vanity, I got one of the Australian Overdrive badges to mount on the back of the car. In OZ, they were mounted between the boot octagon and the boot lock but there is a big web inside the boot lid at that location that was going to cause me nothing but trouble in getting the badge cleanly mounted and secured. So I opted for putting it on the left side body between the reverse light and the licence plate and it does look like it belongs there.

<Carb Throats & Crankcase Vent>

Posted 2012-05-09 07:17:06 by Trevor Whitehouse

Lump Back In And Functioning Again.

Tue, 08 May 2012 20:28:47 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

This is the morning after. It was too late yesterday (well earlier this morning, actually) to be bothered writing this up but I did put an entry on the forum [url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2061212,2061824#msg-2061824]click here[/url].

Started at about 9 am and immediately got side tracked with the side tappet covers.
I was pretty sure one of mine leaked so while the motor was out I thought I'd have a go at it. It was the front one and of course it leaked, the gasket was not thick enough to stick above the flange - even when new. I compared the old gasket with the piece that had come from the centre of the gasket when new and it had not compressed very much, if at all. It was always going to leak.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0073.jpg[/IMG]

You can see here that it doesn't fill the recess.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0074.jpg[/IMG]

So I covered everything and went off to try to by some thicker cork stock. Long story, short, no joy there so I used some thinner stuff I had and added it to the original gasket with lots of gasket goop. The back one is a different design and it was sealing well. I had to take it off to establish that but it went back on with a fresh coating of goop as well. If they leak now ...........!

Ok didn't actually get to the motor/g.box install 'till about 1 pm or something like that. Cleared the garage and lined up the car with the chain block.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0072.jpg[/IMG]

Moved the unit into position and hooked up the cable to it and the chain block while still on the stand.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0075.jpg[/IMG]

Lifted it up a little, unhooked the stand, lifted it clear of the guards, spun it around and pulled the car under it while letting it down gently. The chain block is very precise and it take no effort to raise or lower it just a little. I had almost everything left on the motor so it was a bit of a tight squeeze but with the trolley jack underneath to alter the angle as I went down and in, it finally was resting on the front engine mounts.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0077.jpg[/IMG]

A little jiggling while gently lifting and lowering and I was able to get the bolts for the mounts in.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0078.jpg[/IMG]

Next the infamous crossmember. It was then I realised that these weren't where I wanted them to be.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0079.jpg[/IMG]

Not such a big deal but I wanted to minimise the time I had to spend under the car.

Well, I managed to get them on without much drama. I actually found it easier to do it completely by feel with my eyes shut.
The crossmember was next and I installed the stay rod to it on the bench to try to make it easier and I'd already done the modification to the crossmember so by moving the supporting trolley jack away from the stay loop I installed the crossmember to the gearbox and then, using the jack to raise the whole lot proceeded to install the crossmember bolts. Wow, this was not going well until I realised that the OD gearbox uses different screw holes and these had not been used ever. After struggling with the bolts and actually getting all four in but unable to tighten, the penny dropped and one by one I took them out and ran a tap up the holes.
What a difference! No photos of the cross member unfortunately.

Anyway, I had to stop there as Sharon and David came home and were expecting dinner.

After dinner I went back out to clean up but ended up continuing and got everything else hooked up and gave it a test run.

Well one little hiccup. I must have damaged the metal fan on the front of the generator and it screamed like a banshee till I bent it back into shape. Took me a while to work out what the god awful noise was and there was a 'small' amount of panic when I started it up.

And I've got a fuel leak at the filter. Haven't looked at it in detail but I may have split the filter, plastic, generic just before the carbs.

However, all is well (ish).

The tailshaft is not connected yet but I engaged all the gears and the box is nice and quite. Not definitive yet but a good sign. Took me about an hour and a half to clean up and pack everything away.

It was just on 1 am when I'd finished and by the time I'd cleaned up and had a shower I didn't get to bed until about 2 am.

This morning I took these 2 pics:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0080.jpg[/IMG]

Still some work to do on the inside:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0081.jpg[/IMG]

It's 1.30 pm the next day and I've been to the Gym and I picked up a new fuel filter, a bit of fuel line, a generic switch and a simple relay. I'll fiddle about with those bits this afternoon - maybe! :)

Posted 2012-05-08 20:28:47 by Chris W

Help! Enjoying The B, But There Are Some Issues.

Mon, 07 May 2012 12:16:16 -0700

Adam Lambert's Journal --

This week end I started driving the B for the first time in about 4 years! We had a couple of false starts and we fixed the last major one this weekend by replacing the gas tank, the fuel lines and rebuilding the weber DGV carb. It was a great time finally being able to drive all around and enjoy the car. However there are a few issues. The main one being it's lack of performance. This is my first old car, before this I have owned a 1986 Buick Regal, a 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada, a 2000 Chevy S 10 and a 1995 Jeep Cherokee. All of them had 6 cylinders except the S 10. I didn't expect it to be fast but it's actually quit sluggish and it won't go over 40 with out a little bit of shuddering or maybe you'd call it pulsing? IDK. Any ideas how to fix this? I know MGB's have been known to do almost the ton, but mine won't really do much over 50.
When I rebuilt the carb I blew out all the passages with compressed air and replaced all of the gaskets and whatever else comes in the DGV rebuild kit that Moss sells. I set the float level to what it should be and adjusted the idle to about 900 RPM. I did notice that one of the Auxiliary venturis was a tiny bit loose. Would this cause the extreme lack of performance?
Also, before doing all of this I have done the following to the car mechanically: New Gas tank, and fuel lines, new cam, lifters, timing chain, timing sprockets, new distributor, new coil, new head gasket, new valves (which I lapped in) new valve springs, new water pump, and a 160 degree thermostat, new brakes all around, new wheel cylinders in the back, new brake disks in the front, new parking brake cable and I rebuilt the master cylinder. I will also note that the engine in out of a 1978. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted 2012-05-07 12:16:16 by Adam Lambert

New Tires For GT

Mon, 07 May 2012 08:38:48 -0700

Gary Brown's Journal --

Finally got down today and put new tires on the wheels I got from Joemamma. Think they look pretty good. Got 185-65-14's. Probably should have went with 70 series like on the roadster but we'll see how these do.

<new tires 1>

<new tires 2>

Posted 2012-05-07 08:38:48 by Gary Brown

At Last! Ready To Put The 'lump' Back.

Mon, 07 May 2012 01:16:36 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Last 2 day have been 'fiddle about' days.
The wiring up and a few decisions to make about what to do about some issues have taken much longer than I had anticipated.

The new harness came with the reverse and OD harness and I'd packed it away a few years ago. Got it out and wired it up. The 3rd, 4th lockout switch had been replaced with a screw terminal version and rather than cut off the clips on the harness I modified some spade terminals and screwed them in and clipped the harness to them.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0063.jpg[/IMG]

Attached the harness to the side of the gearbox with a combination of cable ties and a 'P' clip. I drilled and tapped an unused spigot in the side of the gearbox. A bit DPO but the result is neat. Also drilled a couple of 3mm holes into casting webs to use cable ties. (Very DPO)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0064.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0065.jpg[/IMG]

Then it was time to address the adjustment of the OD solenoid. The manual was a bit sketchy in this area but it became clearer when I actually put power to the solenoid. It pulled in a lot further than I thought it would and it was clearer what the manual was describing.

I've covered the control arm up but it is clearly depicted in the manual. A 3/16" hole is in the brass control lever and it matches a hole in the casting behind it. At rest these two should line up. Well the at rest position is debatable and as the plunger can flop around all over the place when no power is flowing I determined close enough was good enough and went about adjusting the arm at the fully engaged position. Logic and the manual and the Moss video mentioned in a previous entry made it clear that the solenoid drew a lot of current when it was being activated but at the end of it's stroke it only needed a small current - less than 2amps to hold it there. A switching mechanism was built into the solenoid at the end of its pull stroke to drop the current from about 15 to 20 amps down to 2amps.
I just had to make sure that the plunger got to this position at the same time as moving the lever to almost it's full movement.
I needed to be able to measure up to 20 amps. Hmm, both my multimeters only go to about 500 Milli amps. I was almost at the point of giving up when I remembered the PO had an ammeter in the dash when I bought the car and started to search for where I'd put that when another light bulb moment and I remembered my old engine analyser that had been given to me maaany years ago but my college mates on my 21st. I sure it had a method of measuring alternator output so it must go into that kind of range. Well I dug it out and found that it did by using a shunt.
Used my jump start battery (almost flat) and hooked it up and got the 2 readings that I required - albeit a bit low because the jump starter was almost flat but there was enough to show a reading of about 10amps and then dropping to about 2amps.
High amp reading: (should be about 20 amps it's not because the battery was almost flat)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0069.jpg[/IMG]
Low amp reading: (Really just a deflection of the needle)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0070.jpg[/IMG]

I fiddled about to make sure I was stiil getting full movement on the arm when engaged and it was still a bit slack when disengaged. And I was done.

Used some locktite on the cover plug I got the other day and attached the cover,
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0066.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0067b.jpg[/IMG]

All done ready to go!

There was some discussion about the use of the vacuum switch and relay on the forum. I've decided not to use these at this time. I'll just put the link to the discussion by way of explanation.

[url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2059404,2059404#msg-2059404]Link to forum discussion here![/url]

Maybe the lump will go back in tomorrow. :)

Posted 2012-05-07 01:16:36 by Chris W

5th May 2012

Sun, 06 May 2012 15:13:05 -0700

Chris R's Journal --

wipers finally fixed ...bought a new wheel box...they are working perfectly..more sanding and priming.
but a disaster
the A post has rot between the hinges...I punched the back of a socket rench right through it...this is a big setback..will have to get a 6 inch squared section welded in ....filled it for now so i wont have to look at it.
I cant wait to finish painting so i can put my re-furbished grill on.

Posted 2012-05-06 15:13:05 by chris R

Front Assembly Installed

Sun, 06 May 2012 15:11:29 -0700

Wilbur Engelsma's Journal --

The moment of truth- I installed the front end under the car, and it looks like everything fits like it was meant to. Woo hoo! The oil pan has about 1/2" of clearance between the bottom and the cross member. The pulleys on the front clear the steering rack nicely. The power steering connection fits between the oil pan and frame, and there is a gap between engine and frame to run the steering linkage (under the turbo, then up to the firewall). It's like I planned it, but it's always nice when the execution actually matches the plan.
Next step: install the steering column and linkage.

<front view>	<front clearance>	<oil pan clearance- left side>
<oil pan clearance- right side>

Posted 2012-05-06 15:11:29 by Wilbur Engelsma

Front Suspension Assembly

Sun, 06 May 2012 14:51:49 -0700

Wilbur Engelsma's Journal --

I completed the front suspension assembly and installed it under the car this weekend. I had a completed assembly that I just moved all the parts from the old cross member to the new one. The only wrinkle is the bolts that hold the member to the frame have to be installed prior to installing the suspension- or the hole the bold installs through is covered up.
The power steering hose connections are easily accessable, and nothing seems to be binding, so this should be good to go!

<completed assembly- rear view>	<completed assembly- front view>	<power steering clearance>
<power steering clearance>

Posted 2012-05-06 14:51:49 by Wilbur Engelsma

Modifying The Cross Member, Part 3

Sun, 06 May 2012 14:41:07 -0700

Wilbur Engelsma's Journal --

I finally finished the cross member:
- welded on the steering rack mounts
- trimmed off the excess material
- trimmed the ends to install the coil over suspension
- painted the finished product

<completed cross member>

<steering rack mount>

<ends trimmed for coil overs>

Posted 2012-05-06 14:41:07 by Wilbur Engelsma

Take The Car For A Spinn To Torghatten With A Friend

Sun, 06 May 2012 12:40:01 -0700

Are ATR's Journal --

Cold but nice trip to torghatten

Posted 2012-05-06 12:40:01 by are ATR

BACK IN THR GARAGE

Sat, 05 May 2012 13:51:01 -0700

Dennis P's Journal --

GOT 200.3 MILES ON THE MOTOR WHEN A FREEZE PLUG BLEW? back to BRITISH AUTO CENTER . WELL,IT'S GOING IN AGAIN MONDAY .I FEEL LIKE E OR! .

Posted 2012-05-05 13:51:01 by dennis pierce

Another Busy And Productive Day.

Sat, 05 May 2012 07:50:08 -0700

Chris Williams' Journal --

Got a fair bit done today and tomorrow I may be able to get the lump back in the car.

I took off the front cover of the gearbox and replaced the seal. The old one wasn't leaking and it looked ok but I had the new one anyway so...
Was very careful to make sure I had it sealed well. Plenty of gasket goop.

Then after a few pics of the innards I cleaned up the side plate and with a new gasket and plenty of goop sealed it up as well.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0053.jpg[/IMG]

3.6 Litres of engine oil and I was ready to attempt a test of the OD hydraulics. Using my corded hand drill and after scouring to find some suitable hose clamps and a piece of hose, we eventually came up with this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0056.jpg[/IMG]

It's a bit (OK a lot) rough but it functioned. Spinning the box in 4th and tweeking the lever by hand we were able to establish reasonably confidently that the hydraulics and the mechanism of the OD function. An audible and visual change in the speed of the output shaft was quite evident.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0057.jpg[/IMG]

The solenoid is new so as long as it functions and I set it up correctly, I feel sure I will be able to get this to function.

After a bit of drama I eventually removed the old spigot bearing. Tried the grease in the hole and a close fitting plunger and driving it out to no avail. Then used a length of 10mm threaded rod with a large nut on the end fed through and hooked over end of the bearing and pulled it out using a heavy length of steel with a hole in it as a slide hammer up against another nut on the other end. Took a while but it came out relatively easily. Cleaned everything out and using the old spigot drove the new one in flush with the front end of the hole. No photos of this procedure unfortunately.

After putting the new spigot bearing in and attaching the clutch using the spare 1st motion shaft as an alignment tool an old guy and a scrawny lad couldn't for the life of us get the two together.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0060.jpg[/IMG]

So a different approach was required.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0061.jpg[/IMG]

Dropped straight in - no fuss!

And so this is where we are up to tonight.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0062b.jpg[/IMG]

Stay tuned for tomorrows episode.

Posted 2012-05-05 07:50:08 by Chris W