These are a few pics of the interior of MidGe. The seats are later replacements and the carpet is a recent update but everything else is pretty much original.

Midge has been repainted with two coats of Rustoleum Safety Red using the roll and tip method after a thorugh wet sand. Quite a difference I think

Midge has been repainted with two coats of Rustoleum Safety Red using the roll and tip method after a thorugh wet sand. Quite a difference I think

MGB Repairs and Changes to date


Body and other sheet metal

First things were the forward half of the floor pans. They were judged too thin to patch, so a complete half-floor, in effect, was fitted at each side, from the crossmember to the toeboard, in 18 gauge galvanised sheet. At the same time the petrol tank was replaced, fabricated to the same shape as the original but in 16 gauge galvanised, complete with internal baffles (to stop the petrol sloshing around) and a much better-designed carrier frame than the MG original fitted. The tank was slathered with M.O.D. sourced anti-corrosion paint, then covered with a thin rubber membrane, then painted again, then generously Waxoyled. At this time also the main crossmember was extensively repaired at each side, again with 16 gauge galvanised sheet.
A couple of years later the floors were really beyond rescue, so they were completely removed and new ones (in, I'm afraid, rather thin and pretty basic-quality steel) were seam-welded in. However, as soon as these were in they were Waxoyled, including the space between the new 'pans and the previous repair panels. The previous panels were left in place (a) because they provided extra strength and bracing; (b) because they'd been so well put in that they'd have been a real bar steward to take out.
All these jobs were carried out by George Clayton who worked for Narvida at the time - not a car welder; but a real artisan when it came to cutting, shaping and welding; I "laboured" for him on all these jobs (i.e. kept a close eye on the proceedings).

In 1979 the rear offside wing was crumpled by a hit-and-run teenager (a whole 'nother story) and replaced by Kay's; not terribly well, I'm afraid. I think that must have been one of Tony's less-reliable periods; but that accounts for the poor boot shut line in the lower right corner.

That was it until about 1984 - 85, when the outer sills started to show up weakened by corrosion. They could have been covered over; but... I took a deep breath and got the whole lot done. The front wings were cut off from the trim line down, the (newish) rear off wing just enough to expose the sill and the rear nearside one, again, from the trim line - there were stock outer panels for all these. Then the outer sills, the vertical central divider and the castle section (under the inner sill) were removed and replaced, and all the new outer panels fitted. The following year (I think) the boot floor sides and rear outer wheel arches were looking a bit ragged; so again the complete panels were cut out and replaced. At different times, the front and rear valances were replaced - the front one is bolt-on, so that was easy; the rear one was done at the same time as the boot floor.

Besides odd small patches from time to time (i.e. up to maybe two by two inches), that's about it in terms of raw metalwork. Twice since 1978 (especially after the sills were done) I got in there with the Waxoyl and made sure it got everywhere, especially in any enclosed section. First time I used about three gallons, I think; the second time, which was really a top-up, I only used about half that. I just hope the steam cleaning at Southampton doesn't strip it all off the underside and wheelarches.

The interior, as you saw, has been largely retrimmed. I got a brand-new windscreen and frame in 1985 or thereabouts, and fitted it along with a rechromed centre brace (insert here a lament for the old Dockyard and all the specialist services MOD didn't know it was providing - their chrome plating really was excellent). The door trim panels, and a few others, were made up in plywood treated with rotproofing stuff - the old cardboard ones were really past reclaiming. The interior door and winder handles were replaced with the right ones (according to illustrations of very early models - same as the old 1100, Mini etc. There's a whole boxful of spares. I also replaced the steering wheel - unique to the early B, I think - and gear lever. Re. the steering wheel, the remaining non-original feature is that the horn still operates on what should be the headlamp flash - pull up on the indicator stalk (which is also now the original pattern - the indicator telltales are in the dash again). The gear lever is now further back than it used to be - overdrive box - and I couldn't lay hands on the proper gearbox cover, so if you lift the tunnel carpet you'll see the rather clumsy bridging piece we resorted to. The shoulder rails I re-covered myself - not a bad job, apart from the too-smooth vinyl fabric. The advent of smaller batteries made it possible to shift the battery from the boot back into one of the underfloor cages and so free up space in the (uncarpeted) boot, so a new main battery lead went in at the same time.


Mechanical

The present engine went in about five years ago - rebored, reground etc. - from a 1966 car. Yet another story. Early heating problems were resolved by a new (or at any rate recored) radiator. Camshaft, cam followers and timing chain are also new from then. The original engine you know about. (Incidentally, among all the spares you'll find a small bronze bush, about an inch long and same diameter - do not lose, because this is the bush for the gearbox input shaft. If you ever use it, soak in engine oil for at least 24 hours beforehand.) The overdrive gearbox (why didn't I do this twenty years earlier?) went in at the same time; the straight switch for this is right for the car's age. It operates on third and top only; third overdrive about matches direct top, so it can save a bit of gearchanging in town traffic. Top overdrive cuts revs by about five hundred - more relaxing, and less fuel consumption. Note, however, that the overdrive propshaft is shorter than the standard one - counterintuitive, you might say; but if you ever have to get the universals overhauled, don't go for an exchange unless you're sure the new one is a direct match.
To improve the gas flow, I fitted a stainless exhaust manifold. The exhaust system is also stainless; the previous one lasted about twenty years and wasn't really shot when I replaced it - it's just that I got the chance of a new one at a very good price (the buyer didn't like the noise it made and took it off again).

Suspension and stuff

It's on its second set of new front springs and brake discs, and its third set (I think) of rear springs, so it shouldn't sag there for a while yet. At the first disc change I also renewed the front calliper pistons (the old, chromed ones had bad surface rust and were sticking). I bought one new one and Keith had stainless steel copies turned up in the Dockyard; so they shouldn't cause problems ever again. The front kingpins have also been replaced, as have all the shock absorbers. If you're ever replacing the front suspension bushes specify the MGB V8 type - one-piece, and steel-sleeved instead of two-piece and rubber only; they're not only stiffer but more durable. At various times, the brake and clutch master cylinders and the clutch slave have all been replaced.
NOTE WELL: the brake and clutch systems both now operate on silicon fluid, not standard stuff. Forget that, and you'll have to flush the system and replace all the rubbers. The fluids don't mix; and either one destroys the rubbers if the other fluid is installed.
The reason for the change is that the silicon stuff doesn't absorb water like the standard fluid, and doesn't compress so easily either, so you get a stiffer pedal and no buildup of gunk and corrosion - especially in the brakes.

Another mod I wish I'd done years earlier is the anti-roll bars - standard on the later cars, and really improved the cornering. The wheels are original MG equipment, but 5J instead of the previous 41/2J, which again (with slightly wider tyres) improved the grip and handling.

Once upon a time - I bought a second hand MGB roadster. Actually, it was in 1969 and it was seven years old. Recently (2007) I was back in Scotland (my homeland) and stayed with the guy I sold it to in 1978. He said he rarely ran it and was thinking of selling it! Needless to say it is, today, at the beginning of a journey to Big Stone Gap in SW Virginia to be reunited with me. It was manufactured in October 1962 and is in fairly original condition. My friend has looked after it well and we both thought there was something very apt about it ending up back with me again.

Now isn't that a real fairy story?

It will arrive in Charleston SC on November 26th and I sincerely hope I've understood what I have to take with me when I go to collect her there. I've downloaded the two forms the customs people need and I'll be taking the UK registration document and the bill of sale showing that I am now the owner. If anyone has any words of advice about this I'd be most grateful to read them!