Chris Williams' Journal - The U Joint.

sweep Chris W
Chris W Gold Member aus   Top Contributor
Gosford NSW, Australia

Total Posts: 172 Latest Post: 2012-05-25 06:54:06
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The U Joint.

Chris W Gold Member aus — Posted on The MG Experience
Saturday June 2, 2007 8:06 AM
Following on from previous entry; the uni. joint was particularly grotty, oil,grease, grit etc.
Washed it in petrol and came clean, but was pretty sure I'd washed the grease out and the grot in.
Decided to disassemble, clean and regrease.
I really struggled with the first cup and roller set and I was thinking 'what am I doing this for?'
So I left it a couple of days 'till the weekend.
Gathered everything I might need, re-read the manual and took it down to my workshop.
Well, it almost fell apart it was so easy. The couple of days sitting must have loosened up everything.

As I pulled each cup one out there seemed to be one which was light on in rollers compared to the rest.
After I'd cleaned every thing and POR15'ed the U's and the spider, I counted the rollers and I've got enough for 23 in each cup.
I'm sure I counted 25 in the first one I pulled out.
I posted the question on the forum - 'How many rollers?' but didn't get a response in the time I wanted to wait, so after the paint had dried,I put it back together tonight.

I put it together with 23 in each, well I tried to, at least. The last one wouldn't go in easily and I used a 'L'FH and forced it in but it was binding, so took that one apart again and found that 2 rollers had fallen over and I'd broken them when I forced it -Damn!
Took out the bits, swapped one roller from the other side and slipped it back together again.
So the tally is 23 in 2 and 22 in the other 2.
Feels OK and I'm happy.
I've also taked a couple of pics of the steering column.
With a bit of luck, I'll get the draft excluder on Wednesday and I'll be able to assemble the steering completely.
Next, the wiring harness and anything else I can think of behind the dash and then I'm attacking the dash.
I've decided to do the dash in body colour.


U part cleaned and POR15 ed

'U' part cleaned and POR15'ed

2 of the 4 Cup rollers Collars and circlip sets

2 of the 4, Cup, rollers, Collars and circlip sets.

Half assembled joint

Half assembled joint

Fully assembled joint

Fully assembled joint

Steering column The end with the nut

Steering column - The end with the 'nut'.

Steering column the business end

Steering column - the business end.




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Comments on "Journal Entry: The U Joint." –

Comment by dave preston at 2007-06-03 06:36:18
T have also deceide to not refinish my dash with the "wrinkle finish", seems like too much fuss.I think i'll try a loe luster black. ihave already primed and sanded and will paint today.
Comment by dave preston at 2007-06-03 06:37:08
T have also deceide to not refinish my dash with the "wrinkle finish", seems like too much fuss.I think i'll try a loe luster black. ihave already primed and sanded and will paint today.

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Brakes, Steering And Other Bits

Chris W Gold Member aus — Posted on The MG Experience
Wednesday May 30, 2007 7:49 AM
Haven't written here for a while, so this is a bit of catch up for those who are following my progress.
Attacked the pedal box few days ago, disassembled, cleaned and black POR15'ed it. Bushes were OK so little servicing required.
The flat mounting surface, however was a different story. I had made mention earlier that this was o bit rusty and needed some work. Well I forgot to do that before painting and I didn't want to start welding in that area again.
It turned out to be only the captive nuts for the pedal box cover were rusted so I got some 3/16" flat and riveted it to the underside of the flat body area to stiffen it up. It's tucked up under the foot well, out of sight so not a big deal. I'll drill and tap for the cover mounting screws, later.
The pedal box covers the rivets so you can't see them from the top.
Cleaned, POR15'ed and new rubbers in the brake M/C. Connected it to the pedal box with the two pedals.
David helped me fill and bleed the brake lines. I think I may need to do them again, but we now have brakes.
I cleaned and POR15'ed the under dash air vents as well.
The steering column looked OK and I considered just cleaning it up, painting and reassembly. Curiosity got the better of me and I pulled it down too. Surprised by how crude it was, oil soaked felt bushes top and bottom. Soaked the felt in an oil and graphite mix and reassembled it. Feels tight and turns smoothly.
Waiting to get a new draft excluder before I can reassemble.
Fiddled about with the horn button to get it working a little better.
Started to disassemble the U Joint and am finding it difficult. I may just take enough apart to be able to flush it clean then grease the needle bearings and reassemble it.
Cleaned and repaired the battery cable and the starter cable today. Used a fair bit of heat shrink to cover some parts that had burnt through and also tidied up the ends with heat shrink also.


Pedal box before cleaning and painting

Pedal box before cleaning and painting

Pedal box after cleaning and painting

Pedal box after cleaning and painting

Completed M C cleaned and grey POR15 ed new rubb

Completed M/C, cleaned and grey POR15'ed, new rubbers.

Air vents after cleaning and grey POR15

Air vents after cleaning and grey POR15.

Spare wheel and cleaned and POR15 ed holdown

Spare wheel and cleaned and POR15'ed 'holdown'

We have brakes

We have brakes!




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Brake Line And Some Other Stuff.

Chris W Gold Member aus — Posted on The MG Experience
Wednesday May 16, 2007 12:03 AM
After having cleaned and assembled the two front brake lines, I was disappointed to find that these two lines had rusted.
I posed the question on the forum and came to the conclusion that cleaning and using a clearcoat was the way to go.
I did that today with those lines and a few other bits today and I'll see how they go.
Took some photos and also took some photos of the 'new' front wheels.
I'm happy with the cleaning up of pieces and clearcoating them. They don't look 'brand new' but they look old and as though they've been looked after.
I'm more comfortable with that, given that I want to drive this thing regularly.


Engine bay with some stuff installed

Engine bay with some stuff installed.

Brake line at wheel bit fuzzy

Brake line at wheel - (bit fuzzy)

Brake line at other wheel bit fuzzy

Brake line at other wheel - (bit fuzzy)

Wheel refurbished on the car

Wheel refurbished, on the car.

Other wheel refurbished on the car

Other wheel refurbished, on the car.




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Gone Off POR15 For Brake Lines

Chris W Gold Member aus — Posted on The MG Experience
Friday May 11, 2007 4:04 AM
After having POR15'd the lines on the diff carrier, I was happy with the result. The recent POR15'ing of the main brake line was less than satisfactory.
During the preparation of the line I noticed that the lines looked pretty good after they'd been cleaned up with an abrasive paper.
I tried to use just WD40 on the lines with some finer abrasive foam sheet.
Worked out pretty good and that's what I've decided to do, cleaning the grime off and wiping clean with a clean rag.
Line look so much better too.



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Moved On From Paint - For Now.

Chris W Gold Member aus — Posted on The MG Experience
Sunday May 6, 2007 1:58 AM
Took Peter's AC back to him the other day, so it's on to digging out the bits, cleaning them up and putting them back on.
Started with the main brake line. Cleaned it with some thinners, degreaser and scrubbed it with a foam backed abrasive.
Applied Metal Ready and wiped it with POR tinners.
After it was dry I gave it a coat of silver POR15. It's drying right now.



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Silver Wheels

Chris W Gold Member aus — Posted on The MG Experience
Wednesday May 2, 2007 6:58 AM
After a bit of fiddling with Peters' compressor - (it had a leak in the hose reel connection which was fixed with a couple of new O rings) - I made a 'Lazy susan' from an old wheel bearing and some pieces of thick ply and used it to spray the wheels.
I used about half a litre of paint and the Lazy susan made it easy. I should be able to use this for painting other smaller items.
I expected the enamel to take longer to dry but it seemed to dry fairly quickly. One thing I've noticed with the spray gun compared to using spray cans is, that it's much harder to get runs using the gun and I can get much more paint on the surface much quicker. I don't think I'll buy another spray can again!
I wanted to get Peters' AC back to him so I gave the engine bay another full coat of red as well as the dash shroud.


Wheel silver enamel paint

Wheel silver enamel paint.

Two wheels from the front

Two wheels from the front

4 Painted wheels drying

4 Painted wheels drying

5th Wheel on the lazy susan after painting

5th Wheel on the lazy susan after painting




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