MG Experience Forums

>:D< Color of Wheel Wells, from Factor? >:D< Black or color of car? >:D< (3 replies)

danthefitman — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:50:59 -0700

>:D< What color are the inner wheel wells of cars? Same color as car exterior? or, >:D< a combination of lightly painted car-color and black? >:D<

Thanks in advance and thumbs up to everyone! >:D<

WTB: 70-80 oil filter adapter... [Sevierville, TN, USA] (no replies)

jrhickmn — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:04:20 -0700

...with good threads to replace the one i have with shredded threads. says "tecalamit" or some such on it. makes the filter stick up. will offer free oil filter in exchange but be warned, it has mis-manufactured threads that eats filter adapters.

GT Cabin Insulation Progress (2 replies)

forestghost07 — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:55:54 -0700

... w/dashboard in place; my knees are reminding me tonite how much "fun" we're having LOL 8-)

The worst is over - scraping up the rugs that were industrial-strength glued to the bare floors (idiots :X ) Floors got thoroughly cleaned & Rustoleum painted (metallic blue)

I'm actually enjoying working with this Low-E closed cell heat insulation; it molds to curves nicely, stays put, cuts & tapes easily. I managed to cover the tunnel and both floors with just 3 big pieces, extra bits up under the dash, doubled up on the firewall, barely any spray glue needed so far. 40 sq ft (10'x4') is just enough to cover to and over the rear shelf (seat); $35 from an Ebay vendor.

We'll see how this does in the Florida heat soon (and the Dillard voyage) ... I had the windows tinted, filled about 100 little holes & open seams in the firewall, installed & insulated those $$ ABS underdash panels, and got Moss' exhaust heat shield; all I can do short of A/C.

Do you Use your IPad as I Do? (1 reply)

MG Cruiser — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:30:55 -0700

Hi All, It took some time to get up to speed with the technology but I am getting there.
I found that I can take a screen photo on my IPad. I now use the forum topics,hints,library etc. while I am working on my B's.
I take the screen photo and can be under a car with a fully lit IPad screen to help me on my way. Just a tip...hope it helps!

Exhaust system,1924cc fast road MGA (no replies)

fast-MG.com — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:28:15 -0700

I'm trying to spec out a fast road engine for an MGA. I don't think the MGB stuff fits. What are people here doing for a good performing exhaust with a 1924cc MGB motor, 135-145hp.:devil:

Special MGB for sale............... (2 replies)

balloonfoot — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:49:24 -0700

I am posting this on the cars for sale thread as well, but many of you have followed along on this build so I’m doing it here as well.

This is my late model RB project car and I must sell it. It was built from a 56k mile one owner Arizona rust free car.

Please read: If you live on a bad road, this car is not for you...it is very low. If you live in an area that requires smog inspections, this car is not for you....it has no smog control or could it easily be fitted. The paint is original, but it needs to be painted. If this is OK with you, read on.

This car and all its mods are fully sorted. There aren’t any little ‘quirks’ that need to be fixed.

A short (and probably incomplete) list of stuff done.

BODY:

The car has been lowered by moving the rear suspension pick up points back to the chrome bumper positions. This required extensive welding to accomplish and has been documented in numerous previous postings on the MGE. It was brought down to CB height in front by fitting a CB crossmember. The car was then lowered an additional inch all around by reversing the rear spring eyes and fitting dropped spindles with new king pins in the front. The wheels are Panasport ultra lights (EXPENSIVE) in 6x15 size with Dunlop 205/50/15 tires. New A-arms, 3/4" front bar and V8 bushings. Stock rear sway bar.

The front bumper has been reduced in weight from 48 pounds to 23 pounds by removing metal in the armature. The rear bumper has been reduced from 43 pounds to 13+ pounds by eliminating the armature altogether and fitting the bumper flush with the body.

The car has a new top, new door seals, European taillights, new carpet, new seat foams & diaphragms and seat covers in the original pattern. It has a new LE leather steering wheel. English old style Smiths gauges have been used, along with the proper 1000tpm speedometer. A CD radio as well. The windshield glass is original.

MECHANICALS:

The engine is the original block, bored .060 over and has AE pistons, std/std steel crank with tri-metal rods and mains, new billet cam in standard grind, new lifters, push rods, timing chain and gears (double row), APT flowed English big valve no smog head with new valves guides springs and rocker shaft. Idles smooth at 800rpm and pulls strong.

Rebuilt HIF carbs with new throttle shafts, floats and solid butterflies. Stainless Falcon CB exhaust system. Fidanza aluminum flywheel, AP clutch assy, rebuilt O/D transmission and a balanced driveshaft with new u-joints. All new hydraulics...NOS AP brake master, clutch master and slave, wheel cylinders, rotors, pads and shoes, and all hoses.

New sending unit in fuel tank and new SU fuel pump. New cast iron water pump and custom Wizard alloy radiator. Corvette cooling fan wired through a proper relay and mounted to the body (not to the radiator). New wiring harness and Delco 105 amp alternator.

Probably many other things that are slipping my mind, but you get the gist of it.

I think its worth $6500 as is. If you think its worth less than that...convince me, you never know.

I'll post additional pictures tomorrow.

EDIT: new steering rack as well. Driven about 3000 miles on Rallye to Reno last summer and hasn't hardly moved since.
EDIT 2: also has a new oil cooler...forget this, I'll never remember to list everything............

Mounting Air Horns (1 reply)

taskadog — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:29:17 -0700

I just ordered a set of air horns, my originals where bent up in my crash

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30097

Does anyone have any pics or ideas on where to mount them?

Phil

77 MGB Clutch, Slave cylinder replacement. FIXED! (1 reply)

trcarrell — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:59:56 -0700

Well it has been a trying two weeks. I went to take a ride a couple of weeks ago and I had no clutch. Upon inspection I found that the boot on the clutch slave cylinder was torn and it was covered in fluid. Natural assumption, it had failed. I ordered a new one off of ebay. I installed it but for the life of me I could not get it bled! Pump, bleed over and over again and all I got was air bubbles. I checked alot of post from others on the subject with the result of realizing that this was not a normal job. Some of the post mentioned using a pressure bleeder to do the job. I contacted a guy in our car club that had one. When I went to borrow it he stated that he talke to his son, who has a car repair business, and advised against it for fear of blowing out the clutch/slave cylinder cups. One of the post mentioned that he let the system sit for awhile and it bleed itself. So, I let the slave cylinder hang down for about four days. During that time the level of fluid in the clutch master cylinder went down about 3/16" of an inch. I mounted the slave cylinder tonight and presto, I have a clutch! More clutch than I had before as well. Went for a drive and it sure feels good to have my B running again!

Looking to buy a 1973 MGB Cylinder Head [San Anselmo, USA] (no replies)

ferrari1313 — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:34:05 -0700

I recently took off the head to my MGB and found that the it was cracked. Im looking to buy a used one that someone is willing to sell for under $150

Cameron

Oil pressure switch for anti run-on valve (5 replies)

chris — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:49:14 -0700

So, given that my car keeps running and people said to check the anti run-on valve, if this switch is bad, that makes the car keep running?

White Wire From Fusebox To Fuel Pump (??) Mystery (4 replies)

forestghost07 — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:53:27 -0700

Hi friends - last week I wanted to fuse the above-mentioned white wire while sorting the frightening wiring mess at the DPO-installed Facet/NAPA fuel pump (I found a household WIRE NUT ::o and bits of 120V electrical cord there!)

When I pulled the wire off the 'box the pump still clattered away :S By my diagrams (and by everyone else), that's power to the pump w/ ignition on, right? So where the heck could the pump be getting power from; I see no more wiring anomalies anywhere, w/out actually digging in the steering column again (uggh).

I ended up w/ a 15 amp circuit breaker right at the pump (pic); so far so good. Should I put this out of mind? Anyone run into this before? Thanks!

MGA 1500 (with MGB engine) stalled, won't start again (7 replies)

dantm — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:54:14 -0700

I've had my MGA (with an MGB 3-main engine) for a few weeks and I took it out today -- it ran a little rough (not bad though) when it started.

Within a mile of the house and while coming to a stop sign, the car stalled and died. It would not start again; basically it turns but won't fire.

I am looking for recommendations on how to troubleshoot this. The light on the dash 'Ignition' comes on when the key is turned, but any combination of trying to start it (with or without the choke) won't do anything.

Could it be a weak battery or is it more likely that it's a fuel problem?

Just as a side note -- the previous owner had a battery 'kill switch' behind the passenger seat; when the car is off he recommended that the switch is disengaged. However, for about 3-4 days I've left it 'on' by mistake. Regardless, the car started ok today, maybe ran a little sluggish (?) but then ran ok for ~a mile.

Any chance that it would be a weak battery that can contribute to this? Wouldn't the spark come from the alternator when the car is running and even if the battery would be weak the engine should not stall and die?

Any thoughts?

Thank you all!

Anyone going to the show in Vancouver this weekend? (1 reply)

Bill MacTavish — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:19:40 -0700

We took the train from Toronto to Vancouver to visit our daughter. Great trip!
It happens that the car show is on this Saturday.
Just wondering if anyone else will be enjoying the sights?

Froont suspension Done (5 replies)

mgbjones — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:41:09 -0700

Front suspension on the Orange Crush is finished. What an accomplishment from last night. Last night we had everything done except the top Fulcrum bolt that would not go past the shock.

Tonight repositioned a few things and wamo it is all together. Greased King Pins, lowered the car and tightened the V8 bushings.

Added new tie rod ends, king pin bushings, dust covers, cross-member pads through out, topped off the shocks and all new hardware.

I sure hope this car rides like it did when it was new.

Hot summer days...Gt runs very warm (2 replies)

britbfan — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:25:55 -0700

I love my Gt, I love driving it so much that for most days my Honda sits in the carport collecting dust. So what's wrong with this, well my biggest issue is that my car hates really hot days. I have tried almost everything to get it to run cooler- new thermostat, new radiator, checked timing, doesn't lose water so no head gasket issues, checked timing-fine, installed radiator fans, I even tried that water wetter stuff-all to no avail. Now mostly if the car is moving, it doesn't overheat, but stop at a long traffic light or worse get stuck in traffic- and watch the needle rise- now it doesn't ever get to H but when you stop the car, it is very reluctant to start again- it does but with some difficulty. Needless to say, it takes away a great deal of the pleasure when this happens and I have vowed to get to the bottom of this issue this summer. Now some have suggested an aluminum radiator, but while I am not opposed to this idea, I have a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that when this car came from the factory, it didn't overheat in traffic. I must be missing something, so please if you have any suggestions, I would love your input. Many thanks and a case of beer to anyone that nails this one.

Quick Alternator Warning Lamp Question (4 replies)

reintjes — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:56:54 -0700

Hey guys, just messing with the PO's crazy wiring. Behind the alternator warning light (on the dash), there are two wires. The white wire from the ignition switch, and what I assume is the brown/yellow field wire. My question is, when should the brown/yellow wire get power? Should it be whenever the ignition is on, as the white wire is? Vehicle is a 71 MGB. Sorry I don't understand much about electrical systems. Thanks!

1977 TVR 2500M, Needs work (1 reply)

MySoxAreRed88 — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:07:56 -0700

Hello,

I bought my 1977 TVR 2500M about 25 years ago from a friend going through financial troubles and really enjoyed driving the car. About 10 or 15 years ago I fell out of touch with keeping the car moving and it has sat in the garage ever since. The vehicle is in immaculate condition and it is time to get those wheels rolling.

Does anyone know a mechanic in the Chicago area willing to work on it?

I have struggled for the past six months to find anyone willing to take a look at it.

Help is very much appreciated,

Chris

MGB engine (on MGA vehicle) stalled, won't start again (1 reply)

dantm — Wed, 16 May 2012 22:05:49 -0700

1975 B ignition switch (no replies)

5141941 — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:10:26 -0700

How many different ignition switches went into the 75 B? The "button" isn't on this one, the center of the swich moves in and out. Is this correct or another PO "FIX"?
Thanks:S

Poor amateur. Help! (6 replies)

DevinDuval — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:25:54 -0700

Hey guys, a few months back I got my first car, my '77 MGB. Love the car just needs a shit ton of work. It's been my dream to drive an original style car that I put hard work & time into that no one else has and the the B is perfect. Catch is, I'm just a poor high school student with no experience besides the VERY basic understanding I get from the reading up I've done and the countless hours I've spent watching mechanics shows. I was wondering if anyone out here had any advice or tips & tricks they could give me, or any parts I could buy or trade for? I'm looking for pretty much anything and everything for the car. I'll post my ideas/plans/dreams for the car if that would help you help me some how aha.

Appreciate it guys!

I'm having an Orange Christmas tomorrow! (1 reply)

terreneuve — Wed, 16 May 2012 21:46:41 -0700

My Volcano VVC is arriving tomorrow from Halifax on the m/v Oceanex Sanderling!

I can't wait!!

Pictures to follow along with a full report!!

WTB - door hinges [Schodack, N.Y., USA] (3 replies)

roofinwilly — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:12:23 -0700

Need one for the drivers side or all four anything will do
E-mail ROOFINWILLY@aol.com

Not sure what it is but it says it gives a MGB 200 hp. (3 replies)

kawtoy — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:30:55 -0700

http://rochester.craigslist.org/bfs/3019472755.html

Looking for the wiper motor fuse Box (4 replies)

jparnold99 — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:08:20 -0700

Last Question for today. In inspecting my 1976 engine compartment I came across two aluminum large connectors see photo, that I could not find referenced in my Haynes MGB 1962 - 1980 repair manual. I was not able to identify the wiper motor fuse or fuse box box. Again all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
Jamie

Got my MGB home now nothing! (1 reply)

jparnold99 — Wed, 16 May 2012 17:37:23 -0700

I drove my 1976 MGB home. turned the engine off and was going over everything after about an hour wanted to start it again and dead . I checked the battery and it has tight and brand new terminals and the battery appears very new. It was in transit for about a week, but It started up pretty much right away the first time. I did not get the feeling of a weak battery. The battery is firmly bolted the negative to the steal of the frame. I checked the engine compartment for anything loose and did not see anything big. What I found was the following:

A connector with wire coming off of a newish alternator (see picture).
the main fuse box has some open pins could not find any connectors that would belong there (see Picture).

I'll probably get it towed to my local service startion, which I hate to do but it has to be inspected anyway. Any suggestions let me know.

Thanks
Jamie

Any idea what an XPAG will cost me? (no replies)

kylemorley — Wed, 16 May 2012 17:07:23 -0700

Anyone have any idea of what the going price is these days for an XPAG engine?

I may be in the market for one, but have no idea what they are worth.

converter delete 1980 mgb 16k miles show? (2 replies)

moparman1969 — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:06:06 -0700

does anybody know of anybody that makes a converter delete pipe for a 1980 mgb? id just like to keep the exhaust and be able to put the converter back on for shows, im the second owner and the car only has 16k miles and is very clean and orignal,

3 main bearing 1800 harmonic balance or pulley (1 reply)

fildog — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:03:00 -0700

Am getting ready to drop an 1800cc 3 main bearing engine into the MG ZB. Will the thicker crankshaft pulley be used or do I swap back to the original 1500cc pulley? I'm not sure if the thicker pulley will clear the cross piece. Also, in changing thej dipstick the 1800cc has a screw that is buried in the threaded spot for the old dipstick. She won"t budge.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for yu'all expertise.

MG tour gatherings in New England (6 replies)

BH Davis — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:22:29 -0700

A couple weeks ago I joined a great group of people in a MG gathering and tour of the RI coastal area. This was the first time I'd done one of these and it was just outstanding......an amazing amount of fun.

Are there any more such gatherings planned in the southern New England area? I'm in north eastern CT and would be willing to travel south to around Norwich, CT, west towards Hartford and north into central MA as well as into RI.

Thanks,
BH

What faults do backfiring normally indicate? (6 replies)

tourtelot — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:19:06 -0700

My car backfires at between 50 and 60. Rebuilt and timed distributor, points after removing a bad Pertronix, street modified cam, idles at about 800RPM; ie. car otherwise runs pretty well. May need to 1) enrichen the mixture, 2) set timing even more TDC (it's already at 20* but I have been told that sometimes the marks slip.)

Any thoughts?

D.